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Topic: Using a manual transmission with handcontrols (Read 20035 times) previous topic - next topic

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #45
I've a question: With one hand on the hand control and one on the shifter, who's steering? :hick:
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #46
I've got a few ideas on the clutch hookup including the levers I've illustrated above and a hookup with angle iron that pivots with the clutch if I can get the cable up there. I got the angle iron idea from someone but I can't remember who.

Quote from: Thunder Chicken
I've a question: With one hand on the hand control and one on the shifter, who's steering? :hick:

I'm gonna train my d!ck to handle the steering. :D

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #47
Quote from: thundergrowl

I'm gonna train my d!ck to handle the steering. :D


:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: 

I don't wanna drive that car no more ... :rollin:

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #48
real men dont need no steering wheels. Maybe if you connected the clutch level to the steering wheel somehow?
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #49
have the clutch on the shifter and throttle on the stering wheel

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #50
Quote
have the clutch on the shifter and throttle on the stering wheel

actually switch that around and that wouldnt be a bad idea. my buddy has a hand throttle control on the shifter of his wrangler for rock crawling...
:america: 1988 Thunderbird Sport, Former 4.6 DOHC T56 conversion project.

Rest of the country, Welcome to Massachusettes. Enjoy your stay.

 
Halfbreed... Mango Orange Y2K Mustang GT
FRPP complete 2000 Cobra engine swap, T56 n' junk...
~John~

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #51
A throttle on the steering wheel would be very difficult, if not impossible. Not only for installing it (how would you prevent the cable from binding when you turned the wheel), but for driving - imagine cranking the wheel from lock to lock while trying to hang onto the throttle. A clutch on the wheel would be even more difficult because it would require a lot of force to release the clutch, which would hinder steering.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #52
I finally got back at this tonight. Took out the front seat and got my huge head under the dash. :)

From what I can tell, the best place to hook up the cable will be around the peg on the clutch lever where the interlock switch connects. There's room there to rap around the cable.

The peg moves 1 inch when the clutch is press down -  the same amount of travel I have on the clutch cable.

The next problem will be to find a place on the support assy to attach the cable housing. It needs to be at the right angle to allow easy movement of the clutch.

Is there anyone here who has done the 5 speed swap? Did you have to remove the fuse panel to get at the clutch pedal? Man, there's not much room up there. I may even have to get a drill up there to attach the cable. :(

BTW: I also got the trottle cable out through the firewall but I don't have it hooked up yet. I wanted to figure out what to do with the clutch cable first.

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #53
Quote from: thundergrowl
I finally got back at this tonight.  Man, there's not much room up there.  :(

.


Ahhh you noticed that??? Now you know why I was sputtering when I installed the ABS unit...

But did ya notice ALL the nuts/bolts were in place???(OK it may have been missing a screw or two in the dash trim)

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #54
I've been thinking alot about this, ever since you first mentioned it.  This is my plan for your problem.

A throttle lever mounted on the shifter, smaller than the harley one.  Maybe a bicycle brake lever.  That would give you enough leverage to move the throttle easily with a very short throw.  The cable pull may not be as much as the gas pedals but you could rig up a bell crank setup that would increase the travel of the cable.  You still would easily be able to pull the handle. 

A solution for the clutch would be one of those shifter s for line lock or trans brakes.  You know the ones with the single button on them.  Wire that up so it controlls a large soleniod.  Maybe an expensive door popper those mini truck guys use.  Yes your clutch would be an On/Off switch but this is all I can think of aside from two levers on the shifter.  You could rig up a timer that would slowly release the soleniod, Or use a r/c sail boat servo.  Some of those things can push/pull over 100lbs.  That time release would give you a smooth release of the clutch.  If you could somehow manage two levers on the shifter you could have one of them control a potentiometer wich in turn could controll the full swing of the servo giving you full control of the clutch.

I think you will come to find out even with what I'm asuming a strong grip you will not be able to disengage the clutch with your setup.  Grip the clutch pedal arm up by the master cylinder.  I'm betting you wont be able to push it back comortably even with your full body pressing, Let alone just your wrist.  That harley lever provides some leverage but nothing like the clutch pedal.




Madd MsPaint skillz
One 88

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #55
I had considered the solenoid option as well, but as you said, the clutch would either be on or off, and this would make driving on public roads impossible. It would also be very hard on the tranny and driveline.

One thing you might be able to do, though, is rig up either an electric, hydraulic, or vacumm assist (vacuum being a remote option on your boosted car, unless you installed a vacuum pump). If you used a solenoid, for example, you could use one that is not quite strong enough to pull the clutch by itself, but you could help it with your hand lever. Put the button on the shifter as shown above, so you could activate it whenever you reached for the clutch. This would give you the benefit of being able to "meter" the clutch application so you could take off and shift smoothly with reduced effort to apply the clutch.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #56
I think what he has so far is the closest and best thing. A vacume assist, like the brake booster, is the best I can think of. I cant think of anything that would work better and would be cheaper. If you have ever tried your brakes with no vacum line on, I think that is more then the clutch pedal.

He could always just lengthen the clutch lever, and that alone would multiply the force. Its not going to be that bad if he does it right, which I think he will. Bounce any ideas you get off of us though.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #57
I haven't given up on this idea just yet!
 
I've spent hours on my back staring up at the clutch workings under the dash. I've gotten several ideas on how to hook up the clutch but there just isn't enough room under the dash to get it to work. I may have to go back to my original idea of hooking the clutch hand cable to a lever system to push the clutch.
 
I've also been thinking about a power assist system to help pull the clutch cable. I found these handcontrols that use a vacuum assist on the trottle cable for people with weak hands or get tired on long drives.

 
In the picture I can see what looks like a spherical vacuum canister, some vacuum lines, and a canister on the cable assemble that has, what looks like, connections for the vacuum lines.
 
I'm guessing the dumbdown version of how this works is - it takes vacuum from the car and puts it inside the canister on the cable which helps pull the cable.
 
I'm thinking that since this system was designed for the trottle, it won't be enough assist to significantly help the clutch. The cable would be to slight also.
 
Does anyone here understand the math envolved in designing a vacuum assist system? I'm thinking it has something to do with the diameter of the canister (or cross-sectional area) and the PSI of vacuum.

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #58
He he! look what I just found

Using a manual transmission with handcontrols

Reply #59
Quote from: thundergrowl
He he! look what I just found

WOW.. thats a slick setup...