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Topic: You need subframe connectors (Read 13889 times) previous topic - next topic

You need subframe connectors

Reply #45
Thanks for those pics of Daminc's subframe/jacking rails Strokerbird, but I was trying to stay away from having to cut the floor the way Daminc had to.  I'm just planning on installing full-length subframes made out of the same 1" by 2" box tubing a lot of people here used to make theirs.  I'm not a chassis expert, so I thought it would be a good idea to ask if the 1/8" wall box tubing I found would be strong enough.  I'm planning on using seat brackets and gusset plates to help hold the box tubing to the subframes after the tubing has been welded to the subframes.
William

You need subframe connectors

Reply #46
i'll see if i have any.. i didn't have a camera at the time. or a phone with a camera that was worth a , for that matter.. the only pics i really have are 1's my buddy took during the build
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

You need subframe connectors

Reply #47
I didn't mean to repost his pics lol. Still trying to figure out the forum. But I'm really wanting to stiffen up the car for cornering and fun driving since the only "dragstrip" we have in my area is an 1/8th mile and it's a bit of a waste of time. I like when I can make a car handle like it's on rails.

You need subframe connectors

Reply #48
I'll tell you what Stroker, if you REALLY want to lock your car up, you should think about installing frame connectors above the sub frames.  Darren (Aerocoupe) sent me some info on how to install them.  If I had the means to do it right now, I would, but I'm getting hammered with bills.
William

You need subframe connectors

Reply #49
Quote from: StrokerBird;376909
DAMINC you wouldn't happen to have measurements on your subframe connectors? I'd like to put a set together since I'm 6' and well over large and could really enjoy stiffening up my bird.
  There's a wrong measurement in the last diag brace spacing in this version, i think.... but you get the idea
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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You need subframe connectors

Reply #50
Quote from: 88 Blackbird 5.0;376938
I'll tell you what Stroker, if you REALLY want to lock your car up, you should think about installing frame connectors above the sub frames.  Darren (Aerocoupe) sent me some info on how to install them.  If I had the means to do it right now, I would, but I'm getting hammered with bills.

you talking about 'through the floor' connectors?
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

You need subframe connectors

Reply #51
No.  These go on top of your subframes.  I had never seen anything like it before.  It's supposed to be a lot stronger than just installing subframe connectors.
William

You need subframe connectors

Reply #52
interesting.. i'd like to read about such things
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

 

You need subframe connectors

Reply #53
In a nutshell, you cut the floor above the subframes and install box tubes that connect the subframes from the top.  When you've welded everything up and are done, you'll have a protrusion from the box tube that runs the length of the driver's footwell and the passenger side footwell.  That's the only drawback to this mod I canthink of.
William

You need subframe connectors

Reply #54
yeah, those are 'through the floor' subframe connectors lol
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

You need subframe connectors

Reply #55
Daminc's subframe connectors are through the floors, but they're under the subframes.  I though what he did was considered to be a traditional through the floor set up.
William

You need subframe connectors

Reply #56
what i consider 'through the floor' is anything going in from the topside, instead of underneath.. jerry's look like semi-typical connectors with the not-so-typical jacking rail supports.. i may steal a bit of his setup (sorry jerry :p ) for my capri, to make it a little more sturdy, before i take it for it's chassis certification.. i have yet to touch the jacking rail part of it
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

You need subframe connectors

Reply #57
Isn't that something?  Learn something every day.  So those ARE what guys are talking about when they mention "through the floors.". The nice thing about them, is that you can install them AFTER installing normal SFC's.  Unlike Mustangs, I think our cars can use a single, straight box tube with no bends, or welds in the middle.  It doesn't get stronger, or simpler than that.
William

You need subframe connectors

Reply #58
mine are half through.... although, I did cut the floor open in the front, to weld the inside of the 2x2 to the frame too. I didn't think just welding the outside was enough.... lol
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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You need subframe connectors

Reply #59
Quote from: 88 Blackbird 5.0;376980
Daminc's subframe connectors are through the floors, but they're under the subframes.  I though what he did was considered to be a traditional through the floor set up.

mine are half inside the front subframes. I cut them and slid them in
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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