Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Topic: Tricks to swapping out steering rack? (Read 8695 times) previous topic - next topic

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #30 – January 06, 2014, 09:50:56 PM

Quote from: Aerocoupe;426746

I just remove the rack bolts and the rack will move enough to clear the CA bolts when you need to remove them. Not a lot of effort and my bolts stayed whole.

Darren

I just replaced the rack and the control arms at the same time. Easy as pie :hick:.

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #31 – January 07, 2014, 07:04:12 PM

Jaty i know exactly what that tool does i have dun springs in many older mustangs and BOX NOVAS. But that is not how you do those springs?? It can be dun that way i guess but a spring bender clamp is the correct way. Not bashing how you did it just surprised as the method you used is OK i guess but have never seen it dun that way on a spring that has a typical ARC!!

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #32 – January 07, 2014, 07:12:46 PM

Ok as this is a safety issue here is how to separate a ball joint or tie rod end. Remove the cotter pin and nut than hit the joint here till it separates. I have been doing this for 48 years . Never use a PICKLE fork only on a joint that will not be reused. A puller is another way if you have the correct ones but in my view a waste of time and effort. A few blows with a ball pean and bingo it separates and will not harm the joint or the spindle. naturally you have to hit it so the force is controlled inward and not against the rack or it can mess the rack up but not likely. Sometimes a BFH is the answer.Here you go this is how it is dun the correct way!!!!! So once again i am passing on another one of my TRICKS i guess??? HAPPY NEW YEAR

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #33 – January 07, 2014, 07:34:46 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;426966

Ok as this is a safety issue here is how to separate a ball joint or tie rod end. Remove the cotter pin and nut than hit the joint here till it separates. I have been doing this for 48 years . Never use a PICKLE fork only on a joint that will not be reused. A puller is another way if you have the correct ones but in my view a waste of time and effort. A few blows with a ball pean and bingo it separates and will not harm the joint or the spindle. naturally you have to hit it so the force is controlled inward and not against the rack or it can mess the rack up but not likely. Sometimes a BFH is the answer.Here you go this is how it is dun the correct way!!!!! So once again i am passing on another one of my TRICKS i guess??? HAPPY NEW YEAR

this is also the method I use, from my experience if it doesnt work either get a bigger hammer or hit it harder and it WILL come apart.

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #34 – January 07, 2014, 08:40:21 PM

Thank you 88 i appreciate the feed back as i have been doing this for more years than i would like to admit!!! I am not bashing anyone with this post let me make that clear. But when someone posts a totally wrong procedure on either brakes or suspensions i will chime in as a safety issue. I am not saying the procedure was wrong as the puller is OK if the correct one is used that is a given. But logic would dictate that a pickle fork will bust up the boot seal in a flash and spread the seating cups in the tie rod ends. I have been in this business for decades and can learn from each other without getting NUTS. Thank you.

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #35 – January 10, 2014, 06:25:35 PM

i agree, sack it with a hammer but...........

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #36 – January 10, 2014, 06:45:56 PM

here you go tom,, installed tool from another angle.... cant see how this would be "incorrect" since it didnt cost me a dime and it traps the spring.

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #37 – January 10, 2014, 07:29:42 PM

Jay standars threaded rosis not very strong. But i get the idea as older fords use a similar tool. BUT i would use a torrington bearing on the mating surfaces. Also a regular J bolt spring compressor installed inside the spring bends the spring in a convex manner making it extreamly easy to install. Reason being once the A frame is dropped the upper and lower pockets are curved away from each other. Just saying.

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #38 – January 10, 2014, 07:33:29 PM

Jay here is the reason!!!

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/02/03/this-is-what-happens-when-a-coil-spring-compressor-fails/

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #39 – January 11, 2014, 12:33:28 AM

thats 5/8'' grade 8 zinc chromate threaded rod and 1/2'' gold chromate grade 8 plate steel and gold chromate grade 8 5/8'' nuts.
thats not stong enough? your goin nuckin futs~~!! (just kidding)

mines better than that pen 15eyed jbolt tool. i get it though... i just wont do it like that.. im chicken shiznit.

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #40 – January 11, 2014, 12:38:23 AM

i just watched your video,,,
with my tool that event is ***TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE*****

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #41 – January 11, 2014, 09:14:23 PM

I was just wondering how many times you have to relocate the spring with your method to install it correctly in the lower spring pocket???????? Using an internal Jay compressor is recommended by most non STRUT INSTILLATION. just saying!!

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #42 – January 11, 2014, 09:17:38 PM

I was just wondering how many times you have to relocate the spring with your method to install it correctly in the lower spring pocket???????? Remember installing it correctly in the pocket is critical for correct height. The spring must cover the witness hole in the lower A frame and sit flush with the end of the loop recess. This is very important and must be dead on. Using an internal J compressor is recommended by most non STRUT INSTILLATION. just saying!!

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #43 – January 11, 2014, 09:42:34 PM

Your compressor tool would be better with a second bit of material for thickness on one side to compensate for the spring winding. It would help keep the spring straight during compression and a straight compressed spring is safer than one that's arcing. Second, Tom is 100% on the torrington bearing under the draw nut. It'll make the job go easier and will limit wear on the tool (and you, too).

Tricks to swapping out steering rack?

Reply #44 – January 11, 2014, 10:12:52 PM

Foe you need the arc to compensate for the arc when you drop the lower a frame. That is why you use one J bolt compressor inside the spring to arc it. Then install it line up the end properly with the witness marks on the lower spring pocket and jack the spring in to the car. I have been doing this for many many years and i have never had an issue. Next time i do a set of springs i will take a video of how i do it. I am installing the suspension in my car shortly and will post the way i do it. I have seen to many springs get loose and can hurt you REAL BAD. I also have a branic system for struts. Springs can ruin your day quite easily. By the way there is no reason to use anything when removing springs. I lower the control arm and pry the spring out. naturally i chain it up!! But it is not necessary. And normally we use lowering springs that make it easier to install them when you arc them with an inside spring compressor better called a J Bolt compressor. By the way they do not make those spring compressors any more so i made a set years ago. Thanks Foe