headlights

Topic: headlights (Read 10040 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: headlights

Reply #30 – April 09, 2005, 02:34:14 AM

yeah, that'll work. I started with 60 (I think) grit and it took FOREVER to get all the scratches out but gave me a perfect lens in the end (with no more print or casting marks [the 3 lumps]). Not recommended since it took so long. Now I just use a dremel to get rid of the high points and sand from there

edit:
120 grit isn't too bad to get cleared up and will quickly cut down past the yellowed layer as I did it with my marker lights. With a new sheet of 220, it only took probably 15 minutes before I had every deep scratch out which made it easy to follow up with the other sandpapers (5 minutes)

Re: headlights

Reply #31 – April 09, 2005, 04:04:43 PM

what kind of rubbing compound, polish and wax should i use?

Re: headlights

Reply #32 – April 09, 2005, 04:06:39 PM

can i just take a peice of sandpaper n do it by hand or must it be wet sanded

Re: headlights

Reply #33 – April 10, 2005, 02:22:15 AM

it doesn't need to be wetsanded but its easier and makes sandpaper meant for it last longer

I just used the 3M rubbing compound found in pretty much every automotive store. Any rubbing compound will do. Stick with a medium or heavy cut grade since light doesn't work too well with plastic ("scratch remover"). Polishing compound isn't needed if everything's sanded and cleaned up with rubbing compound but I do it anyways just to make it look so little better. I used what little "Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze" I had left for polish and "Meguiars #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Wax" for the wax (the same items I use on the car's paint). I'm only hoping the wax will keep the lenses from clouding up again and for ease of cleaning

takes awhile to get used to using rubbing compound properly/at a decent pace but once you catch on, you use less and going over it once or twice is all thats needed. Also makes newly sprayed clearcoat look excellent (overspray) :D

Re: headlights

Reply #34 – April 10, 2005, 11:01:55 AM

I have to disagree with some of the methods you guys are using.
I think 220 grit is WAY too harsh for the plastic, and wet-sanding is a VERY good idea.

I wet-sanded the headlights on my '96 with 1500 grit only. By the time I was done, the sink water was tinged yellow.
I then followed up with several hand applications of a mild polishing compound.
Use this method before you drop to a harsher grit sandpaper, and don't sand them dry.

Re: headlights

Reply #35 – April 10, 2005, 11:31:35 AM

How long does the lens stay clear after you've buffed out the cloudiness?

Re: headlights

Reply #36 – April 10, 2005, 11:53:07 AM

Five months and they're still clear, but I wax 'em each time I wash the car.

Re: headlights

Reply #37 – April 10, 2005, 01:14:53 PM

I don't know...it might depend on the extent of the damage. My other lenses I started with 220 and moved up to 2000grit, and polished. They still had a yellow tint in areas (where the plastic is thicker to spread the light out) so I went with 60 dry but *soft*, 120 dry then wet starting pushing hard, then soft, and 220 wet on up which finally got me a perfect lens. Like I said though, starting with rougher sandpaper makes it take FOREVER to get all the scratches out. I don't know what 220grit you're looking at but my 3M wet/dry 220grit isn't that harsh and 320 barely leaves a mark.

You sure its the same plastic as on that car? I know the lenses on my bird are a lot harder than that on a family member's 99 escort.

I just don't believe 220 is too harsh to start with and really, stopping at 320 would leave with a nearly smooth lens in my experience (only waiting for rubbing compound to clear up). 600+ I had to put all my weight into to make it do anything

Re: headlights

Reply #38 – April 12, 2005, 11:25:13 PM

I just thought of another refector material. It's a little pricy but will should work great. Bare Metal Foil. It is made for models to give the real chrome look. Its made of real metal and you can polish it to look just like chrome. Here are some pics sorry if they aren't the best it's hard to get good pics of a model the sixe of a bic lighter. Any how I did the bottom chrome trim & the lers.

Re: headlights

Reply #39 – April 13, 2005, 12:24:01 AM

getting big pieces to stick is the hard part though...which is why I went with aluminum-foil like tape. Doesn't look as good as the stock reflector from a foot to two away, but now my lowbeams are as bright as my highs were before I put it on

People have thrown around the idea of foil for awhile (which could also be used to give you tinted headlights if you wanted) but finding a good way to keep it flat, while getting it to stick is tough. I'm more curious about how long it stays reflective with the bulb's heat

Short of getting a reflector cast from metal, I don't think we have many choices that'll last. Even if we could just get a metal insert that'd fit with the curves, we'd be set. I'm surprised the stock reflectors lasted as much as they did being that they're somehow painted on

Re: headlights

Reply #40 – April 13, 2005, 04:57:14 AM

Quote from: Seek

I'm surprised the stock reflectors lasted as much as they did being that they're somehow painted on

As long at the housings are sealed, the reflective coating should last. Its when mosture gets inside that it starts to deteriorate. That is why drilling holes to let the housings "breathe" is also not a good idea.

Re: headlights

Reply #41 – April 13, 2005, 09:30:45 AM

I found a product called blue magic that takes all the oxidation of clear plastic, i used it on the outside of my lenses and they got pretty close to new all i got to do now is clean the inside and seal it

Re: headlights

Reply #42 – April 13, 2005, 11:34:51 AM

Quote from: TurboCoupe50

As long at the housings are sealed, the reflective coating should last. Its when mosture gets inside that it starts to deteriorate. That is why drilling holes to let the housings "breathe" is also not a good idea.

I don't think its 100% moisture (the missing reflective surface is, where it becomes more pearlescent), but any darkening would just be from heat. I've seen both, but yes, the moisture thing is the common issue.

Last time I took my lenses apart, I had problems. I don't think I used normal silicone, but whatever it was, it held on a bit too much. The underside of the lens' lip actually cracked off due to the strength when I tried removing it. Wish I knew what I used because it sealed well, yet held a LOT better than the silicone I used before (which lasted a couple months)

Re: headlights

Reply #43 – April 13, 2005, 10:06:57 PM

Nope i'm not talking foil.I'm talking a product called Bare Metal Foil http://www.bare-metal.com/ It is made for models. Sopposed to conform to any surface. It basically foil with stick shiznit on one side. That is what my pics are of. you can polish it out to chrome.

Reply #44 – November 15, 2005, 09:44:56 PM

Bringing this thread up again, does anyone have different beam patterns on their 2 headlamps? I thought buying completely new headlights would fix it, but my "problem" still exists. The driverside headlight has a thin, wide beam, while the passenger side seems to have 3 bright beams. Driving down the road, its really noticeable with the passenger side of the road being lit up more. Both lights have ~14.3v at the plug and both are pushed in as far as they'll go.

Is this just a common thing?