Toasty 2.3

Topic: Toasty 2.3 (Read 1516 times) previous topic - next topic

Toasty 2.3

November 23, 2012, 08:38:15 AM

Well as i posted before the 2.3 Ford runs to dam TOASTY!! So i posted a way to install an aftermarket sensor in the heater hose. BUT!!!! How to wire it ??? Thought some might like to know. I read on several sites about kits for fan control and they boast they are better than SLICED BREAD!!! I say BALONEY. They are over priced and junk. They complicate the issue and the wiring normally is a NIGHTMARE. Other than a conversion from engine fan to Electric. Here is the print for the TC to bring on the main cooling fan for those interested. Get a 5 pr0ng relay and plug then remove the normally open contact wire (GREEN IN COLOR) This leaves the 2 cut through contacts on a DE-energized relay and also the relay coil wires (4 wires in total). That cut through pins of the relay is wired between pins 55 on the ecm and pin 14 on the ircm. This keeps the engine fan off as in the stock design. The ECM commands on the main fan by removing the ground from pin 14 of the IRCM. When this happens the engine fan runs. So how to trick it on early??? Wire a 5 pr0ng relay with the normally closed contacts in series with pin 14 of the IRCM. Then wire the coil side of the relay to battery pin 3-4 or 8 of the IRCM (they are all common). THen wire the other side of the coil in series with whatever sensor you choose for on and off time. You are finished. When the engine comes up to the temp of the sender you used it will break the connection on pin 14 of the IRCM commanding the fan on. The way i wired it has a double fail safe. It allows all stock functions as designed when running diagnostics with a scan tool and it also has double back up if the sensor fails or the IRCM fails to remove the ground at temp. This is a win win setup and like always my mind is always in full speed foward on simple and effective mods. Hope you like this. Good Bad what do you think????? I hate aftermarket fan controls and spending gobs of money on JUNK!!!

Here is where i mounted the relay i wired in. Nice neat and accessible for service right on the IRCM mounting bracket!!!!!. Boy wat i would give for a FORD TECH to service this vehicle and try and figure out my circuits.. D'OH!!!

Toasty 2.3

Reply #1 – November 23, 2012, 01:37:59 PM

Here's How I wired my 5.0L:

Toasty 2.3

Reply #2 – November 23, 2012, 02:25:44 PM

That works

Toasty 2.3

Reply #3 – November 23, 2012, 03:11:51 PM

2 relays because the fan switch applies ground and the clutch applies power, the second relay changes it to a ground signal so it can operate the first relay. Also, the fan relay is wired backward so that when not energized, the fan is grounded on both sides to prevent kickback if the fan were to engage whist already spinning. Being grounded on both sides prevents the motor from acting as a generator when unpowered.
Tom doesn't need this explanation, but I thought I'd get it in before somebody else pipes up about my wiring being overdone.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #4 – November 23, 2012, 04:42:09 PM

That is a good setup FOE. Some of the fans have a buffer diode installed from the factory. That circuit is a good one for sure. I like how you shunt out the motor for back EMF. That is COOL! Nice Job FOE!!!

Toasty 2.3

Reply #5 – November 23, 2012, 06:11:23 PM

Tom, why do you use another circuit? 2.3 engine has electric cooling fan from the factory. Why don't you just use another thermostatic switch with lower switching temperature, or reconnect wiring harness to your new switch?

Toasty 2.3

Reply #6 – November 23, 2012, 06:26:20 PM

The one you posted is the early one and that is exactly what i do on those. But the late model IRCM units work of the ECT. It does not have a separate thermal switch.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #7 – November 23, 2012, 09:30:03 PM

And it's also pr0ne to failure. Hell, both of the 2.3 NA Stangs I've had the e-fan didn't work, until I fixed them.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #8 – November 23, 2012, 09:54:53 PM

True and those stock senders come on to dam late. Normally around 230*. Way to hot for my liking!!

Toasty 2.3

Reply #9 – November 23, 2012, 10:19:25 PM

Thanks Tom. I still need to come up with a soft start for it, because if it comes on while sitting still, it pulls the engine down for a sec.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #10 – November 23, 2012, 10:51:08 PM

That will always happen with a load of this magnitude. Those fans draw 3X the current at start up.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #11 – November 24, 2012, 01:08:37 AM

i see your point foe, i see your not really a fan of diode or'ing but the second relay does serve a couple purposes.
i was wanting to ask what brand breaker that is because the inrush on start up certainly would trip a 30A.

in my work we use special DC breakers for a delay trip but still, 30a seems lean for that linear load. whatever works though, nice mod to both of you by the way.,, sticky worthy.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #12 – November 24, 2012, 05:42:44 AM

All the High current wiring is 12ga, and the 30A Maxi breaker is soldered into the circuit to prevent the possibility of terminal fretting in a high amp circuit. It hasn't tripped once. It's just an OE breaker I saved from a dead fuse box, but it's one of the MAXI Fuse size breakers. It's mounted to one of the fan support struts so that, should it blow, it will cool quickly by being in the flowpath of the air. I was going to also heatsink it with a couple 10mm x 10mm PC memory chip coolers and some Arctic Silver Adhesive, but I thought it unnecessary. The relays are bracketed to the shroud. I though about using a diode, but I used all the good ones I had in my accessory delay project, and I had to build the circuit from what I had on hand. Reversing the flow through the relay and having the relay ground the hot side of the fan when de-energized seemed like an acceptable alternative.

Toasty 2.3

Reply #13 – November 24, 2012, 06:54:04 AM

Foe i dont know what kind of fan you are using??? But i use fans from a condensing unit. They are equipped with a clamping diode internally. And they draw low current. I wire them with a 30A fuse with no issues. I also do BE COOL instillation and their fans come pre wired with 25A fuses. Not breakers. Regular ATC fuses nothing special. I have ATC breakers that are automatic and i also have ones that have a button on top that are resettable. Cant imagin what kind of fan you have that draws more than 360 Watts ???? But like you said the fuse is adequate. By the way you know counter EMF is not an issue with fans. Just saying. But you have a good idea with that shunt to ground circuit. Some of the fan companies say the shunt reduces the fans life. Reason is it back EMF puts a big load in the fan when it shuts down. just hashing this out. Thanks!!

Toasty 2.3

Reply #14 – November 24, 2012, 10:17:51 AM

This is a fan I repurposed from a 2005 Mustang. I adjusted the shroud a little to make it fit. The running amperage is 10 amps. And it moves a hella lot of air.