Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Somethings wrong. (Read 12916 times) previous topic - next topic

Somethings wrong.

Reply #90 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402751
On the red wire to a #1 fuel injector all I get is .69 in "accessories" and it drops to .049 when I try to start it. According to my manual #15 if for my license plate and it is working, also #13 is for my instrument panel and it is also functional (??).


I am getting a HEADACHE forget the fuses at this point !!!!!! You FINALLY tested the battery lead that comes from the EEC relay. I cant say that was an easy task for you to do as i have been asking for that several times. Now go to the EEC relay and see if you have constant battery on one side. This trouble shooting should be DUN WITH A CONVENTIONAL TEST LIGHT. Forget Ohm meter tests they are worthless. They can send you in the wrong direction. So check the relay and you are most likely going to find no battery at the relay. IS IT THEIR . I have asked this question several times. Tell me if it is THEIR!!!!

LINK L has to be checked or check pin number 1 on the ECM. If you have battery at pin number 1 on the ECM you are not commanding the EEC relay on and or it is bad. I am betting fuse link L is OPEN.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #91 –
Tom, sounds like your gonna bust a blood vessel. I still need to know which relay. Starter relay??

Somethings wrong.

Reply #92 –
The EEC relay. 
I don't know right off hand where it's located. Pin 1 of the PCM will be in the corner of the connector, and it's black with an orange stripe. I believe pin one is the upper left when you're looking directly at it with the pr0ngs down.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #93 –
Yes the EEC RELAY. I asked this question back on my post 32. That was 60 Posts back!!!

Location  Under RH Side Of I/P   

By the A pillar near the door hinge
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #94 –
If that's the case, it's right there with the PCM. Much easier, then, to just pull the relay and probe the connector than to pull the PCM. I'll get a diagram with a pinout up.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #95 –
In this cell the fuse link is blue, but in Power Distribution, it's red.  Same size in either case, look for both, who know which it will really be.  A 20GA fuse link won't take much.
X

Somethings wrong.

Reply #96 –
i hate to quote myself but post 33,, step 2.

when you turn the key off, do you hear a click after a couple seconds/????????????

also, have you taken a look at the EVTM for the 86 in my diy link,, it may match up better.
as for pins to the eec, its right there,, a big square box that continues over to other pages called the ECA.


now ,, do you hear a click or not after you turn off the key
Do you even hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key.  You said you smelled fuel in response to my post 33 so i actually assumed the computer was triggering injectors.  if you smell fuel building  up then obviously the computer relay is picking the computer to come on,, and then the computer is picking the fuel pump relay to power up as well.

its ok if we are going backwards though,, either way its progress.

one thing i did do was pm you with my ph# to talk through some of this basic stuff to help more quickly pinpoint .. did not hear from you but what i planned to do is post our results so we could speed this up based on that call.

i am still available as i am off all this week so buzz me at 304 772 3411 if you want to get this broke up into manageable chunks.  it wont take but at the most an hour to muddle through some basic points,, maybe quicker if your all un buttoned and harnesses are available for testing.


glad  you see no power on the red wire of the injectors,, this is progress !  closer to the problem.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #97 –
Jay / Foe after he finds the blown fuse link ????? Then he has to find out why it BLEW. That will be interesting.

Not sure about this does a 1996 have a SES LIGHT. Memory seems to say NO. If it does does it come on when KEYED. Even if it has one it wont light because he has no battery at the ECM!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #98 –
Tom, not to pick on you, but you do mean 1986? jcassit, I will be calling you, thanks for the offer! Obviously, you guy's are up and running on the east coast before I am. Tom, sorry I'm slow at this, like I said this is my most modern car. Never dealt with a ECM before, it's all new to me. I promise you guy's I want to get through this and fix the problem also! But, I'm leaning a lot that I never knew and to me that is just as valuable! Well, I better get started before Tom decides to come over here and kick me in the butt (lol). ONLY JOKING, Tom!
 

Somethings wrong.

Reply #99 –
jcassity,
            I turn the ignition switch on and off and YES I hear a "click". That must be the relay, it is coming from the same area as the EEC. I have the cover off, so I can get to it. Now I will go and check voltage on it.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #100 –
good news!!!!!!!!

ok

now get yourself a little finishing nail or a paper clip, locate a plastic cap that on the fuel delivery line, it will be a fitting used to test fuel presure.

two ransom tests......
1Key your ignition switch on then off waiting for the click you hear , then key it on / off again... then quickly go up to the fitting and push in the little pin.
does a bunch of fuel spurt out?  ~ if yes= this means the pump is pumping but the volume is uknown so at best lets assume fuel is getting where its suppose to go at the right volume

2next,
follow that same silver looking line and along it you will find a round device mounted to the fuel rail.
there is a vac line attached at the top.... remove it and tell us...........  Is there moisture inside the vac line?



Since you mentioned lack of power on the red wire of the injectors , double check that again please.
Normally we rig up a small light bulb with socket and wire so we can plug each wire into the fuel injector connector.
Next unplug distributor center plug wire and insert a spark plug  and lay it off to the side over the fender well outside the car (protect as required),, this prevents your engine from starting but keeps the functionality of the process in tact for the next step
Next we go up to the ignition switch and crank the engine over and the little bulb will blink telling us the computer is deliering the ground signal to the injector.
(notice how the computer is controlling the ground leg of the injectors only!!  if it controlled power delivery , it would have to be the size of your old VCR probably.
If you have a light that blinks= report back (this is the NOID TEST tom spoke of)
If you dont have a light, then use that same bulb or a test light, attach one end to engine ground and the other to the red wire of the injector harness connector, with your key "ON" you should have a constant light.= report back~your previous meter test indicated you had no power at the injector harness.



what i am leading up to is two things.....

A= fuse link or broken / unplugged wire connector at the "salt and Pepper" connectors to the rear of the upper intake
>>>it is not uncommon for some connectors to be damaged in such a way that a conductor can back out of the connector because the internal retainer clip is broke.
Your wiper motor connector is a good example of this type of connector...so is your ign sw, instrument cluster and various other connectors.

or

B= you have unfortunatly blown your TFI module (device on the side of the distributor) ~go back to where i posted the test steps to see power "IN" and power "OUT" of the TFI.

***as a note, you never undo the yellow little two wire shorting plug with the engine running, some say and others insist this will help damage your TFI.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #101 –
With the car keyed, I have no power to pin #1. I also do not hear my fuel pump.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #102 –
jcassity,
            About a month ago I bent and broke that test fitting on my fuel rail and I replaced it with a bolt. I went out side to see if I could take the bolt off, but it's buried.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #103 –
My fuel pressure regulator is dry.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #104 –
I took the coil wire off and hooked up my test light to pos. and neg. of fuel injector #1 and turned to motor over and got no light. I put one wire on the pos. and grounded the other to the engine, turned it over and no light.