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Topic: Battery relocation (Read 7518 times) previous topic - next topic

Battery relocation

Reply #15 –
Well RADIO NOISE is RF. And  not from the battery . RF is very bad for electronic cars.  WHAT AM I MISSING HERE ????? The Body of the car is how it is DUN even by the OEM guys. Check out some cars that have trunk battery's from the manufacturer. Explain why having a seperate ground cable running the entire length of the car is better than using the entire CAR???
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #16 –
FOE please explain further your theory on this RADIO NOISE THING. Radio NOISE is as i explained RF. Normally from the ALT or the Ignition system. If you ground at the back of the car why in the world would you need a ground all the way back from the engine to the trunk battery???? Please explain your theory !!! Thanks
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #17 –
Radio noise is usually related to grounding problems, such as would create interference along the ground path. This causes radio noise because the antenna is grounded (usually, excluding glass mounted antenna grids and mini masts that sit on top of satellite antennae).  Lincoln LS and last gen T-Bird have trunk mounted batteries, both run ground through the body, but use more than a usual amount of diodes to stop kick-back as well as lots and lots of shielding throughout the electrical system (all networks, low level amp feeds, speaker wires, CAN connected module grounds and crash sensors). They also run 2 positive cables to the front, one to the starter terminal (which also serves as the junction to the alternator, hence Ford refers to it as dirty power) and the other to the central junction box as a jumping off point for the rest of the electrical system.  I believe they're both 2 AWG. You do not want to chase electrical gremlins in an LS, serves us right for sharing with Jaguar.  My fear of using the body as the sole ground path comes from knowing all the potential ground problems an old car can be hiding between the trunk and the engine bay.  Tom, on your restorations and hot rods everything has been gone over, on most anybody else's car that's not the case, and it's these unknowns that cause me to think about a main ground to the engine.
 

Battery relocation

Reply #19 –
Grounds, in an of themselves are not the cause of the RF interference heard through a sound system.  Improper RF shielding within the sound systems and unfiltered power feeds are the root cause.  I am with Tom here, with regard to the chassis ground.  If one were to look closely, our cars get their battery ground from the chassis directly or to the block and then to the chassis. This is generally the case with most unit body cars, such as ours.  When dealing with either a framed car or one with rubber isolated subframes, extra steps must be taken to ensure that the chassis and the body of the car at at the same ground potential, usually through braided grounding straps.

Battery relocation

Reply #20 –
Battery relocation is mainly for traction. Puts weight over the wheels without adding weight to the car. It's done on the right side because that is the wheel that tries to spin, especially on cars without limited slip of some sort. I suppose it could help weight distribution as well. I have thought about doing it at one time. My concern was not the ground, but the long cable for the positive. Has to be a lot of currnent loss. Lots of people do it. Guess it just takes a really thick cable.

Battery relocation

Reply #21 –
Not really CHROME. I have a number 2 cable on the MIDNIGHTER. And i have absolutely no issues with it. On my Firebirds Mustangs and Camaros i use a 2/0 wire. When you use cables of this size their is literally no voltage drop.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #22 –
I measured my positive cable at about 17" long. Moving my battery to the back, I will probably need at least a 8'-10' cable. That is quite a stretch! Personally I would want to stay away from moving the starter relay closer, even if it would change up cable lengths. Tom's picture show two optima batteries, but he say's you only need one. I think I'm going to have to have a better look at the PRO's and CON's before I decide if it's worth it. A lot of food for thought. Thanks!

Battery relocation

Reply #23 –
OOPS! Guess I was typing when I should have been reading. Ok, so if I move my battery to the back and if I ever need a jump, I'm going to probably have to do some explaining...

Battery relocation

Reply #25 –
86 NEED A JUMP????? How EMBARRASSING TO SAY THE LEAST!!!!! 86 a pos post under the hood. YUCKIE DUCKIE. That is over designing and grossly UGLY!!!! Pop the trunk and dazzle the NOVICE!!!!

86 once again the dual battery's were installed for show. And just to be different. Everyone has jumped on the trunk mount battery thing. So as i have to be different and come up with things out of the norm i built a dual battery setup. Just an attention getter. A single battery will work just fine. But then again 1700 CCA is ASSUME !!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #26 –
Tom,
      I never know when my Optima is going to die. Speaking of novice's... you lost me on the 1700 CCA, please explain.

Battery relocation

Reply #28 –
Got ya.

Battery relocation

Reply #29 –
I'm getting ready to relocate my battery to the trunk, only I'm gonna relocate the Solenoid with it as well to keep the positive battery cable short. Then, running the ALT charge wire directly to the battery in the trunk, and a new 4ga wire from the Solenoid to the Starter, running through the interior. Since the 2ga ALT charge wire probably will get hot while having 130amps pushed through it, would it be best to run that wire under the car instead of through the interior?; where it could possibly take out other wires if it ever melts down.