Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Battery relocation (Read 7500 times) previous topic - next topic

Battery relocation

Reply #45 –
Oh, I forgot to ask Tom, is that 18' of hose you use to protect the positive cable to the solenoid? Looks good!

Battery relocation

Reply #46 –
Mostly makes sense, except that as far as I know, there are no negative cables attached to any of the solenoids.  I'll post a diagram with what I think you're talking about and you can tell me what I've got that's different from what you're saying.

Battery relocation

Reply #47 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;398775
CHROME look at the positive cable!!! Protected as i invented this 45 years ago. You have to protect the pos cable and route it safely. Normally on full frame cars i install it inside the frame. On Monolithic cars i normally run it inside the car. Either way the POS cable has to be protected. By the way that cable is a 2/0 and the ground is a 3/0

Looks good Tom. I wasn't trying to argue or anything. I was just saying what I would do. I agree with everything you have posted on this. Putting the cable in a rubber hose is a great idea.

Battery relocation

Reply #48 –
Ok, stock vs. my suggestion. 
What I suggest uses the least amount of large cable and uses much of what you already have.  The factory starter cable stays only it moves from one solenoid post to the other, and attaches to the large post on a mini starter, you add a 12ga wire from the solenoid stud you moved the starter cable off of to the small post (or tab) on the mini starter.  You route the new battery cable from the trunk to the large post of the starter (where the stock cable is now also), and you move your alternator output cable from the main solenoid to the large post of the starter (where the battery cable and the stock starter cable are at). 
Done. 
The battery now makes it's engine bay junction at the starter (resulting in a shorter cable) the alternator cable is connected more directly to the battery, and power goes up the the old junction at the old solenoid, feeding the rest of the car. Minimal changes.  If anyone can point out errors in this method, please feel free, but be nice because we're trying to help somebody, not bash each other.

XX

Battery relocation

Reply #49 –
Thanks Chrome i know that is what you meant. No Worry's.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #50 –
FOE i cant figure out what he means about the GROUND AT THE SOLENOID!!!!! Their is none???? Naturally the inherent ground when it is screwed to the BODY OF THE CAR for the pull in coil section of the solenoid.  Better make a schematic for him as to the proper HOOK UP!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #52 –
Sorry guy's I was outside hooking up my starter. I haven't stated moving my battery yet, I need more cable. Starter solenoid has two bolts one at each side and a small one between them where I hook up my starter positive (10 gauge). My solenoid is in the stock position, mounted on the left side next to the battery. On the solenoid post closest to the battery is where I hook up the positive battery connector and my wire to my MSD box. On the other side of the solenoid relay are the 3ea. black wires. One large goes to the engine block one to the alternator, and the other (I think) goes to instruments. The large wire on my starter goes to the negative post on my battery. That's the way my car has always been set up. I haven't had time to look over Foe's schematic, I will do that now. Thanks!

Battery relocation

Reply #53 –
Guys, tell me if I'm wrong... It looks like my car has the alternator hooked up to starter relay (10 gauge positive), and your schematic has it hooked up to the starter . Also, your negative battery post goes straight to the chassis, mine goes straight to the starter.

Battery relocation

Reply #54 –
I'm trying to appease the NHRA, so they will let me run my car at the 1/4mi track we have here. Otherwise I wouldn't care. I think 4ga will be fine for the starter, since it will never be a continuous usage. It only runs for about 1.5 seconds before the engine fires up. If the motor doesn't fire up within 5 seconds of cranking, I always know to stop cranking anyway, because something is wrong. This is a 2.3T with a n/a head on it resulting in 9:1 compression, it's not that hard to turn over. I could only see the 4ga wire overheating if you are cranking over and over for 5-10 minutes or more at a time, which I will never do. I'm also gonna run a 2ga Negative ground cable directly from the battery to the stock engine block ground point. Not interested in having a shiznitload of radio interference to deal with, by taking the easy way out there.

Battery relocation

Reply #55 –
@86, In the first diagram it shows that the battery grounds to the body and to the engine. The main ground can be anywhere on the engine, out of curiosity, what engine do you have? I assumed you had a 5.0 when I posted diagrams, and I know that the 3.8 and 5.0 cars have the starter on the opposite side of the car from the battery, but if you have a 2.3 we could be on different pages here.

Battery relocation

Reply #56 –
BOTTOM LINE a 4 gauge cable of that length is way to small.  Why would anyone use a 4 gauge cable when a number one cable is a few bucks more to buy. Once again even with a 2.3 i use a number 2 gauge and that is marginal.  Now if you are using welding cable that is a little different. Welding cable can handle more current because it has finer strands of wire to make it a number 4 compared to automotive or marine cable. Just saying.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #57 –
I personally am convinced on the issue of using #2 & #3 gauge wire. I would feel safer that way. Foe, my car has a 5.0 engine, but you schematic looks different from how my car is set up. Maybe they did it differently at the Van puppies plant where my car is from. I do know it's been running well for 26 years with no electrical problems. I will probably set my car up just like it is because I am not going to change anything except the battery location and gauge of wire. I will have more grounds than is probably necessary, but that's alright. #2 gauge from the positive battery terminal to starter, and #3 gauge for grounds. Don't worry, I will let you guy's know when I start that project, it should be soon. Thanks!

Battery relocation

Reply #58 –
#3 NEVER HEARD OF IT ?????? dID YOU MAKE A TYPO. i AM THINKING YOU MEAN #4 ???
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Battery relocation

Reply #59 –
I think he was referring to 02 and 03.  Give the guy a break, it sounds like he is on a steeeep learning curve.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp