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Topic: H.O. swap about to commence (Read 14155 times) previous topic - next topic

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #60 –
Are you using the same torque converter? or upgrading?
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #61 –
I'm going to be using the same converter.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #62 –
Ok guys since you been gone I have taken 2 steps forward, 3 steps back and then 4 steps forward again. We started to put the engine in and get married up to the transmission. We pushed, pulled, wiggled, cussed, spit, and shook our fists at it and could not get the engine to line up with the transmission.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #63 –
We knew that something wasn't right so I got another friend that has more experience with automatic transmissions to help us out. He came and took a look at and seen that the machine shop had failed to remove the pilot bearing from the rear of the engine. So we had to pull the engine back out and get that pilot bearing removed. We was then able to put the engine back in and get it hooked up to the transmission. Unfortunately all this has eat up about two weeks of time.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #64 –
At least it was just removing a pilot bearing and nothing bad. You lost some time,but now you're on your way. Nice looking engine. What kind of exhaust are you installing? Are those factory Mustang headers?
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #65 –
They are Flowtech headers. Had to remove the driver's side header so we would have more wiggle room during the installation. I am going to have 2 1/2 inch exhaust run with an x pipe.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #66 –
Question. For those of you that have switched to headers, did you have to add extensions to your 02 sensor harness? I went ahead and ordered a set from Summit just in case.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #67 –
Another question. Should the torque convertor nuts be torqued to a certain specification. I have them tight enough that it spins the flywheel when I try tighten them more.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #68 –
I made extension harnesses for my O2 sensoors and there is an actual torque spec on the converter ....but I dont ever recall actually using it:hick: ....lol
Fox-less at the moment

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #69 –
Quote from: Slinky;340828
Another question. Should the torque convertor nuts be torqued to a certain specification. I have them tight enough that it spins the flywheel when I try tighten them more.


"Secure the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts and tighten them to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-40 Nm)."

I usually put a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar on the crank pulley to stop the engine from turning.  Sometimes I use a pair of vicegrips on the flexplate through the starter hole (when I am alone).

Get a login at Autozone for the repair guides.  Or pick up a mustang or thunderbird book at a local halfprice books.

I also use threadlocker (Blue) on them because I really don't want those puppies coming loose.

Complete procedure:
Quote
To install:
21.   Tighten the converter drain plug to 20-28 ft. lbs. (27-38 Nm).
22.   Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
23.   With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
24.   Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.

Be sure to lubricate the pilot bushing.
25.   Align the yellow balancing marks on converter and flywheel on models with the 8-302 engine.
26.   Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
27.   Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-67 Nm). Make sure that the vacuum tube retaining clips are properly positioned.
28.   Remove the safety chain from around the transmission.
29.   Install a new O-ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the transmission case and secure the tube to the engine with the attaching bolts.
30.   Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing.
31.   Connect the oil cooler lines to the right side of the transmission case.
32.   Position the crossmember on the side supports. Position the rear mount on the crossmember and install the attaching bolt and nut.
33.   Secure the engine rear support to the extension housing and tighten the bolts to 35-40 ft. lbs. (47-54 Nm).
34.   Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
35.   Secure the crossmember to the side supports with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 35-40 ft. lbs. (47-54 Nm).
36.   Position the bellcrank to the converter housing and install the two attaching bolts.
37.   Connect the TV linkage rod to the transmission TV lever. Connect the manual linkage rod to the manual lever at the transmission.
38.   Secure the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts and tighten them to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-40 Nm).
39.   Install the converter housing access cover and secure it with the attaching bolts.
40.   Secure the starter motor in place with the attaching bolts. Connect the cable to the terminal on the starter. Connect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
41.   Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle.
42.   Adjust the shift linkage as required.
43.   Adjust throttle linkage.
44.   Lower the vehicle.
45.   Fill the transmission to the correct level with Dexron®II or Mercon® fluid. Start the engine and shift the transmission to all ranges, then recheck the fluid level.
My car is a gravity hybrid.  The gasoline engine gets me up the hills, and gravity gets me down.
 

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #70 –
Thanks!

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #71 –
I've got all my accessories back on and most of the wiring harness. I have run into a problem getting my header to fit on the driver's side. The header keeps bottoming out on the motor mount. I think I'm going to have to dimple the header to get clearance. I welcome advice with this.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #72 –
Take a bigass pry bar and bend the $hiz out of the hoop for the mount.  Bend it as close to the K-Member as you can.  Mine clears great now.
My car is a gravity hybrid.  The gasoline engine gets me up the hills, and gravity gets me down.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #73 –
I had to do the same on my old cougar  - put a little dent in on the driver's side so the bolts would line up on the head. Do you have a floor shifter or is your car column shift? If it's column shift you will have to grind the horizontal linkage rod down a little bit to clear one of the bolts on the header.

And I will be the one to say it.......................


[SIZE="1"]What's with the Fram oil filter??? [/SIZE]
FOXLESS!!

1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #74 –
I used a BA hammer and bent the hoop out of the way as well.No need to bend up a good header.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..