H.O. swap about to commence

Topic: H.O. swap about to commence (Read 13220 times) previous topic - next topic

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #75 – November 11, 2010, 10:23:08 AM

Ummmm. Is there something wrong with Fram oil filters? Other than the ugly ass chevy motor orange color?

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #76 – November 11, 2010, 10:24:13 AM

Oh and I do have the column shifter.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #77 – November 11, 2010, 10:26:54 AM

Fram works,but is by no means a great filter. I use Mobil 1 and Ford filters personally.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #78 – November 11, 2010, 10:30:55 AM

Quote from: Slinky;341288

Oh and I do have the column shifter.

Do a quick search on headers and the shifter linkage. I was using stock Mustang shorties, and I had to grind the rod. Not sure about your Flowtech's but it would be a good idea to read up on it.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #79 – November 11, 2010, 11:34:33 AM

There's an easy way around grinding the column linkage. Just remove the stud on the header that interferes with the linkage and instead use a nut and bolt in it's place. It's worked fine for me. I have no leaks and can get the shifter to all gears (which is fun since my valve body allows for fully manual as well as automatic shifting).

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #80 – November 11, 2010, 12:26:36 PM

Fram=suck. They used to have issues with coming apart, not sure if they still do. Motorcraft filters are made by Wix I believe, and are cheaper than Fram, at least by Wal Mart's prices. Plus they say Ford on 'em ;-)

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #81 – November 13, 2010, 05:16:37 PM

We got a lot of little things done today. We got the starter back on, the transmission linkages hooked back up, radiator hoses hooked up, we had to dimple the driver's side header and remove the lower stud from the header and got it hooked up. I got the H.O. computer plugged in but not installed in the kick panel. I need to know if there is a trick to getting that computer back in there and hooked up. If I put the computer up in the kick panel first I can't get the plug lined up to fit in because there's so little slack in the harness that won't fit properly. I haven't tried getting the computer back in with hooking the harness up first because I just don't think it's going to fit. it just seems like I need more slack with the harness.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #82 – November 13, 2010, 05:21:20 PM

Oh I forgot to mention that I had to order my heater coil hoses because no one around here had them in stock. They will be here on Monday and hopefully we will then be able to complete the install. That is the only thing holding us up at this point. Hopefully we will be able to get her fired up Monday night.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #83 – November 13, 2010, 06:57:59 PM

The local parts store didn't have heater core hoses for the Sport either,so,I bought some for an '89 Mustang GT. They had those,.....and they are the same thing.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #84 – November 13, 2010, 10:33:11 PM

Had to order mine from Late Model Restoration Supply out of Texas.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #85 – November 13, 2010, 11:22:09 PM

Hey I was just sitting around thinking.... I'm not sure that have my starter solenoid wired up correctly. Can you guys send me a pic of your solenoid? And where does the little pig tail thing on negative cable go?

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #86 – November 13, 2010, 11:52:51 PM

I know all the wires that have fuse links go on the positive side as well as the cable that runs to the starter. On mine, the only thing on the other side of the solenoid is the big ground wire.

Little pigtail on the negative battery cable? Can you post a picture?

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #87 – November 15, 2010, 10:10:35 AM

If you are running a standard starter then you should have the 4 ga. cable from the Battery + and all of the other wires on one side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid should have the 4 ga. wire that goes to the starter itself.

If you are running a high torque mini-starter then you should have the 4 ga. cable from the Battery +, the large 4 ga. cable to the starter, and all the other wires on one side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid will have the smaller (typically 10 ga.) wire that goes to the mini-starter. It is kind of redundant to have two solenoids but for our cars it is the easiest way to wire in a mini-starter.

There is usually a light blue with a red stripe wire that is connected to the solenoid which comes from the ignition module under the steering column. This is what energizes the solenoid when the key is turned to start the car.

On my '83 the pig tail was connected to the ground that wend to the EEC-III processor. I found this out when the car would not run and had to take it to a shop only to find out this connection had corroded so badly that it no longer provided a good connection. Two cuts and a butt splice and the car was running.

Darren

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #88 – November 15, 2010, 10:24:13 PM

We got just about everything hooked up tonight. We got the hoses hooked back up, the fan on, the belt back on, the distributor set in, and the spark plug wires run. We had to stop because we were short two bolts for the upper intake because we bent a couple of them using them with the cherry picker. Not a big deal because I had a few extra back at my house. We also need a gasket for the throttle body, but all the auto parts stores are already closed.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #89 – November 15, 2010, 10:27:20 PM

Here are some photos of the negative wire pig tail that I was talking about. I think I have it hooked up right going to the fender and the starter cable going to the other side of the solenoid.