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Topic: H.O. swap about to commence (Read 14111 times) previous topic - next topic

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #45 –
What converter are you talking about?

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #46 –
torque converter.
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***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
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5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #47 –
Quote from: daminc;339452
torque converter.


Lol.

I would replace your transmission input shaft seal or at least inspect it carefully.  Can be done pretty easy.  Sucks to do all that work and have a leaky trans when your done.
My car is a gravity hybrid.  The gasoline engine gets me up the hills, and gravity gets me down.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #48 –
Quote from: hypostang;339418
Just out of curiosity , why did you remove the engine with the converter attached ?

Yep bad move, if the engine didn't pull straight out, the hub on the converter likely damaged the front bushing in the transmission...

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #49 –
I wasn't aware that you could detach the torque converter from the fly wheel without removeing the engine first. How would you reach the bolts?

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #50 –
You remove the lower inspection plate and remove the nuts , you do have turn the engine over to get to all the all of them though.
 It is a tight fit getting a wrench in there .
Fox-less at the moment

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #51 –
I hope you don't try putting it back in the opposite the way you took it out!, I think your goin to learn something?. Any chance you looked at a manual?, You caused more headaches for your self than you needed to do. You will learn. Your pics are good, Take some more on the redo. Ask some one, There's help here someone will  guide you the right way.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +
 

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #52 –
O.K. this is where our lack of experience with automatic transmissions starts showing it's ugly nose. But this is also where having you guys to help out is a great resource.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #53 –
I do have to ask,why is the engine being pulled? also where in the states do you live?
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #54 –
Swapping out the old S.O. engine for a H.O. engine. I live in North Carolina.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #55 –
What part of NC?  I'm near Charlotte and would love to come see the swap!

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #56 –
Asheboro.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #57 –
Yeah, if you know where you can get another good AOD for cheap, I'd be grabbing it. Would've also avoided all the ATF everywhere by leaving the t/c.

I ruined a trans at the junkyard, I was separating a 3.0 and trans from a Taurus, took the fast, easy way, pulled the trans off and left the convertor...the boss wasn't happy. Neither was I, after the customer brought the car back that I swapped that same trans into...with a kick-ass front seal leak. The labor to replace said trans was free....meaning I didn't get paid to fix my f*ckup. :hick:

After that, I spent the extra 10 minutes and took out the 4 bolts, and left the converter on the input, lol

I'm not bustin' your balls, I've been there. Hopefully, you got lucky. :bowdown:

When you take the bolts out (or tighten them per reassembly) use a pry bar, wedged in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel (and engine) from turning as you tighten/loosen the bolts. You'll have to use a wrench, and there's not a lot of room, but it's the best way unless you love replacing your AOD. That, and you'll never get the converter seated correctly to drive the pump if you stab it all back in there opposite of how you pulled it. ;)
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #58 –
Got a little work done today. We ran into a snag with one of the torque converter nuts was almost stripped off. Had to take a chisel to it to get it off. I removed most of the brackets from the old engine so now I've got to get them cleaned up to go back on the new engine. We got the new engine on the engine stand and got the headers attached.

H.O. swap about to commence

Reply #59 –
You're getting there......one piece at a time.That's how I did it.I mounted the short block on the stand and started building on it until I finally had a quality engine,that also looked pretty sweet.Keep it up. I went a completely different look,but,I have always liked the factory Ford gray.Odd but true.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..