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Topic: Grabbing Pavement (Read 6580 times) previous topic - next topic

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #15 –
So you've got a stock 5.0 and you're going to put 4.10s and a mini spool in the rear? :wtf:
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #16 –
yep. Trust me ive seen this trick done before, lol he had everyone thinking he was really fast before he was REALLY fast. Ur talking a quick 1/8 mile running like a corvette or something. and when the engine gets souped. then look out.

I honestly dont know where to start with the engine though.... Heads? Boaring like yours? Intake like yours? idk?

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #17 –
If you're gonna drive it on the street...avoid the mini-spool...

Get a Traction Lok.

Also, I'd probably go no more then 3.73 gears. Until you get a good engine built than can handle higher rpm's, the bigger gears will just be a waste of time, money, and words typing about it...all they'll do with stock-sized tires is push your power band up a few hundred rpm...and with a stock HO, you don't want that. If you have an SO, it'll be even more silly.

Corvettes and 1/8 mile?

That's about like Ferrari's and gravel roads :hick:

Get good tires first, learn to launch with stock power...then start adding goodies, and the like.

Quad shocks are what you refer to...unless you're laying down more than 250 pound feet of torque, I wouldn't worry about that yet.

Get some TC sway bars, good bushings (not stock), and new shocks/struts, and you'll feel like you're in a whole new car.
Throw some TC springs under there while you're at it.
That's a good starting point.

Just don't do like I did, and do the rear stuff first...made the front disastrously loose. In fact, I'd probably put the front bar in, and learn the car, then the rear, and get a feel for how each piece changes the balance. Better to "feel it out" with low power, than to have a lot of horses on tap and learn it.

If you want a rear TC bar, I've got one I'll let go really cheap...I may have a front bar as well-I need to look to verify though.

But really, if you can't get traction now, tires ARE the first logical improvement.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #18 –
isnt a boar some type of wild animal?
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #19 –
A mini spool is fun for the first five minutes, but then as you try to navigate the parking lot and you can't make a turn without chirping the tires (and wreaking havoc on you rear axles and carrier) you start to think this might not have been the best decision.


If your looking for advice you are at the right place these guys have had years of prctice building these cars. But if you have already made up your mind that your going to do whatever you want to do no matter what anyone else says. Then that is your decision to make.

Either way I wish you the best luck you can have with your ride :D.
...and there was light!
 

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #20 –
Well i have to say yes in my day i did light to light racing but i quit that awhile ago. So please take it to the local track. Thats the best place for racing not side streets! Im sure we all would like to see ya around here for a few 10 or so yrs so please take it to the track. you could kill yourself let alone someone elts if you lose control of the car.
2001 Buick Regal LS (DD):hick:

Got that fox rash again!

-Resident smartass! :ies:

- Don't listen to the naysayers. For every person who actually helps with your project there will be 10 who will discourage you all the while thinking that they are helping. 99% of all people have good intentions. That doesn't make them right.- XR7 Dave - SCCOA.Com

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #21 –
well My dad is the one influencing me and he is used to circle dirt track racing, and a good friend of ours told me that even if you cant afford the big stuff yet, if u want that little extra push off the line to make people THINK you have it, get some gear under that ford! lol i just said mini spool because i thought they converted it to posi-trac....

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #22 –
Full locker and don't look back.

To hell with a mini spool or a spool unless it's a dedicated track car that sees almost zero street duty.
Too much gear is worthless on a motor that won't do much past 4500 RPM.

CHE makes some VERY good control arms for these cars and they are worth 10X the investment IMHO.

Quote
Just don't do like I did, and do the rear stuff first...made the front disastrously loose. In fact, I'd probably put the front bar in, and learn the car, then the rear, and get a feel for how each piece changes the balance. Better to "feel it out" with low power, than to have a lot of horses on tap and learn it.

Big bar in back + little bar up front makes for oversteer hijinks in parking lots :hick:
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #23 –
I don't want anyone to think the car is fast if it isn't. That's for posers.I'd rather have people think the Sport isn't fast....when it really is.Circle track stuff isn't always great on the street in a daily driver.It is probably a good idea for you to do a lot of studying and learning about these cars,and what actually works well.People here have had a lot of experience with these cars,and know what works,and what doesn't.Learn from other people's mistakes so you don't make the same mistakes and waste time and money on useless "upgrades".If you plan on doing an H.O upgrade,and suspension upgrades,I'd quit thinking about how to make the current drivetrain "appear" to be quicker,and save the money and do it right the first time.Listen to what people are saying.As I stated above,there's a lot of experience here.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #24 –
We got a young one trying to learn.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #25 –
We all have to start somewhere.....hopefully not the hard way.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #26 –
Why would anybody want their car to "appear" fast when it isn't? You'll still lose no matter what you race against with a stock motor.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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Grabbing Pavement

Reply #27 –
The Sport has layed the smackdown on quite a few local Stangs because she looks nice,but not necessarily fast.I don't want to advertise it as a fast car.It's a lot of fun to see their faces ...Priceless. LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

snow tires

Reply #28 –
first of all, there isn't much difference in hardness between brands:
snow tires have more void (space between lugs) so there is actually
less rubber touching the pavement. take a durometer (hardness
tester) and measure hardness between brands, there isn't nearly 1-2 points difference. tread blocks dictate traction, the more sipes:
more biting edges in wet or snow, the best dry tires have less sipes
or cuts in the tread blocks. best advise: weigh the car, then set air
accordingly - tire baron

Grabbing Pavement

Reply #29 –
Quote from: daminc;314686
Why would anybody want their car to "appear" fast when it isn't? You'll still lose no matter what you race against with a stock motor.


Because he's 16 yrs old, maybe??
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast