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Topic: Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. (Read 8388 times) previous topic - next topic

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #60 –
Quote from: odie12372;278588
What's the chances that the fuel pressure regulator is going bad..... 22yrs. old 210,000 miles.. I have a new one ready for installation.. just haven't had the time to do it..... what's it's purpose anyway? So the injectors don't have to much fuel?


9.5 times out of 10 if the fpr is bad,, the rubber diaphram inside will allow fuel to be sucked into the vac line that hooks to it.

shut off car after running
remove fpr vac line
smell / look for fuel in the line.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #61 –
Ok, this makes no sense... Yesterday... I did the fuel pressure test part2..... It was rather hot outside... And it acted up.... Today I drove 20-25 miles... The car cooled off for a while I did a side job.... When I got back in it to drive it home.... This was around noon.... The heat index hear in SC was around 102 degree's .... It ran fine all the way home... No acting up... About to drive me nuts...
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #62 –
Do I have to remove the intake plenom to get to the fuel pressure regulator? I tried removing the throttle body and the dern thing was gaulded on there..... couldn't get it to budge an inch.....
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #63 –
Unless you can figure a way to access those those ed upside down screws, I suspect you'll have to remove the upper intake...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #64 –
once upon a time i had a fuel pump that was reading fine in park but under a load, the guage would dip below 20psi at the upper rpms of each gear shift.  I installed a super coupe pump (about 40 bux just for the pump) and retested under a load.  Presure never went below 30psi at the top rpm of each gear shift.
just commenting on your previous post mentioning what you saw.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #65 –
I changed out my FPR on my 86 cat. It wasn't the problem, but the car idled better and revved quicker. I'm sure it was contributing factor.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #66 –
anybody got a copy of ford electrical schematics for 87-88 cougars?
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Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #67 –
I got the new pressure regulator installed....It does rev up better...... Won't know for sure if that was the problem.... Til monday or tuesday.... When I come home from work.. In the Heat of the afternoons...........
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #68 –
Fuel pressure regulator wasn't the trouble... Still does it.... I'm completely stummped...  It was cutting out at (WOT)before I turned off the car..... took the belt of this time.....car revved up like it should....put belt back on car revved up like it should..... Makes no sense..... Any chance the ECU is bad? Get's hot or something causing it to forget it's functions? I'm just grasping at straws at this point........ How can you tell if the smog pump is the one causing the trouble? Should the pulley spin freely? Should it have light resistance, Should it be rather tight???
  Would it hurt if I bypassed the smog pump? Can I get a shorter belt.... What would it hurt?
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #69 –
I thought the reason for replacing the F/P regulator was because you already had it and it couldn't hurt... The fuel pressure still needs to be tested at WOT... Not revving in the driveway, out on the road where the problem occurs...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #70 –
for the smog pump, just take it off while your in the autozone parking lot and try a few inches shorter belt. There is also another way to route the belt to take up more slack.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #71 –
Odie's last stand...... If this don't work I'm gonna shoot the car ........... What should the fuel pump ohm out at? The one I just pulled out of my tank ohms out @ 1.5 ohms.. (pump is only 18mths old....) New Walbro pump...5.5 ohms... The original pump 45.6 ohms(but thats bad right?)..New pump in the tank... New strainer... I'll know for sure tomorrow...I have a  20 mile drive tomorrow..40mile round trip...  I also figured out why my fuel gauge went out... "The float fell off" I found it in the funnel when My son and I drained the tank...
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #72 –
You are just measuring the resistance of the motor's armature, which can vary depending on how many segments are are in contact with the brushes... Also varies by the size wire used to wind the armature... I other words, your measurements are mostly useless... Only if it were shorted(near 0 ohms), or open would resistance measurements be useful...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #73 –
Quote from: odie12372;278573
Ok .... Just ran fuel pressure test part 2..... Took wife to store... the fuel pressure when my foot was mid throttle was around 35-40psi.. (wot) 30-32psi... While she was in the store... I stayed in the car and left it Idling...it stayed at 32psi....It idled like that for approx. 20-25 minutes... When she came out we took a longer way home so I could really punish the throttle on the hwy. 2nd gear mid throttle 35-40psi... Wot she dropped to 20psi.. In drive same result... I left it in drive all the way up the hwy.. to keep rpm's up... wot fuel pressure would drop to 20psi.. [COLOR="Red"]and a couple of time less than that[/COLOR]....  Like I've said it seems the longer it ran the worse it got.... When I left work today.. I had to go pick up something... so I had to go 10 mile's out of the way..... So roughly I drove 30 miles home today.. and once again it started cutting out 10 miles from home...


seeing a trend here.
over time the problem shows back up.  the car told you there was a problam per above in my opinion.  pump time.  get a 1990 SC 3.8L pump kit from advance and install it.

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #74 –
Quote from: odie12372;281591
New Walbro pump...5.5 ohms... The original pump 45.6 ohms(but thats bad right?)..New pump in the tank... New strainer...
As you can see .... I already put new pump in the tank... So far so good ...... Go to http://www.coolcats.net they'll tell you not to buy pumps from autozone or advanced... they have a high failure rate... I've learned my lesson....I ordered it from summit. And paid the same price for a whole kit shipping and all.. It Was the same price I paid 18mths ago from advanced just for the pump..
ǾĐÍξ