Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Got a question about engine codes and other general questions. (Read 8111 times) previous topic - next topic

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

I have an 87 cougar 20th ann. edition. 5.0.... Not sure what the deal is... Yall helped me figure out what was wrong with my cougar a few months ago... When the TFI module was bad.... Well the same issue is happening but, I'm not loosing fire this time... Engine is cutting out... real bad.... I run a koeo (key on engine off) test nothing but the number 11 kept coming up.... So I ran the koer ( key on engine running test.. I got 12 and 16 first.... and that was it... knowing there is an issue somewhere ..... with the test still going I opened up the throttle wide open and the engine starts cutting out... then the computer throws this code at me... 77... No where in my book is there a 77 listed for an engine code for my year model .... there is a 77 listed for the turbo cars... could this apply to mine?  I ran a fuel pressure test... 30lbs...  ran it at wide open throttle. Pressure went nuts. gauge was all over the place.Fuel pump is only 18mths old, strainer replaced when pump was put in.. Changed fuel filter at the same time.. then a year later changed it again..  Tps sensor is new. I just don't know where else or what else to check..
ǾĐÍξ

tps sensor

Reply #1 –
how do you test a tps sensor? what should it ohmn out at ? Tps sensor is new doesn't mean it's not bad...
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #2 –
you never got a code for the PIP(code 22 i think), right?
shot in the dark here on your fuel issues... im guessing fuel pressure regulator.
other than the injectors its the only other component of the fuel system you havent replaced.
ill dig into my snap-on book im sure ive read this issue in there before.
"Beating the hell out of other peoples cars since 1999"
1983 Ford Thunderbird Heritage
1984 Ford Mustang GT Turbo Convertible
2015 Ford Focus SE 1.0 EcoBoost

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #3 –
I put the old tps sensor back on it yesterday.... computer throwed code 23...... I reset the codes and put the newer one back on it and it still throwed code 23 again and 77 at wot(wide open throttle). Any Info would be greatly appreciated...
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #4 –
It's never going to begin to run correctly till you get the TPS code issue fixed... Agreed code 77 isn't listed for the 5.0, but that isn't you issue, fix the 23 and retest, 77 will likely disappear as well... If you didn't have a code 23 before you started swapping parts(you stated KOEO passed in the first post), you now have two problems...

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #5 –
I just went to autozone and exchanged the tps sensor for a new one... since it was still under warranty.... Installed it in the parking lot.... Got out on the road still the same issue... The longer the car runs the issue gets worse.. But, it seems weather related... This originally started last summer.. When it was real hot it cut's out real bad.. to the point to where you would barely touch the throttle and it would cut out.. But, during the winter it never did it.. Unless I drove none stop all day long... Then it would eventually start doing it again...  Let me go check the codes again...See if that stopped code 23....
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #6 –
ok just went out and checked the codes again... and 23 wasn't one of them... (Koer) key on engine running ... 12, 13 , 16 were my codes.... When I went to wide open throttle .... engine still cutting back... It throwed code 77 again.... (Koeo) Key on engine off 11 was the only code it throwed at me...
            You said that the fuel pressure regulator is really the next logical option.. I agree.. but, to replace it I'll have to remove what to change it? The throttle body? Thank you (FORD) for putting it in such a respectable place...HA HA
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #7 –
Just so you know, you can't just change a TPS in a parking lot.  You need to install it, connect a multimeter and adjust it to the right voltage.  Also, is 30 psi in spec for that 5.0?  I know the HO's are up around 39 psi...
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #8 –
Well Maybe by Ford's standards your not supposed to change these in a parking lot.... But, I'm not a Ford Technician . I have two manuals I go by.. I have Chiltons which supplies some technical info. And from what you are telling me  Chilton's says thats a test not an adjustment.... and Haynes which don't give many special instructions... other than take to Ford.(that won't happen) Sorry, not trying to be a smart a**.. Explain to me your procedure and I will give it a shot..... Can't hurt to try it... It can't do anything but, help.. as far as the fuel pressure your right.. going by haynes it says around 39 lbs.  Chilton's is telling me  between 30/40...
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #9 –
Its pretty easy.  The bolt holes on the tps are actually slotted (maybe just one of them) so it can be moved back and forth while the bolts are loose.  You'll need to test between the green and black wires (I believe, someone confirm).  Place your positive multimeter lead on the green and negative on the black.  You want to move the sensor until you read just around .98 volts.  Once you hit that, tighten the bolts making sure not to move the tps and retest it once its tightened. 

If this is set wrong the computer will not be able to get the air/fuel mixture, as it relates to the throttle, correct.  I believe you'll also need to set your idle adjust screw before adjusting the tps because the idle screw will vary the sensors voltage.
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #10 –
And your setting this adjustment with switch on to achieve .98.... or is the green wire live all the time?
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #11 –
sorry, good point.  Ignition in run, engine off.  But I think the motor should be up to temperature....?  Doesn't seem like it'd matter but I seem to remember this being important.  Or maybe I'm thinking of something else.  Either way, it can't hurt!  :hick:
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
'89 5.0 w/ ported intakes, Mallory Adjustable FPR, BBK shorties and H with 2.5" Flows, 130 amp 3G, 89 Mustang comp/wiring, Aluminum radiator w/ elec fan, T5 trans, King Cobra clutch, 3.55 gears, 13" Cobra brakes (front), Wilwood prop valve, Mustang A-arms, Front Coil-overs, MM CC plates, Silver 17x9 R's, 03 Cobra IRS, Aluminum DS, 2002 Mustang dash/console etc..., custom leather seats

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #12 –
I got out there today readjusted the idle and got the tps set at .98 volts.... at first i thought you were crazy.... because when I took my meter out there at first I got no readin g from the green and black.. Finally, I kept trying and finally got it right..I guess.. It's set at .98 now.
ǾĐÍξ

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #13 –
Hows it run now? The IAC can also affect idle. I first would change the fuel filter, then I would test the fuel pressure with a pressure tester. There is no reason to throw parts that won't fix your problem in.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Got a question about engine codes and other general questions.

Reply #14 –
Quote from: odie12372;277273
I got out there today readjusted the idle and got the tps set at .98 volts.... at first i thought you were crazy.... because when I took my meter out there at first I got no readin g from the green and black.. Finally, I kept trying and finally got it right..I guess.. It's set at .98 now.


What you do is run a chainsaw file up in the holes to oblong them.
rotate tps with bolts in and dial in something as low as possible around .6 - .9 vdc

You can lay a dozen new TPS's on the counter and check the resistance from the black to orange,,, all will read way off from one another.  The total resistance of the black to org wire is the key to a finer signal back to the eec (in my thinking process).

All my OEM TPS sensors total resistance are well above 4.7kohms while the aftermarket ones I have range from 4.2k up to 4.6.

Also, check for a nice blue spark tonight,, if you dont have a whitish blue spark with no orange,, the the stator or hall effect sensor is good inside the dizzy as well as the TFI.  WE talked about the Hall Effect before.