No start (SOLVED) Reply #15 – February 17, 2008, 11:30:44 PM Quote from: jcassity;204808I did not realize that. Where'd you find that info at? SO in a no spark situation, you would have to have the engine running in order to see the defect? I cant understand why this is so because if there was a defect with the TFI during operation, the EEC should have record of it. THe car has been doing a little bucking often after warm up so i figured one day i would pull codes and narrow it down. Now that the bucking seems to have been cured , there is no record of any spark related items.Mem code 14. Erratic Ignition. (EEC looking at PIP pulses)Indicates two successive erratic PIP pulses occured, resulting in a possible miss or stall. Check PIP pulse frequency and % of dwell. Check EEC and ignition systems harness for: loose wires/ connectors...Arching secondary ignition components...On-board radio transmitter.Code 18. Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (EEC looking at TFI side of coil)KOER. SPOUT circuit open during test.MEM. Loss of signal from coil negative or SPOUT grounded.They do list the TFI as one thing that could cause this.I did get a MEM code 14 on my car when the PIP pick-up in the distributor went bad. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #16 – February 18, 2008, 04:54:08 PM The orange ground wire with the large lug is the ground for the O2 sensor on my 88TC and it gets grounded to the coldside of my turbo. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #17 – February 18, 2008, 09:11:57 PM thank you, i figured as much. I grounded it to the braided ground strap on the driver side fire wall. I suppose it should be grounded to the head but heck with it, its grounded. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #18 – February 19, 2008, 07:44:45 PM well well well,,,ill just vote myself in for the dumbass ballot. Just got told you dont pull codes on a cold motor or you WILL get an ACT /ECT code:mad: shesh,, that sounds so much like common sense.Ive already bought the ACT and the TPS and ill swap those in a few moments while the oil is draining.After a warm up, ill pull codes again and see whats happening KOEO/KOER. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #19 – February 20, 2008, 10:00:26 PM Quote from: jcassity;205165well well well,,,ill just vote myself in for the dumbass ballot. Just got told you dont pull codes on a cold motor or you WILL get an ACT /ECT code:mad: shesh,, that sounds so much like common sense. Not really, and I'd hardly consider you for the ballot. You'd be surprised how many try this. I refer to reading about it MANY times on a couple other sites for Ford Trucks, as well as getting a ton of codes myself, only to have them disappear when the engine got warm. Yes, you WILL get ECT and ACT codes. Even in the ancient Haynes manual I have on the 'Bird, it says WARM engine. Might also refer to www.fordfuelinjection.com. Great site. Now, as for the pip/tfi problems, me and another guy (mostly his experiment) have been discussing the very issue of no available test box for testing PIP or TFI in car, or on bench. Go see this thread. It's basically a test box to test PIP and TFI (dizzy mounted) in car, using LED's to show if PIP is triggering, and if TFI is also triggering. One thing I haven't discussed with him, though, is burden on the coil output of the TFI, and whether that's going to make a difference in revealing an ailing TFI. http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3330 You might wanna build this yourself. I'm strongly considering it. This would be a mighty handy tool for a warm-engine shutdown on the highway, and possibly avoid pulling a dizzy for a PIP. A blown up TFI and a junk harness should yeild the connectors needed for building. We're also discussing a hand-held tester for TFI/Coil, with a built in oscillator, and use just a spark tester to go with it. Plug the spark tester into the coil, test box inline with TFI, and turn it on. Spark tester should light up like a Xmas tree if TFI and coil are good. The guy I've been discussing this with is an EXCELLENT resource. About as sharp as a $2 tack. Pity he doesn't own a 'Bird or Cat. He'd be here if he did, I promise, if I had to drag him kicking and screaming. This guy has a diagram for ANYTHING on the Gen 8 F-150's, and is very well versed on EEC-IV. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #20 – February 20, 2008, 10:33:14 PM make sure to pass along that pic of the stator i gutted. I found bad solder connections with the black iwre and he may find that interesting. Like a dumbass, i did not change the stator ,,,,,YET.I like people like that,, smart people who are more than curious enough to think hard about some things people would typically ignore and just replace the part. Im in it for the long haul on these cars and the more I learn to work around the easier things will be over time.I am in need of a spare dizzy to experiement with and modify it so the stator can be removed from the top. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #21 – February 20, 2008, 11:21:47 PM Hmmm, that's going to require a removable vane ring. Would probably need to be keyed or roll pinned to prevent slippage on the shaft. Either that, or a two piece shaft, keyed, with an allen through the center of the top part. Cutting the shaft and minimizng metal loss will be the issue, unless you get TWO, and offset the cut on each to compensate for the cutting losses. Got a lathe? Dunno why they had to be designed the way they are. Probably some engineer's ONLY way. You want five ONLY ways to do something, just ask five engineers. Fire a link to that photo you referred to. I'm also going to see if I can find some photos of the relocated TFI project. As I recall, they just used one from the Effies with the heat sink, and gutted a dizzy mounted one to build a connector and re-seal the dizzy. I like people like Bill too. I hate just throwing parts at something til the problem goes away. I want to know WHAT failed, and WHY, so maybe I can make some corrective measures to prevent it happening again. Most failures on my vehicles, I know EXACTLY why they failed. I let dealers work on 'em. Quote Selected
No start (SOLVED) Reply #22 – February 21, 2008, 12:06:24 AM post number 5 of this thread has the picture of the gutted stator.My thoughts are as i described there as well. The octan rod will keep the stator from rotating,, keeping it stationary. All i want to try is to trim away part of the circle part / mount part so it snaps around the dizzy shaft.The metal work on the part where the rotor sits is another issue as well.And by the way,, on 6 different instances, i have resistance readings that match on the stator asembly from the three connections. They all read about the same range. Quote Selected
Topic: No start (SOLVED) (Read 3248 times)
previous topic - next topic
