popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Topic: popping and squeek "SOLVED" (Read 17901 times) previous topic - next topic

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #30 – January 12, 2008, 03:21:11 AM

Quote from: jcassity;197282

ok,, ill bite. HOW?
How could you change control arm bushings without having to deal with the spring in some manner?

Getting the springs out w/o a compressor is no big deal. I have NEVER used one when removing stock springs. I just drop the arm and pop the spring off the seat with a pry bar and done. Getting stock length springs back in is a PITA w/o one, but I never have reinstalled stock springs...

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #31 – January 12, 2008, 03:30:16 AM

well the topic is CA bushings ,, not about springs. Besides,, i never said i took any spring out so CougarSe must be talking about getting the CA bushing out without a compressor. Thats what he said if you read his post. The spring stays in the car, not sure how many times I have to say that.

He only used the word "THIS" ,,, so this happens to be about CA bushings.

oh well,, no biggie. I just read what people type.

See pic below for people who still dont understand what i mean. Not sure how anyone could remove the CA and not have to control the spring.

This pic is pretty cool by the way. Notice anything strange? the magical floating sway bar bushing / rod/ thing a ma jig.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #32 – January 12, 2008, 11:40:56 AM

I believe what he meant was that you do not need a spring compressor to remove the spring in order to access and remove the control arms. With the car supported on jackstands and a floor jack placed under the control arm(so the spring doesn't fly off), remove your strut, brakes, tie rod end, sway bar end link, and ball joint nut. Once the ball joint is free from the spindle, you can safely lower the control arm to relieve spring pressure and remove the spring. I'm sure alot of people already knew this procedure, just thought I'd point it out.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #33 – January 12, 2008, 12:32:51 PM

Did you have to do anything special to get the Control arm bolts out? Or are you one of the lucky ones....

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #34 – January 12, 2008, 07:57:48 PM

Quote from: CougarSE;197328

Did you have to do anything special to get the Control arm bolts out? Or are you one of the lucky ones....

yes,, I menitoned that earler and take a look at the pic above your post. You will see the CA bolt sticking out. I got in there and cut off some of the Pan Head portion of the head. Rotate the bolt just right and they come out.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #35 – January 12, 2008, 08:08:52 PM

Well,, here are some more pics.

first - using a drill you can just ream out the rubber portion
second- the bushing just comes out after you drill it
third-saw zall the center ring out
fourth- pry out the left overs on each side

Ive noticed it wont be with any tools i have lying around that will get these installed. Ill have to visit a buddy tomorrow to press them in.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #36 – January 12, 2008, 08:23:59 PM

and here is the 4th pic mentioned,,outter ring out.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #37 – January 12, 2008, 08:51:22 PM

Quote from: jcassity;197411

Ive noticed it wont be with any tools i have lying around that will get these installed. Ill have to visit a buddy tomorrow to press them in.

As mentioned before, be sure you support the open portion of the arm as you press the bushings in.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #38 – January 12, 2008, 08:56:53 PM

Yep, i was eyeballing that a while ago. Ill probably insert a piece of steel the correct width in between there in the open area while pressing.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #39 – January 12, 2008, 09:17:48 PM

Quote from: slicksport88;197318

I believe what he meant was that you do not need a spring compressor to remove the spring in order to access and remove the control arms. With the car supported on jackstands and a floor jack placed under the control arm(so the spring doesn't fly off), remove your strut, brakes, tie rod end, sway bar end link, and ball joint nut. Once the ball joint is free from the spindle, you can safely lower the control arm to relieve spring pressure and remove the spring. I'm sure alot of people already knew this procedure, just thought I'd point it out.

i thought of that as well. I just think that is one of those things that look better on paper. you sure wouldnt get the spring to go back in doing the same process in reverse thats for sure. You'd raise the car off the ground before hand. Im not a wrench by any means by trade but i do know my way around tools and thinking about things and that process just has too many issues. I guess ill never kwow till i try. Ill stick with what i know,, safety.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #40 – January 12, 2008, 09:44:48 PM

Good thread...

Now being rich and lazy, I'll just buy new control arms if I need bushings...

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #41 – January 12, 2008, 10:12:35 PM

aftermarket ca's that look just like stock?
would they also come with the ball joint?

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #42 – January 12, 2008, 10:17:42 PM

Wanna know what really sux about all this?
Ford shop up in Union told me if i got the parts, they could do the job for 85bux per side.

I was temped,, but the wife said,,"your really gonna let someone else make sure its done right?":mad:
So,, i guess im knee deep into it. Something tells me they might have made a mistake on that quote.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #43 – January 12, 2008, 10:47:09 PM

Quote from: jcassity;197422

Wanna know what really sux about all this?
Ford shop up in Union told me if i got the parts, they could do the job for 85bux per side.

Something tells me they might have made a mistake on that quote.

Not really. I bet they could have handled them in 1-1.5 hours per side, removal and installation. Was that quote for just the R&R on the bushings/ball joints, or was that including removing the arms from the car, etc?

With a press or even an air chisel, the bushings come out pretty easily. I've used both with good quick results.
When I mentioned the saw-zall I was suggesting you chop through the whole lot, shell, bushing, sleeve and all. That would have cut down on the time to remove.

You're pretty much on the backside of it now.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #44 – January 12, 2008, 11:45:09 PM

Quote from: JeremyB;197181

Scott, would you measure the ID of the FLCA bushing housing?

I'm thinking about putting some spherical bearings in a set of FLCAs.

Jeremyb et all
Here is all the information on the FLCA,, enjoy. Below is a lay out of the driver side ca.

Chuck
that quote was for the R/R of the bushings with them doing all the work turn key with me dropping off the car. I think it was a good price.