popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Topic: popping and squeek "SOLVED" (Read 17883 times) previous topic - next topic

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #15 – October 10, 2007, 02:53:15 PM

Quote from: 04FordHarleyF250;181770

the six bolts that hold the K member in. .

Well, now............................
Ill have an answer this evening. Thats interesting cause ive never known that to be a problem. Thanks , ill check that as well.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #16 – October 10, 2007, 11:24:11 PM

First step is to inspect what i think is the problem. With a pry bar i was able to shift the control arm forward and then aft.

first pic is of the rear bushing, Looks to be in tact.
Second pic is of the front bushing which seems to be rather lacking.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #17 – October 10, 2007, 11:36:44 PM

so...............
i decide that i need to compress that stinking spring. With all my misc parts i have laying around, im sure to come up with something that will work and is safe.

In the first pic just above my tool there is a round hole you can barely see in between the big ass bolts mounted upsdie down. Ford calls for a tool that passes through that hole and down through the spring and hooks into a coil. For the life of me, i cant figure out how that design would be safe and stable and also not pen 15 eye the spring when its compressed.

first pic is of the spring compressor i made installed. Seems to work fine although i found out that everything needs to be 1'' longer. Sux to be me but oh well,, just cut another threaded rod and be done with the tool.

second pic is of the tool layed out as it appears installed.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #18 – October 11, 2007, 02:33:40 PM

Quote from: jcassity;180719

just troubleshoot it, like described. you will feel the vibration of the squeek with your fingers increase as you get closer and closer to the sound. Gotta have a helper push up and down on the car (preferably on the front corners).

change em like my pics are in the lounge '"ball joints" thread.

found what the noise was.
the passenger side strut moved from the rivet in the tab on top of the strut tower failing. not sure how though im sure theres more wrong there than i noticed but i moved it back and the noise went away so when i get the time ill go over it more properly:D

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #19 – January 11, 2008, 01:06:27 AM

Got out to remove my CA arms this evening. TOO EASY!!! except for one minor thing. The rack and pinion bolt head is "pan head" so to speak and is impossible to get out unless you remove the inner tie rod end and to some experts, the rack as well. Well, i said "f" that.

[COLOR="Red"]First pic-[/COLOR] My spring tool that keeps you safe and sound with no worries about the spring poping out at ya. Its construction is on a prior page layed out on the floor so you can see how its made. One important factor,,, You have to weld a washer on the pipe and grind it so its flush with the short section of pipe. This is nessasary and hard to explain but if yo dont do it,, you'll soon understand why.

[COLOR="red"]second pic-[/COLOR] The second pic illustrates how the head of the bolt bumps into the rack and pinion housing. Once i got the nut off, i was able to tap the bolt out a little and lob off part of the pan head portion of the bolt. Getting the bolt in the right rotational position allows for it to clear the rack with some difficulty but it does come out if your rack bolt is removed. Done deal,, CA is out now and on the bench.

[COLOR="red"]Third pic[/COLOR] CA arm on the bench and a cold beer to collect my thoughts on "what do i have to get this beyoch out.

[COLOR="red"]Fourth Pic[/COLOR] Here is a cool idea i came up with. Using some more s 5/8'' threaded rod, a couple of nuts and as many washers you can find on the left and right side of each nut,, you can press out the guts of the bushings.
Downside,,,,,,,,,,I did not like how doing this tweeked my CA arm so i dont suggest it. It was one of those good bad ideas. Torch time i guess. Followed by a saw to penetrat the outter bushing housing and then peal them out. Sounds exactly like ive been told previously.

All in all, with that tool i made (which highly resembles the shop manual tool but much more safe), the CA arm was out inside of 45 minutes to my surprise. My brother in law says that tool would make for a great adjustable up or down lift kit. I supose it could be a permanant addition to a car or truck the way it works. Oh well, thats for you all to decide.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #20 – January 11, 2008, 01:18:19 AM

4th pic mentioned above
Maybe someone else can figure out a way of getting out the bushing besides a torch.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #21 – January 11, 2008, 01:19:12 AM

While you're at it don't forget to replace the sway bar end links

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #22 – January 11, 2008, 12:05:41 PM

Yeah, this job sucks. Aside from a press, maybe, you may need to resort to a little tank MAPP gas (homedepot, etc.. if you don't have one). The outside layer of the rubber becomes liquid and the bushing slides out. Then a saws-all to cut a slit in the inside of the metal sleeve (if you're replacing the metal part - I feel it's easier to buy and install a complete rubber/metal bushing unit it than trying to squish the rubber into the sleeve). From here, a ball joint press will press the new bushings/sleeves in but make sure you go PERFECTLY straight in or you'll start to hear cracking. Also, some deep sockets wedged on the inside of the a-arm will help to avoid collapse.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #23 – January 11, 2008, 12:20:33 PM

Scott, would you measure the ID of the FLCA bushing housing?

I'm thinking about putting some spherical bearings in a set of FLCAs.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #24 – January 11, 2008, 12:27:00 PM

Your new bushings have sleeves, so no need to save anything.

You have a saw-zall or band saw? Chop through the bushings, sleeves and all right where they go through the arm. That should make them easier to get out.

make sure you support the arm when you push the new bushings in.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #25 – January 11, 2008, 03:21:07 PM

Quote from: jcassity;180510

Poping noise
Symptom....
While applying brake presure and car dips up front, poping noise heard. While going up hill on a gravel driveway Rattle noise heard like the noise a golf ball in a wood box would produce if you shake it.
Put car in "D" , let off brake and reapply brake - POP
Put car in "R" , let off brake and reapply brake - POP
Solution,
Have an experienced eye listen while doing the above two steps. Mr experienced eye will notice the lower control arm shifting forward and aft as "D" and "R" are selected.
buy new control arm bushings and replace,,,,, OH GOODY:mad:

See my "WTB" thread

OH FREAKIN GREAT. I get the SAME thing practically. Its more sporadic but the SAME sound, I FEEL it through the floorboard. A local shop put a pry bar on every piece of the suspension and he said all was tight as could be......but Im wondering. Well I've read about THIS operation....yeah not happenin right here I'm gonna have to live with it for awhile.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #26 – January 11, 2008, 10:12:57 PM

Quote from: Chuck W;197182

Your new bushings have sleeves, so no need to save anything.

You have a saw-zall or band saw? Chop through the bushings, sleeves and all right where they go through the arm. That should make them easier to get out.

make sure you support the arm when you push the new bushings in.

chuck ahhh,, good idea. also i was thinking about drilling a large hole in the rubber all the way through. Then use my saw zall to cut out the inner rubber thingy. Then, ill do what you said. Lobe the one outter shell in half. That will make life easier for sure then theres really no need for a torch.

jeremyb,, Ill measure them tomorrow,,ok?

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #27 – January 11, 2008, 10:20:16 PM

The passanger side is just a wee bit different but no big deal.
In order to gain real estate on the top where my big as plate sits, you have to undo the fuel and brake line clips along the top.

see pic below.

Also,, if anyone copies this tool, make sure you understand that the lower big plate needs to pass through the lowest available opening in the spring. The lower the better. Also,, your lower metal plate should point as shown in the pic or else you end up pen 15eye'd.

Also for safey,, Always keep the balljoint nut on until you know for a fact presure is off the CA. IN this pic below, the CA is ready for removeal.

Cant wait for tomorrow ,, to try and drill out the rubber, use the saw zall to gut that F'er.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #28 – January 12, 2008, 12:22:30 AM

Funny I've always managed to do this without a spring compressor. Of course when I put the new springs in my 88 Cougar they were 3 inches shorter.

popping and squeek "SOLVED"

Reply #29 – January 12, 2008, 02:37:27 AM

Quote from: CougarSE;197278

Funny I've always managed to do this without a spring compressor. Of course when I put the new springs in my 88 Cougar they were 3 inches shorter.

ok,, ill bite. HOW?
How could you change control arm bushings without having to deal with the spring in some manner?