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Topic: Layla's Winter Re-Dux (Read 3707 times) previous topic - next topic

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Well, It's 2.5 weeks until the track re-opens (swap meet and road rally) for drag racing, and points officially starts. I am going to finish this car! Long story short, when I built and installed the new engine in Oct 05 the machine shop had not replaced the guides. The valves and guides beat on each other causing excessive wear and blow-by by late 2006. In Jan 07 I pulled the head after doing a compression test. 7 guides and 5 valves were shot. After rummaging through 6 heads, I brought the original back in (new machine shop) and decided to dive in with both feat.

Original Combo (what's staying in the car, as assembled Oct 2006, or added since then):
87TC block, bored .030 over, ARP main studs, ARP head studs, Melling Hi-Volume/Stock Pressure Oil Pump
87TC crank, turned .010/.010, Mahle coated bearings, internally balanced
87TC stock rods, resized and balanced, ARP rod bolts, Mahle coated bearings
Sealed Power .030 over Forged pistons with coated skirts, moly rings
BBK 255HP fuel pump, Kirban AFPR, Cruzin 35# injectors
Ported upper/lower 88TC intakes, ported 88TC TB, ABM IC hoses, 88TC top-mount IC, ABM CAI, 12" K&N cone
Ported E6, SS exhaust manifold bolts, ported down elbow, 2.5" mandrel single exhaust (4' long, axle dump) with single MagnaFlow
SC50R ball-bearing SIII turbo (T04E nose, .60 A/R, 50-trim, wet center, ball bearings, SIII turbine, .63 A/R)
Gillis Boostvalve, MaxPSI Oil feed and return lines
NGK TR5's, Motorcraft Wires, Cap, and Rotor, New Motorcraft Dizzy with Dyno-Mod Hot TFI, MSD Blaster II Coil
LA3, all new sensors, all emissions  still there (except cat and charcoal box)
Chuck W motor mounts

New items waiting to be installed:
Completely rebuilt ported 88TC head (New hardened guides, new springs, new retainers, new cam bearings, etc, etc)
A234 roller cam
Esslinger Valve Cover (First of the "new" ones I'm told...)
Esslinger Star Adjustable Cam Pulley
Fel-Pro 1035 Head Gasket
Summit Oil Catch-Can System
Relocated Coolant Overflow
New Optima Red Top (I stole the 5 year old one out of Layla for the truck :hick: )
Auto Meter UltraLite II Boost Gauge
Dual Pillar Pod

Once the car is up and running with the stock LA3/35#s/VAM set-up at low boost I will be stepping up to a MAF, TwEECer R/T, and 56# injectors (already on the shelf) along with an AEM UEGO. I also badly need some suspension/brake work as the 3 year old rebuild is worn out and too stock (poly bushings, FMS shocks). On the suspension shelf we already have a set of CHE upper and lower rear control arms. Problem is that rear end isn't going back in without a 5-lug conversion :evilgrin: The exhaust will happen first though with a Stinger 3" downpipe, 3" hi-flow cat, dual 2.5" over-the-axles with MagnaFlow's, and some shiny tips :D Mostly to please the girl and the neighbors (the current exhaust is lacking in the noise reduction department :hick: )

Also on the car NOW:
RAM Powergrip HD 6-puck Carbon/Kevlar clutch kit
All RP fluids
A/C delete (it's the Pacific Northwest and a moonroof car, I never used it :P )
3-core copper radiator
Hankook IceBear 225/60/16's (yes, I drive TC in snow :hick: )
Every option possibly available except the A4LD. So she's heavy :D

Anyways, the track re-opens for a quickie 1-nighter on Sat the 21st for a T-N-T and opens fully Fri the 27th. My goal is to be laying down 13's on the 27th. If I can go to TNT on the 21st, even better. Right now she's going back together with Valvoline 30W NON-detergent oil, a NAPA Gold, and a bottle of GM E.O.S. to facilitate breaking-in (again). Once 100 miles are on and everything is good, then a switch to a K&N filter and Royal Purple 10W30 will happen. Unfortunately the girl and I switched offices last week, and though hers is done, mine is currently a giant pile of stuff (orders/boxes/paperwork) and still needs paint (grey). So I can't work on her 100% of the time. Anyways, the lack of racing should distract me long enough to finish the car. I will post updates often, please continue to poke me with a stick until finished.

:birdsmily:

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #1 –
Sounds all fine and dandy.

Just 2 things I noticed.

Wouldn't you make better power with a FMIC?
And
Most if not all of the F-body guys who run the spray or any type of FI use the NGK TR-6's not the TR-55's... wouldn't you benefit from a colder plug?

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #2 –
Answer #1: No. The top mount is a LOT more effiecient then the clone-monkeys think (I've actually done laser-temp testing). Plus the fact that my turbo was actually designed AFTER I was born, and both the IC and turbo/E6 have proper thermal coatings.

...and the car would look stupid with non-functional scoops :hick: ...

Answer #2: I actually tried the TR6's last year. I don't think it's at the power level yet to see a gain. I do have another set to try out, and I imagine I will probably use them with the 56#s/MAF set-up.

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #3 –
good work can't wait to see pics, and hear how she runs!
RIP 1988 and 1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC
I welcomed the dark side and currently am driving a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT plus, with a 5.9, Code named project "Night Runner"
Shes black on black, fully loaded, with headers, 180 tstat, e fan, straight exhaust into a cherry bomb vortex ler, full tune up, ported intake and T/B, MSD coil, and round aircleaner.
Mods to come: Fully rebuilt and heavily modded 46RE, and a richmond rachet locker.
my $300 beater ;)
R.I.P Kayleigh Raposa 12/18/90 - 2/24/07

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #4 –
Quote
User Rides  :
Post pics of your car here


:pics-stfu:

:D

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #5 –
Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;139719

...and the car would look stupid with non-functional scoops :hick: ...


I agree. :D

If I ever go front mount that hood is coming off!

Quote from: stuntmannick;139725
:pics-stfu:

:D


:giggle:
2005 Subaru WRX STi|daily driver

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;139719
Answer #1: No. The top mount is a LOT more effiecient then the clone-monkeys think (I've actually done laser-temp testing). Plus the fact that my turbo was actually designed AFTER I was born, and both the IC and turbo/E6 have proper thermal coatings.

...and the car would look stupid with non-functional scoops :hick: ...

Answer #2: I actually tried the TR6's last year. I don't think it's at the power level yet to see a gain. I do have another set to try out, and I imagine I will probably use them with the 56#s/MAF set-up.


Yay... I'm a clone monkey... :flame:

haha, J/K I know virtually nothing about turbo apps compared to you TC guys.  Good to know though. 

I found this car and am wating for an email back.  If things look good, might pick it up as a project/daily driver.

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;139719
Answer #1: No. The top mount is a LOT more effiecient then the clone-monkeys think .


I've been trying to tell everyone that for a long time. I went 13 flat at 105 with the top mount, just ice it REAL good. Now, this will be confusing, but the TC went 13.0's at 105 at 3500#'s, and the Capri went 12.5's at 110 at 3200#'s with the NPR. The difference (factoring weight) was about 30 HP for the front mount. Not bad for less than $200.00 total invested (good shopping).

Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;139719
Answer #2: I actually tried the TR6's last year. I don't think it's at the power level yet to see a gain. I do have another set to try out, and I imagine I will probably use them with the 56#s/MAF set-up.


Likely you wont need them, or see a difference. I've tried a lot of plug combo's and gaps with my stuff, and saw no diifference with stock plugs or 103's, and TR5's versus TR6's. I've settles in on the TR5's since they are the easiest to get. (for me)

Bob Myers

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #8 –
Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;139719


...and the car would look stupid with non-functional scoops :hick: ...

It wouldnt look any different...
It's Gumby's fault.

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Aerobird Motorsports;139719
Answer #1: No. The top mount is a LOT more effiecient then the clone-monkeys think (I've actually done laser-temp testing).

I've often wondered about that. I'm not an expert on turbo systems by any stretch, but the FMIC setup looks terribly inefficient. The FMIC may have the advantage of not sitting on top of a hot exhaust manifold and turbo, but it's got a  buttload more piping. The distance from turbo outlet to throttle body is what, a foot and a half with a top mount versus about 8 feet with a front mount? That's a lot of pipe to pressurize, and a lot of bends and restrictions to stuff air through...

I might see an advantage in a big boost/high horsepower config (we're talking dedicated race car here, where you can spool up the turbo at the starting line and use steep gear ratios to offset any lag), but for anything approaching streetable I'd think the top mount would be plenty.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #10 –
See, Bob has quantifiable data! (There goes my big word for the day :hick: ) The top mount stays.

I can get the TR6's just as easy as the TR5's (1-800-230-3030, or speed-dial #1 on the phone :P )

Pics coming forth, prepare yourselfs :P

TBird232 - I have an intense hatred of non-functional hood scoops/bulges/quarterscoops/wings/etc/etc. So it would look STUPID if that hood didn't DO anything anymore. (I'd go Sleeper style if I ever went FMIC, his TC is hot).

ThunderChicken - Hit the nail on the head!

PS - DakotaEpic - BUY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #11 –
When I had a TC I fabbed a sheet metal heat shield to go between the exhaust and the intercooler (I used cardboard to make a template). It actually helped alot. The intercooler rarely got warm to the touch. I wanted to make one out of phenolic material but I got laid off from Boeing before I could snag some, lol...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
86 5.0 Turbocoupe (Katrina), 87 5.0 Sport (Rita)

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #12 –
As for the top mount/front mount debate, it all depends on your setup.

Most of the racing/playing i do is on the street. When youre on the street, you dont hop in the car, fire it up, race, come back, and cool down. Ill cruise 45 minutes stoplight to stoplight, and you can feel a significant drop in power because the top mount is hot. You can yout your hand on my IC after ive done some stoplight to stoplight playing, and itll be more than warm, but not quite hot.

Front mounting the intercooler makes a big difference in a case like mine. You might not notice more power, but youll notice consistant power.

As for lag and pressure drop, the turbo can pressurize the intercooler and piping of an FMIC setup just as fast as it could the top mount. If you use a quality intercooler, youll never notice a difference in lag, and some people have actually reduced spool time with the FMIC because of the bar/plate style intercooler. I wish i could find the dyno plot, but my buddy put an FMIC setup on a 2.2L daytona that never had an intercooler, and the power came in faster, due to the diameter of the tubing, and the free flowing style intercooler.
It's Gumby's fault.

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #13 –
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;139760
I might see an advantage in a big boost/high horsepower config (we're talking dedicated race car here, where you can spool up the turbo at the starting line and use steep gear ratios to offset any lag), but for anything approaching streetable I'd think the top mount would be plenty.


Not really true in my experience. My turbo spools as fast/ faster with the front mount. I honestly can not feel any difference in drivability with the front mount, keep in mind I also have a pretty well set up BPV too.

Bob Myers
 

Layla's Winter Re-Dux

Reply #14 –
See, Bob has quantifiable data!
The difference (factoring weight) was about 30 HP for the front mount.

With the T3, top mount and a fan, intake temps would start to rise rapidly at the top of 3rd gear.  The 50 trim may not be as bad.  Of course, you have to get to the top of 3rd gear to find out.