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Topic: Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around? (Read 2232 times) previous topic - next topic

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Well, since my 3.73 install, it's like a sleeping beast has been awakened...I'm burning the tires through first until around 4800-4900rpm where it shifts to 2nd and continues the smoke show for a few more moments.  Not all the time, but most of the time I can feel some agressive wheel hop going on.

Now...I'm on a low budget...I am a welder/fabricator at a fence/railing company and have access to kick ass welders and other equipment.  I've been kicking around the idea of making my own...why pay an arm and a leg when I can make them myself.  First off, does anyone have a spare stock upper and a stock lower they can give me so I can get some good measurements?  Second, does anyone know the precise OD of the bushings? or am I really going to have to work for this?

Thanks,
Don
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #1 –
You know... it'd probably end up being cheaper and easier to buy the tubular set from CHE.

http://www.cheperformance.com/

They're nice pieces and I have a set myself.  After you install those you might want to spend some time welding up your torque boxes though.
Willpower is no match for Horsepower.

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #2 –
I don't really see how that would be cheaper...would be easier, but certainly not cheaper.  It'll cost me nothing because we don't use any tubular pieces that short.  Just hit the s pile and be done...the only thing that I would have to spend money on would be powdercoating.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #3 –
what about the cost of bushings? i shouldnt have thrown away that set of boxed uppers and lowers i had.

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #4 –
Bushings and powdercoating will be a minimal cost, I'm sure, compared to $250+ control arms...Depends on if I get lazy or not...if I get lazy then yeah, might just buy'em.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #5 –
Just box you originals, only need to weld a plate to the open side...

I know a guy who did just that, with poly bushings, M/T ETs, 4000 stall and 4.30 gears he pulls high 1.6 sixtys in a '88 Sport...

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #6 –
Che's control arms cost me 195.00 shipped not 250.00
Plus i wouldn't mess around with yours and everyone elses safety if one of your homemade arms breaks.

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #7 –
Quote from: dominator
Che's control arms cost me 195.00 shipped not 250.00
Plus i wouldn't mess around with yours and everyone elses safety if one of your homemade arms breaks.

I test this comment....
 
Who do you think welds the arms for CHE?  A "Person", a professional welder.  Now whats not to say that Don isn't a professional welder?
 
Myself, I'm not a profesional welder but I know  well that I can weld two pieces of steel together and make it safe.
 
I even thought about this myself,, and Don what I've thought about for the bushings.... it looks like these after market companys are using leaf spring bushings for there arms.  I didnt' measure mine while I had them out but they looked  close to 2 1/2 inches wide.... the same width as rangers, explorers,, and 88 up chevy 1/2 tons...
 
Just find a tube that they fit nicely and there ya go.
One 88
 

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #8 –
There is nothing wrong with boxing the stock uppers. That provides a lot more support...don't forget, of all the rear suspension components, the uppers need to be the pivot point, which is also why you need to keep rubber bushings for them and not urethane. If you are on a very limited budget and have access to the welding equipment, go for it. You'll definitely notice a difference. Even Chuck at CHE would be the first to tell you to do that. But if you do ever need aftermarket uppers and/or lowers, it's hard to beat the deal of CHE control arms. It's just another option, although a costlier one compared to what you want to do.

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #9 –
Quote from: dominator
...i wouldn't mess around with yours and everyone elses safety if one of your homemade arms breaks.


Lol, yeah that wouldn't happen.  I weld every day...I'm considered a "welder"...its what they pay me for...whether it be aluminum or steel.  I don't just weld railing pickets in all day, I do fabricate and weld things that need to be rock solid and handle a lot of weight everyday for years. 

CougarSE...thanks buddy!  I probably will just box my uppers because it seems to be the easier route...I'll see what happens after that...if it still hops a bit then I'll work on something for the lowers...they look easier anyway.....Do you think I could go aluminum on the lowers or would it not be worth it?

Thanks
Don
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #10 –
Don did you see my thread about my boxed arms?  I only boxed the uppers.  The lower arms are very stiff by themselfs.  the uppers however, when off the car you can sqeeze them with your hand and get them to flex about 1/2 inch inward, they are very flimsy.
 
Now for aluminum.  there are companys that make aluminum arms but I dont think they used tubular aluminum, I think its all extruded or forged pieces.
One 88

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #11 –
Just weld a plate on there. I dont see how this would bring them any closer to falling apart at random.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #12 –
Sorry guys,didn't mean to flame anybody but i was just stating a point,for the money and hassle it is just easier and safer(from my point of view)just to buy them.
Now i'm not a welder or fabricator but am a licenced tech and have seen some peoples hackery and what they think is safe(not saying this is you)but it's not.
Those arms handle alot of stress and load,not to mention having to have exactly the correct lengths and angles to avoid dog tracking,but by all means if you want to build them be my guest,just trying to state my opinion.

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #13 –
I understand what you're saying dominator.  For the effort and my current combination, it's probably most effective to just remove my uppers, take them to work and weld a plate in without melting the bushing...lol.  I've seen some pretty nasty hack jobs and I don't mess around like that.  As far as the aluminum...yeah I don't think I've seen tubular aluminum used for rear control arms either...probably not the best of ideas.

The way this thing hops right now, I'm afraid its going to start ripping torque boxes out...lol.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads

Now I need control arms...anybody have a spare stocker laying around?

Reply #14 –
Quote from: Sick88Tbird
it's probably most effective to just remove my uppers, take them to work and weld a plate in without melting the bushing...lol.

Just replace all the bushings except the axle ears with poly.. I did.. post is just a bit down the page... ten times stiffer now.
 
And Dominator, I know that I could make a simple jig that would keep the geometry correct when fabricating such a thing.  Hell this thread has got me really intrested in this. 
 
Some of us just have the desire to say "yeah I built that".  I don't care if I spend 30 hours and 400 dollars doing it, but the next time around it will take me alot less than that.
One 88