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Topic: dead cylinder?! (Read 973 times) previous topic - next topic

dead cylinder?!

I recently just bought my '88 Cougar after wrecking my '87 Cutlass. Even though I'm only 19, I love the body styles of these cars and how they sit. Even though my dad owns a starter/alternator rebuilding business, I was always doing my own thing and never really got into the whole car thing until after highschool. Anyways, I recently took my car in for a tune up to his friend and he said that I had a dead cylinder. I personally thought it was the transmission because once i got the car over like 30-35mph the car ran smooth. I figured if one of my cylinder weren't firing it would have been more noticeable. I have the LS model with the problem plagues 3.8 V6. Unfortuantely money is tight and I'd love to keep the car, but engine work is expensive. Is it possible that the cylinder is firing on or off depending on my speed? And how serious of a problem is this, can i drive it? it seems to drive good, its not like i'm racing it or something?! It was a used car and it only had 160,000 miles, so i guess its still got some life, please help...is it alrite to drive?

ps. When the car is idling in park and very rarely in reverse it will stall unless you keep throttling it, but it will NEVER stall in drive, but even though it may stall in park sometimes, once the car has been running it won't stall, thnx

dead cylinder?!

Reply #1 –
Have you done a compression test to verify the cylinder is indeed dead? While its idling pull off plug wires one at a time till you find one that doesnt change the way the engine is running when its off, check that one first.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

dead cylinder?!

Reply #2 –
Also, don't forget that many things can cause a dead cylinder. A burned valve (will usually cause "popping" sound), a bent pushrod or stuck valve (will usually tap or knock), holed piston (will usually cause very, very bad blowby and smoke)...

Some very simple (and relatively cheap) problems can cause a dead cylinder, too, and these are the most common causes. A bad plug wire or fouled plug is very common and fairly cheap. A bad injector is a bit more expensive, but still cheap compared to most mechanical causes...
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1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

push on it

Reply #3 –
if its indeed a dead cylinder, is it alrite to drive? it seems that this is the worst scenario, can a dead cylinder **** anything else up mechanical?

dead cylinder?!

Reply #4 –
If its a holed piston or busted rings it will eventually blow out your seals/gaskets, turning your engine into an oil sieve like my 80 tbird (but boy did it sound sweet at 5 grand :D ) Burnt exhaust valve will just hurt performance and foul the plug in that cylinder but the car can still be driven (drove 90 sprint for 6000km that way)
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

dead cylinder?!

Reply #5 –
Quote from: tbirdscott
Have you done a compression test to verify the cylinder is indeed dead? While its idling pull off plug wires one at a time till you find one that doesnt change the way the engine is running when its off, check that one first.

i agree!!!
:birdsmily:

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dead cylinder?!

Reply #6 –
Quote from: tbirdscott
While its idling pull off plug wires one at a time till you find one that doesnt change the way the engine is running when its off, check that one first.


I recommend pulling the plug wires at the distributor end. Unless you don't mind getting knocked on your fanny.