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Topic: HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!! (Read 2969 times) previous topic - next topic

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

87 XR with a 5 speed carbed 302 in it.
 I have converted to 5 lug wheels,and used the stock 10' drums in the rear.The front end got a set of SVO rotors, and a pair of GT calipers.
  Replaced both rear wheel cylinders-darn bleeder screws, and blead out the lines,until I got a hard pedal. Road tested, and the pedal goes to the floor. I had to pump  the brake to get any kind of stopping action.

  FORD TECH said to install a SVO master cyl,so I ordered one up, and install it.Another quart of fluid later, and i have the same problem.

  I have a set of SVO calipers to install on the front, but until I get this sorted out, I dont want to make matters worse.

  Do I need a Mustang master cylinder to work with the SVO M/C?

    Please, help.........Not sure what to do next!!!!

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #1 –
sounds like you eithe rhave a leak > hardline,rubber hose etc.

or it has air in the system still or is sucking air somewere. or maybe you ran the master dry of fluid? or didnt bench bleed the new one?







on a curious note : what drums and axles did you use on the rear?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #2 –
Nope, bench blead the M/C, no leakes anywhere!

    Ther rear 5 lug set up came from welding the axles up and then re-drilling the 5 lug pattern on the s. Drums are the are the same way.

    I'll look at replacing the flex lines on the car. 2 years ago I purchased this car not running,so I don't know if the brakes were working properly then or not.
 
  It's always a hard pedal when the motors is not running!

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #3 –
Quote from: revnkvn
Nope, bench blead the M/C, no leakes anywhere!

    Ther rear 5 lug set up came from welding the axles up and then re-drilling the 5 lug pattern on the s. Drums are the are the same way.

    I'll look at replacing the flex lines on the car. 2 years ago I purchased this car not running,so I don't know if the brakes were working properly then or not.
 
  It's always a hard pedal when the motors is not running!


was the master cylinder a new or remanufactured? and were did it come from?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #4 –
New M/C from a local undercar parts specialties....bendix......$123.00

  I may have found part of the problem....I drilled the drums to accept the 5 lug pattern, and the rear end feel like the wheels are rolling like an egg after they get hot.Maybe a GOOD chance i got the bolt pattern slightly off and that may be some of my pedal pressure problems.After about 15 minutes of driving ,I can smell the rear brakes, so I know they are dragging. I'll try replacing the drums next.

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #5 –
Brake booster leaking?
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon-  '81 Granada GL 2dr

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #6 –
Quote from: revnkvn
New M/C from a local undercar parts specialties....bendix......$123.00

  I may have found part of the problem....I drilled the drums to accept the 5 lug pattern, and the rear end feel like the wheels are rolling like an egg after they get hot.Maybe a GOOD chance i got the bolt pattern slightly off and that may be some of my pedal pressure problems.After about 15 minutes of driving ,I can smell the rear brakes, so I know they are dragging. I'll try replacing the drums next.



if that doesnt help i would try bleeding it one more time.

then if it doesnt have a good pedal while running i would return the master and get a new one

ive gotton alot of bad mater cylinders. doing just brake work for 3 yrs and you see alot of it .
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #7 –
Not sure about the booster,but the big FORD kits are replacing the boosters in the Motorsport kits.I have a dual "phram" booser from a 5.0 stang,I'l swap that also to see what happens.If that does not work?????????????????

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #8 –
Quote from: SLEEPER T-BIRD 87
if that doesnt help i would try bleeding it one more time.

then if it doesnt have a good pedal while running i would return the master and get a new one

ive gotton alot of bad mater cylinders. doing just brake work for 3 yrs and you see alot of it .





:tg: above above
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #9 –
sleeper....not sure bleeding the system again will make any difference, but I'll run my 3rd quart through it and see what happens.
 I'm still leaning toward the booster not up to snuff. i had the same (sorta)problem before with a mustang that I swapped the front brakes from a 5.0 on to a 2.3,and without a booster, could not get a brake pedal to feel right.
 The Cougar and "birds' are just a bigger version of the Mustang.

  I'll let you know what I find this weekend.............Rev-n.

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #10 –
Id check for leaks again, i had the same problem, i could bleed the brakes for days, start the car, pedal goes to the floor, bleed them again, lots of air

turned out, where the rear hard line meets up with the rubber line, there is a little bracket from the body, well on my car, that rotted out, but the little bracket held the lines in place and made them appear to be in tact
It's Gumby's fault.

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #11 –
I just got my brakes fixed. Remanufactured MC 65 didnt sound bad. Pedal goes a third of the way to the floor. Improvement. But is that good enough.
"Real cars dont power the front wheels, they lift them"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1984 Mercury Cougar GS 5.0:cougarsmily: BBK Equal Length Shorties, BBK O/R X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks, Mustang GT Stainless Tailpipes, 18" Magnaflow Rolled Edge Tips. Turbo Coupe Hood, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. 17"x9" Cobra R's, Falken Ziex 255/50s, and 245/45s.
1984 Ford Thunderbird 3.8L "Drag Queen"
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 Lone Star Edition 5.7L Hemi 400hp, lex DOD14M Magnaflow retro-fit ler kit

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #12 –
So, you bleed the brakes well...and then the pedal goes to the floor during the road test. After the road test, is the pedal hard again? If it is still soft, you either have a bad MC or a leak (as has been suggested). A bad brake booster will never give you a soft pedal. All it does if multiply the force you put on the pedal and "delivers" it to the MC. So, if it goes bad, you'll need much more force to stop the car.

Also, an SVO MC isn't needed when you install an 11" rotor with a 60mm caliper. You'll need the SVO MC when you install the SVO calipers though. (You'll also need a Proportioning Valve to keep from increasing your stopping distance when you slap on the 73mm calipers.)

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #13 –
SVO calipers=Lincoln Mark VII calipers, which have the 73mm piston, so he could have used the lincoln calipers

and the SVO MC with the 5.0 brake booster makes for a very nice combo, regardless of the stock/non stock calipers
It's Gumby's fault.

HELP.my car wont stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Reply #14 –
I have 73mm caliper I will be using with an adjustable prop valve.i'm still going for the 5.0 booster.
 I am not loosing fluid, and do not have air in the lines.with the car off, i have a rock hard pedal,start it up....very soft,but does not go to the floor, just more than my mustangs do.