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Topic: Removing Rear Axle? (Read 1359 times) previous topic - next topic

Removing Rear Axle?

Hey guys,
I have what seems even to me like an easy question, but I have to ask anyway.  I am trying to remove the rear axle on my '83 LS, and I've got all the nuts broken free from the bolts.  However, I cannot get the lower control arm bolts out of their bind to back them out.  If the axle is hanging fully extended, held by the shocks and the upper control arms, how is there still a load on the lower control arm bolts so much that they will not come out?  I know I'm missing something simple, but can somebody please give me a hand.  Also, what is the bolt head style of the bolts holding the driveshaft onto the rear U-joint?  It's not a regular hex head.  More like a 10 or 12 pointed head.  Thanks for any assistance.

Fordman3

 

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #1
The  bolts are 12mm 12-point bolts.

The control arm bolts are very likely seized into the steel sleeve inside the control arm bushings. You might try using an air chisel, but more likely you're gonna have to cut 'em out (and replace the bushings).
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #2
Soak'em  wit WD-40 let them sit overnight then take a BFH to them. You might have to use a punch or something to get to the end of the bolt but they'll come out. This is what I did when removing the rear in my '82 and '86 t-birds
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #3
Put a jack under the center section, and dissconnect the shocks and driveshaft. Then raise and lower the axle until ya get to a point where there is no tension on the bolts. There is still tension on them if the axle is just hanhing down.:D
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #4
Thanks for the replies.  I think Cougarman ishiznitting it on the head; there is still a load or tension on the bolts.  They will actually turn fairly easily and I guess could back themselves out, but I'm afraid the threads would be ruined by the time they came out.  Here's another question; do the rear springs need to be out to relieve the tension on the lower control arms?  Or can they even come out until the whole axle is dropped?  It seems that, as I'm supporting and lifting the center section, I'm compressing the springs and putting more load on the bolts.  The one step I've not been able to do is drop the driveshaft, since I wasn't sure what type of socket I needed to remove the bolts.  Maybe doing that will help.  Since we had to turn the clocks back, I now can only work on my car on the weekends, since it'll be dark every day by 5pm when I get home.  I'll keep you posted.  Thanks again.

Fordman3

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #5
The springs will not help the tension issue, so they should be removed. You should be able to remove them by unbolting the rear shocks and letting the rear hang.

Just because they turn doesn't mean they're not seized to the sleeves inside the control arm bushing - the bushing may be separated from the rubber, allowing it to turn with the bolt. Hopefully it is just tension causing your problem, 'cuz seized bolts are a BITCH. I've a lot of experience with seized control arm bolts - it was a common issue with Isuzu truck frame recalls...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #6
Quote
The springs will not help the tension issue, so they should be removed. You should be able to remove them by unbolting the rear shocks and letting the rear hang.


whoops, yea remove the springs also.:D
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

Removing Rear Axle?

Reply #7
I used homemade jackstands to put under the spring pockets on the LCA's and it worked wonders...although it wasn't very high off the ground.  5-6 2"x6" pieces of wood approx. 10" long stacked and screwed together...i know it sounds cheesey, but it worked well.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads