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Topic: Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help) (Read 3003 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #15 –
Quote from: masterblaster
Ford put the TFI module on the side of the distributor.


Once again I'm saying his is probably mounted on the core support.  Not sure about the 87 3.8 but the 88's are.


My car has the TFI mounted to a heat sink mounted to the core support.  and yes autozone can test it.  But make sure they run the test like 10 times or more untill it is so hot you can't hold it.
One 88

Re: Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #16 –
Quote
Not sure about the 87 3.8 but the 88's are.

My car has the TFI mounted to a heat sink mounted to the core support. and yes autozone can test it.
From the factory? Any chance it was retro-fitted by a previous owner?

Even Autozone thinks it's still on the distributor...

On your 1987 FORD THUNDERBIRD, the CONTROL MODULE is:
UNDER HOOD, CENTER, FRONT ENGINE AREA, MOUNTED ON DISTRIBUTOR

On your 1988 FORD THUNDERBIRD, the CONTROL MODULE is:
UNDER HOOD, CENTER, UPPER ENGINE AREA,
TOP FRONT OF ENGINE, MOUNTED ON SIDE OF DISTRIBUTOR

On your 1989 FORD THUNDERBIRD, the CONTROL MODULE is:
UNDER HOOD, PASSENGER SIDE, FRONT ENGINE AREA,
FRONT OF RADIATOR, DRIVER SIDE OF HEADLIGHT HOUSING,
MOUNTED IN FINNED CONTROL MODULE HOLDER

Maybe Ford started putting them there part way through 88, and continued on with everything from 89 on?
Death awaits you all with nasty, big, pointy teeth.

1988 5.0 Bird, mostly stock, partly not, now gone to T-Bird heaven.
1990 Volvo 740GL. 114 tire-shredding horsies, baby!

Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #17 –
master blaster yest the 88's have them on the radiator place thingy. Courtusey of coolcats.net http://www.coolcats.net/tech/troubleshooting/tfi.html Also this is only on the v-6 cars I do belive
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #18 –
My 84 did the same thing. I had worse problems though. Internal pump didnt work, 1 inch of sludge/rotten gas in the bottom of the fuel tank.
"Real cars dont power the front wheels, they lift them"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1984 Mercury Cougar GS 5.0:cougarsmily: BBK Equal Length Shorties, BBK O/R X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks, Mustang GT Stainless Tailpipes, 18" Magnaflow Rolled Edge Tips. Turbo Coupe Hood, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. 17"x9" Cobra R's, Falken Ziex 255/50s, and 245/45s.
1984 Ford Thunderbird 3.8L "Drag Queen"
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 Lone Star Edition 5.7L Hemi 400hp, lex DOD14M Magnaflow retro-fit ler kit

Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #19 –
I have an unrelated question but since this thread is already up, I might as well use it. I recently went to a local Pick-A-Part Junkyard and got myself a Turbo Coupe Instrument Cluster Panel. After reading through the wiring schematics located in my Chilton Car Care book, and working for 6 hours, I was able to get the Standard Panel out and put the buttstuffog one in. However there are some things bothering me....


Number one, 2 out of the 4 times I started the car, I saw several puffs of smoke and could smell a Burn coming from behind the panel. I could only assume that the Power Coil got so hot that it was burning off some left over grease and dirt that was on the back of the panel. But, not to take any chances, I have decided to drive to and from work tomorrow without the Dash Panel on, just in case I need to remove the Instrument Cluster on the fly.

Other than that, all the gauges worked (To my pleasant surprise), except for the Oil Pressure gauge and obviously the Tachometer. What I would like to know is how to get the Oil Gauge working and what I would need to do to get the tach up and running. Is it possible to calibrate it myself?
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
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Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #20 –
Yhe TFI thingie on the distributor is heat sensitive !
When it cools down, sometimes just a little, the problem will go away. If I'm not mistaken, this was resolved at one time with a class action law suit sgainst Ford.
Oh, I've had the same problem too.
Pull one at a junkyard for a couple of bucks and see if it goes away.
Then buy a new one, I think the newer manufacturing process fixed this problem.
 

Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #21 –
I got myself a New TFI Chip, the car hasn't died out since I put it in, but for whatever reason, it is running a lot rougher that it ever used to while idleing. I don't know how, but it seems that something happened to the engine when all of that dying out was occuring, and now it doesn't run the same. The only thing I can think about doing now is changing out all the plugs, but that's pretty much it. I still don't understand why it's running so rough now. Its like the car was running smooth and normal, then that one day It died out happened, and it starts running really rough while idleing. Even after I change out the TFI module.


I have another problem which I have had since getting the car about 4 months ago. That is a knocking noise. After tighening up loose headlights, and fixing up a loose ler (Which I thought was the culprit), the knocking in the front is still there. I honestly don't know what is causing it. I mean, other than somehow climbing under the car while driving, I just don't know where it's coming from. Is it suspension? (It only happens when hitting a bump or going down a sharp Dip in the road) Is this common?
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
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Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #22 –
The sound just may be sway bar end links.  Very common, cheap and easy to replace.

Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #23 –
Ok, here's a good one. How in gods name am I supposed to change out the right (Passenger) side spark plugs? I was able to get the left sides out in about 5 minutes, but have no clue on how to get to the others. I swear the engineers who make these cars never think about working on them.....

I know taking it somewhere is going to cost a fortune, but there are so many hoses and other environmental  items blocking my way, I can hardly even see the plugs, let alone work on them.  all that emissions ! To boot, there seems to be less space on that side of the engine as well. The  about this whole thing is that you know  well the car was setup in way which you are forced to take it to the dealer to fix certain things. Even with 3 out of the 6 plugs changed, I can notice a HUGE difference in performance. If only I could get to the other 3.
<---One must always remember to Remain cool, calm and collected when dealing with your fellow man, especially on the Internet....
-DMC24guy
[/SIZE]

Annoying Problem Occuring with T-Bird (Need Help)

Reply #24 –
It can't be that difficult. I changed all 6 of mine in my 88 cougar in about 10 min. Ofcourse I had a GM flex handle ratchet with a wobble extention. That maybe all the difference. If you really want a challange change the tranny filter without droping the exhust
84 Turbo coupe 2.3T Modded with 88 upper and lower intake, 88 injectors, E6 manifold, T3-4 AR.60 turbo, 31X12X3 FMIC, Homemade MBC , Greddy knock off BPV.
4 eyes see better than 2! 
Da Bird!

FreeBird