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Topic: Color Sanding (Read 1476 times) previous topic - next topic

Color Sanding

I’ve searched the forums but didn’t find answer….

Anyone have a proven ‘recipe’ for color sanding a non-clear coat car. (83 Bright Red TC)  It’s not orange peel I’m trying to get rid of but dirt, tiny scratches, oxidation, etc from not being waxed in years.  I got brave and cleaned up a small area by wet sanding with 1500, followed by a generic polishing compound, then a pure wax and it came up nice.  I’ve heard there are some 3M products that work real well. I plan on wet sanding (1500-2000??), buying a buffer, masking the high spots and buffing (what speed) after the wet sand. Any product recommendations?
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Re: Color Sanding

Reply #1
I don't have any answers, but I am in the same boat as you.

Re: Color Sanding

Reply #2
if you find a good way, please do a write up and maybe it can be a sticky, or something.

Re: Color Sanding

Reply #3
How about a clay bar first, then hitting it with the Meguiar's 3-step clean/polish/wax?

The clay bar should get most of the . Then the other stuff should get it polished up and cleaned nice. 

I'd be leary of sanding an older factory paint job.....might be  a bit thin in spots.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo - '85 Marquis LTS - '86 LTD Wagon-  '81 Granada GL 2dr

Re: Color Sanding

Reply #4
I'd go clay bar first also.They can work wonders.I used one from "Mother's".
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

 

Re: Color Sanding

Reply #5
Takes a layer of paint right off the car!

(looks off in the distance for Royce!)
One 88

Re: Color Sanding

Reply #6
Well here's my take on this job for what it's worth. Don't  try to remove contaminants, wax,oil, and silicone by sanding. You can sand them right into the paint job particularly oil and silicone. A lot of waxes contain silicone. You need to use a remover that is guaranteed to remove them. A chemical remover is used often, although from what I've been hearing a clay bar is a good option. You have to get that stuff off before you do any sanding. If you're gonna sand oxidation remember this will leave scratches and you should polish them out before applying wax :nono:. Polish contains abrasives if it doesn't it's not the polish I'm talking about. When you polish be careful around sharp edges and ridges they typically have a thinner coat of paint. Don't have experience doing this, find something to practice on ;) .  Make sure it has the same type of painted finish. A junkyard might be a good place to start and get a decent size hunk of metal. I would tell them what you intend to do and that after your done you'll bring it back. They may even help you find a cheap piece to work on. Smaller junkyards anyway. If you use rubbing compound,do by hand only. If you use a chemical restorer be very sure to follow the directions! That's my bit. Show us the before and after pics. Good luck on the restore. :cheers:


:welder: