Skip to main content
Topic: Removing the MC assembly is fun! (Read 2367 times) previous topic - next topic

Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Well today I started on converting my car over to regular vacuum brakes. After spending about 3 hours laying under my dash, that's not something I care to repeat anytime soon :disappoin  On the bright side, I did manage to get 3 of the nuts off the old assembly and back on the new booster (under the dash) with a ratchet, which helped keep me from going insane!

But, at least I got the hard part done (old MC assembly out, vac booster in), now I just gonna bench bleed the new MC, put in the brake lines, and bleed the system.

Just an FYI for anyone doing a conversion like this- on the Turbo Coupe proportioning valve, the front port is 5/16" and the rear one is 3/16". I expected the front one to be 1/4" like the spare mustang prop valve I have, but of course then I wouldn't have to run to the parts store again :rolleyes:

Also...the ABS master cylinder assembly weighs a TON! I figure I gotta be dropping a couple pounds by going to this vac booster/aluminum MC setup.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #1
i wouldnt mind hearing the complete rundown on this swap when everything is done.my brother is having some problems with his 88 tc brakes.been trying to talk him into this swap for a while now,but his main efforts are going towards big ugly wagon right now.

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #2
Actually, so far it's been pretty straightforward. The biggest problems I had were getting the old MC assembly out (because it's so huge and the brake fittings are a PITA to get at, and because it's so hard to get at everything under the dash) and then getting the new booster in (parts of the wiring harness kept getting behind the booster as I was trying to seat it against the firewall).

Other than that...there's plenty of room to fit the booster, you can tee it right off the vac tree (where the main vac like from the upper manifold hooks up) and there's plenty of room for the MC also. BTW- I'm using a '85 Town Car MC (1" bore), it's a 2 port so I'm doing a 2-port conversion on the car (I'm basing it off the way Maximum motorsports does their kit...you can download the instructions as a pdf on their website). Also I can list part numbers for the brake tees and adapters I used if anyone needs them.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #3
warned ya it wasn't fun:)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #4
Whenever you're getting under the dash to work,pull the seat.It only takes a minute,and then you can lay in the floor with your feet propped up on the rear seat,and it's a lot more comfortable.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #5
How do ya think I got up under there? My big ass sure as hell isn't gonna fit with the seat still in there.

I'd like to see somebody get at the MC mounting bolts without taking out the seat...you'd have to be some kind of contortionist.

Anyway I knew it wasn't gonna be fun, you scared me when you said those top two bolts would only come out with a wrench! Fortunately I only had to use a wrench on one, got the other with the ratchet + lots of extensions + a flex extension.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #6
Luckily I haven't had to do that (change the MC).I think if I ever have to,I'll just pull the dash and replace the heater core while I'm at it.Mine seems fine now,but as sure as I do big work under the dash for hours,the core will go bad.I've had to replace that before.Holy moly.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #7
My heater core is dead but I haven't changed it. I think removing the master cylinder assembly was a whole lot easier than taking the whole dash out.

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #8
Quote from: Red_LX
How do ya think I got up under there? My big ass sure as hell isn't gonna fit with the seat still in there.

I'd like to see somebody get at the MC mounting bolts without taking out the seat...you'd have to be some kind of contortionist.

Anyway I knew it wasn't gonna be fun, you scared me when you said those top two bolts would only come out with a wrench! Fortunately I only had to use a wrench on one, got the other with the ratchet + lots of extensions + a flex extension.

YEAH now I know what I have to go through to replace mine.  this is gonna be fun. I can fit though. Im tall but skinny, shouldnt be a problem. What MC should I buy? I need a good one.
"Real cars dont power the front wheels, they lift them"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1984 Mercury Cougar GS 5.0:cougarsmily: BBK Equal Length Shorties, BBK O/R X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks, Mustang GT Stainless Tailpipes, 18" Magnaflow Rolled Edge Tips. Turbo Coupe Hood, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. 17"x9" Cobra R's, Falken Ziex 255/50s, and 245/45s.
1984 Ford Thunderbird 3.8L "Drag Queen"
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 Lone Star Edition 5.7L Hemi 400hp, lex DOD14M Magnaflow retro-fit ler kit

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #9
The real problem I had was fitting my arms up under the dash while still being able to see what I was doing. It was a challenge, that's for sure. I found that disconnecting the brake pedal from the linkage made the MC nuts a little bit easier to get at. Also if you take the plastic panel below the steering column off, it allows you to get the extensions in there to get at the nuts.

Anyway, I got a rebuilt '85 Town Car MC (1" bore, all aluminum, but its the old style that doesn't have a plastic reservoir, $30 at advance auto parts) and I used a 5.0 Mustang booster. Since your car is an '84 you won't have to get all the metric-SAE adapters I did...

Garrett H.
'94 F250 XLT- 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo Diesel, 4" intake, 4" exhaust, 5" turnout stacks, manual hubs, etc.
'87 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
Engine, wheels, tires, etc!
Exhaust sound clip
Another clip

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #10
I think I will be doing this in the near future being that I still dont have any rear brakes  :toilet:

Re: Removing the MC assembly is fun!

Reply #11
I dont think there is an advance auto parts near here. I think its just oreilly and auto zone. See I want something that is gonna work and last. Im tired of not having brakes. and what about converting to rear disk but not 5 lug? Im not rich enough for 5 lug yet.
"Real cars dont power the front wheels, they lift them"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1984 Mercury Cougar GS 5.0:cougarsmily: BBK Equal Length Shorties, BBK O/R X-Pipe, Magnaflow Magnapacks, Mustang GT Stainless Tailpipes, 18" Magnaflow Rolled Edge Tips. Turbo Coupe Hood, Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. 17"x9" Cobra R's, Falken Ziex 255/50s, and 245/45s.
1984 Ford Thunderbird 3.8L "Drag Queen"
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 Lone Star Edition 5.7L Hemi 400hp, lex DOD14M Magnaflow retro-fit ler kit