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Topic: Engine cuts out when hot..... (Read 1348 times) previous topic - next topic

Engine cuts out when hot.....

Hi all, please can someone advise on an issue I'm having with my 87 XR7. It stalls when it's warm, especially when I change from park to reverse. Also cuts out when slowing down sometimes. Tick over is about 800rpm. Many thanks, Niki

 

Engine cuts out when hot.....

Reply #1
Welcome :)

Have you had a chance to pull trouble codes? If not I would start there. All you need to pull codes is a paper clip if your car has a functioning check engine light. See the following link for information on how to pull trouble codes:
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html

Here is a link to what those trouble codes mean (your car will have the two digit variety of trouble codes):
http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,849.0.html

Pull the codes and report back.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Engine cuts out when hot.....

Reply #2
Great, thanks for the welcome and advice. Will let you know what I find. Cheers

Engine cuts out when hot.....

Reply #3
Here is a quick vid I took Koer test 1987 tbird: http://youtu.be/9QSiS6wf7oU
 You can use a test light, 12 volt buzzer, volt meter, just about anything. Record the codes on your cell phone so you can go back and reference it. Do the key on engine off test first, the figure out the codes, and then do a key on engine running test just like in my video.

Always run codes first. The computer can tell you if it has any major issues and point you to things you would never think about. Post up what you find here, and we will be happy to help in any way we can.


More likely then not, you will have a few broken vacuum lines that raise the idle of the car. Look out for any vacuum leaks and replace where ever possible. Once that is handled, do a base idle reset. It is super easy and only requires a single flat head screwdriver. You simply unplug the IAC (idle air controller, near the throttle body inlet) and idle the car down until it is barely running, then plug it back in, that's it! If it will not stay running, or idle does not change when plugged back in, it is likely either a bad IAC or dirty throttle body.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com