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Topic: bleeding the master cylinder? (Read 14769 times) previous topic - next topic

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #30 –
I installed the Cobra MC today...... The car stops really well now. Still have to do some final front-rear adjusting, but its 1000% better then it was. Guess I'll save up for the larger brake upgrade for my next mod.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #31 –
Glad you got that figured out. Nothing worse than mushy brakes.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #32 –
I couldn't believe how big of a difference a new wheel cylinder, new pads and master cylinder changed my 86. Brake pedal still feels a bit vague at times, but i can lock up the tires and the car won't pull either direction.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #33 –
i'm going to bleed the lines again, just to be sure I got all the air out
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #34 –
Quote from: daminc;448318
i'm going to bleed the lines again, just to be sure I got all the air out

I bought one of those motive power bleeders, works great and it was well worth the $50-$60.. there's instructions on-line to make one too if your looking to save $$ or just feel like making your own.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #35 –
I never understood why you forced air bubbles from the highest point of the braking system to the lowest point instead of the other way around.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #36 –
Quote from: Bob;448334
I bought one of those motive power bleeders, works great and it was well worth the $50-$60.. there's instructions on-line to make one too if your looking to save $$ or just feel like making your own.

I think I'm gonna try the old school hold the pedal down method this time...I already gravity bled, and suction bled them before the MC change...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #37 –
whats really strange...is that then I got the old MC off and did a bench bleed to see if it had trapped air in it, I couldnt even push the piston in
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_137541156293768&ap=1

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #38 –
Nice it sounds like it really needed the master cylinder
I've always used the old school method with someone working the pedal while I work the bleeding screw and it's always worked great
I've thought about using those bleeders with the check valve though, they seem pretty nifty
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #39 –
So on this topic, I understand that my setup is just a little different but the problem is relatively the same so I'm interested to see what you guys have for suggestions. I have a 5 lug conversion. 95 mustang gt spindles up front with 97 gt axles in the back. I have the 97 gt rotors and calipers all the way around. I ran new brake lines the whole way up to the proportioning valve, which is also from the 97 gt. Now, I am running the factory 88 cougar Mc and booster. My pedal goes halfway to the floor before it starts applying. It will stop, but I need ample room. Obviously my Mc isn't cut out for the job. So which do I go with? A 97 mc? Even though my car isn't abs? Or should I go with a 95 gt mc? Or a cobra mc? And should I upgrade the booster as well? Any help is appreciated. Thank you
1988 Mercury cougar XR7- 302 bored .030 over, gt40p heads, F303, AlexsParts spring and seal kit, explorer upper and lower intake, 70mm tb, maf conversion, 75mm maf, fenderwell cai, 24 lb injectors, T5 conversion, bbk h pipe, Slp lm, 3.73 rear, 4 wheel disc conversion, 5 lug conversion. :D :D

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #40 –
Well if you went with a 97 GT master cylinder it would be a nice combo, problem is the 97 GT used a hydro boost setup so it would complicate things somewhat

A 95 GT master cylinder and a 93 cobra brake booster would result in basically a full brake setup from a 95 GT on your car, the 93 cobra brake booster would also be a bolt on to the master cylinder and your car
I believe the 95 GT master is 15/16" bore while the 93 cobra master is a 1" bore so the 93 cobra Mc will yield a firmer pedal with less fluid force, Vise versa with the 95 GT.

I would opt for a manual proportioning valve for the rear bias rather than stick with the one designed for a 97 GT Mustang

Also note that you'll need a 3-2 line kit for the MC and to fit the larger brake boosters you might need to either slot the holes on the firewall or bash in the shock tower to make it fit
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #41 –
Okay great. So why would I need a 3-2 conversion kit? Couldn't I just throw the adjustable valve in the rear line and gut the original pv?
1988 Mercury cougar XR7- 302 bored .030 over, gt40p heads, F303, AlexsParts spring and seal kit, explorer upper and lower intake, 70mm tb, maf conversion, 75mm maf, fenderwell cai, 24 lb injectors, T5 conversion, bbk h pipe, Slp lm, 3.73 rear, 4 wheel disc conversion, 5 lug conversion. :D :D

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #42 –
I think you might be able to actually
The way I setup my manual PV I just eliminated the stock one
IIRC I did that because my 3-2 kit came with the master cylinder I bought
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #43 –
Well, could I opt to stay with the 88 xr7 brake booster and just run a 93 cobra mc and adjustable pv, and just have a stiffer pedal?
1988 Mercury cougar XR7- 302 bored .030 over, gt40p heads, F303, AlexsParts spring and seal kit, explorer upper and lower intake, 70mm tb, maf conversion, 75mm maf, fenderwell cai, 24 lb injectors, T5 conversion, bbk h pipe, Slp lm, 3.73 rear, 4 wheel disc conversion, 5 lug conversion. :D :D

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #44 –
Okay, I will explain this again.  You now have SN95 brakes on the car which are the size that the V8/V6 cars run and you are running a booster and MC that were for the anemic Fox brakes...they do not mix well.  This is due to you changing the braking bias on the car as well as the needed fluid volume displacement by the MC and the overall force to work the brake pedal.  You can come this far so why not just get the 93 Cobra MC and 93 Cobra booster and make it work right?  This will also set you up for the Cobra brakes if you so choose later on down the road.

Gut the proportioning valve side of the combination valve and get the block off nut for the combination valve from Late Model Restoration Supply.  Install a manual proportioning valve on the rear brake line to dial in your brake bias.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp