bleeding the master cylinder?

Topic: bleeding the master cylinder? (Read 14772 times) previous topic - next topic

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #15 – April 16, 2015, 09:34:04 PM

Quote

I would also consider swapping in a 93 cobra brake booste

Agreed.
You can pick one up for about $100 from most places. You will need a 2 port to 3 port line addapter setup. I know you're quite resourceful and could most likely make your own if needed. MM sells a setup as well. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Master-Cylinder-Installation-Kit-1993-Cobra1994-95-GT-mc-in-1987-93-Mustang-P673.aspx

Cardone apparently carries a remanufactured version, however you would need to supply the reservoir. The reservoir carries a different part #, but I THINK you can use one from a standard fox Cougar/T-bird/Stang.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cardone-master-cylinder-remanufactured-10-3706/20351773-P#fragment-2

Dorman makes one as well. I believe it's new. It DOES come with the MC. Part # M390125
Best price I can find is Summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-m390125

$60 isn't bad at all.

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #16 – April 16, 2015, 10:37:45 PM

You don't have to run the adapter if you use a MC from a 85 Lincoln Towncar. SAE threads, 1" bore, and it bolts up. Granted its the older style of MC but you avoid making lines or buying a kit.

When you added the adjustable proportioning valve did you gut the proportioning valve side of the combination valve (brass block on the drivers side all the brake lines go into) or did you just eliminate it? You have to gut the proportioning valve side of it if you use the adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

Darren

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #17 – April 17, 2015, 08:30:21 AM

Quote from: Aerocoupe;447195

You don't have to run the adapter if you use a MC from a 85 Lincoln Towncar. SAE threads, 1" bore, and it bolts up. Granted its the older style of MC but you avoid making lines or buying a kit.

When you added the adjustable proportioning valve did you gut the proportioning valve side of the combination valve (brass block on the drivers side all the brake lines go into) or did you just eliminate it? You have to gut the proportioning valve side of it if you use the adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes.

Darren

I removed the the stock block... I gutted it before, but I still wasnt getting rear brakes, so I just decided to get rid of it al together... I wouldnt mind an older style MC...
First I think I'm going to try the other one I have. If I still have a problem, I'll have to try another MC

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #18 – April 19, 2015, 12:19:29 PM

Just to clarify you have the 10" brakes up front, basically TC brakes in the rear, stock MC and stock booster with the factory combination valve removed and a manual proportioning valve installed, correct?

Darren

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #19 – April 30, 2015, 08:42:30 AM

for what its worth,,
all wheels **except** the front driver go through the stock proportioning valve which to this day still I don't understand.

even If you added a couple hundred pounds of steel, the brake system should be sufficient or safe feeling yet everyone here seems to have the same problems with stopping,, atleast all still running stock ,, which leads me to believe a brake booster might fix some of our issues.

ive never had to change a brake booster but also , I don't understand really what it does other than its very name which "boosts" the brakes,, maybe that's bad ?

I would start over again and bleed at each wheel,,, I use to think that you could stop when you heard no more air ,, that aint the case actually.. after the air is out a half dozen more bleeds on each zirk fitting especially for a system that's been disconnected for a while. My son and I will have to deal with this as well.

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #20 – April 30, 2015, 10:09:36 AM

IMO, until the anemic Fox brakes off a Fox car have been swapped over to the base SN95 brakes (I'm not even bringing up the Cobra/Mach 1 brakes) a person thinks that the Fox brakes are sufficient. When the swap is made over to the SN95 brakes it is very apparent that the Fox brakes were at best but when that is all that is offered and a person does not know better it becomes adequate. The Fox brakes were never meant for these cars with 100, 200, 300 more hp than the factory put in them but yet we will go and spend countless hours and $$$ on the hp, wheels, stereo, etc. but more often than not the brakes remain the same which makes no sense to me.

Brakeology 101:

http://www.winbrake.com/training_autofundamentalsbrakes.html

Darren

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #21 – May 07, 2015, 07:50:37 AM

Quote from: Aerocoupe;447283

Just to clarify you have the 10" brakes up front, basically TC brakes in the rear, stock MC and stock booster with the factory combination valve removed and a manual proportioning valve installed, correct?

Darren

correct.... I just ordered a cobra MC. it may be time to do some upgrading anyway..

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #22 – May 07, 2015, 09:01:41 AM

If the booster and master were still available for the TEVES system in the Mark VII for cheap I'd swap a Mark VII brake setup into the Cougar yesterday.... The brakes on my Mark inspire MUCH more confidence then any other factory fox body setup.

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #23 – May 07, 2015, 10:34:57 AM

To make your system work you and if you want to stay four lug then move up to the 11" front rotors and use the stock style 60mm calipers from the likes of an 87-93 5.0 Fox Mustang. From there install the 93 Cobra MC and 93 Cobra booster. This will match up well with your rear TC brakes and give you the exact same brakes that the 93 Cobra came with so your brakes should be really good. I would also suggest installing a manual proportioning valve and gutting the proportioning valve section of the stock combination valve if you still have that installed so you can fine tune the brake bias. If you still feel that the brakes are not quite up to snuff then work your way up to some better brake pads like the Hawk HPS. The fronts would be the HB263F.650 and the rears should be the HB580F.627 but I would call Hawk and verify. I run them on both my cars and love the feel and low brake dust for the added stopping power.

I am not trying to sway you one way or the other. I have had just about every imaginable stock Ford brake configuration between my two cars and I am going off of experience. If I had to do it all over again I would have just moved up to the SN95 GT parts and been done with it. When I had the stock SN95 GT brakes on my Coupe with the '99 PBR calipers and the Hawk HPS pads that thing would put you through the windshield if you did not have your seat belt on. I stepped up to the Cobra setup due to brake fade when having a little too much fun on the twisties.

Darren

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #24 – May 07, 2015, 02:43:06 PM

Darren, what car would the 4 lug 11" rotors, and calipers be off of?

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #25 – May 07, 2015, 05:36:45 PM

Sorry about that, I have added that info into my previous post. Basically the '93 Cobra used existing brake parts from the 87-93 5.0 Fox Mustangs and the 87-88 TC. The front brakes were the 87-93 5.0 Fox Mustang 11" rotors and 60mm single piston calipers. The rear brakes were off the 87-88 TC which are 10" calipers and I believe are 45mm single piston calipers. The brake booster and the MC were the only thing that was specific to the Cobra in that it did not come from the Fox Mustangs, Birds, or Cougars.

You could also opt to add the 73mm single piston calipers to this system which the 93 Cobra MC will support. If you decide to go this route make sure you order the 73mm calipers that have the steel piston and not the ceramic one. Maximum Motorsports also sells stainless steel caliper sleeves but I'm not sure how much a street car would need these or the calipers with a steel piston. I put all of it on my Coupe and again I am really hard on brakes so that was why.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Stainless-Steel-Brake-Caliper-Sleeves-1987-93-P666.aspx

I will tell you that I had the SVO calipers, MM SS sleeves, Performance Friction pads, and 11" rotors up front on my Coupe with stock drums in the rear and it stopped okay. This was all with the Mark VII rotors and Ranger axles for the cheapo five lug conversion running 97 Cobra wheels. I swapped over to the brakes off of a 1995 Mustang GT but I swapped over to the 99+ PBR calipers and it was like the car never had brakes before. The reason for using the 99+ PBR calipers is that they are dual piston calipers and have a higher clamping force than the 94-98 single piston units.

Darren

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #26 – May 07, 2015, 06:43:57 PM

the spindles will have to be changed too?

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #27 – May 07, 2015, 06:57:58 PM

nevermind, I was just at coolcats... guess its time to start collecting parts

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #28 – May 07, 2015, 09:27:33 PM

You got it man. IMO the 93 Cobra setup was what should have been the stock 5.0 brakes and the 5.0 brakes should have been the stock four cylinder stuff. Good luck with it, I think you will be more than happy.

Darren

bleeding the master cylinder?

Reply #29 – May 07, 2015, 11:01:06 PM

thanks for the help and info