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Topic: Carb curiosity..... (Read 7647 times) previous topic - next topic

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #15
Quote from: vinnietbird;440154

-Maybe a 6AL box....(unsure of this for sure)


If you buy one of these, try to do it first, and install it with the EFI setup. It may help if your issue is ignition related.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #16
I've never even looked at one. Is it plug and play? Lay some details on me.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #17
Quote from: vinnietbird;440159
I've never even looked at one. Is it plug and play? Lay some details on me.

It's pretty close. You can buy a harness to plug it directly into your factory wires.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/msd-6a-digital-ignition-7995-install.html

MSD 6AL Ignition controller
MSD 8874 Harness
MSD 8910EIS Tach adapter
1988 Thunderbird Sport

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #18
My "fun " cars are carb....wouldn't have any thing else. My daily drivers (Mercedes,Ridgeline) are EFI and I wouldn't change it. I know my way around a carb and dist pretty good so tuning is not an issue ( I actually built a 4 corner idle 750 from scratch back in the 80s). If you have to rely on locals to tune a carb, stick with EFI.
84 COUGAR/90 HO, 1.7RRs, performer RPM,700DP, equal length shorties, stainless EXH ,T-5,Hurst pro-billet, KC clutch, 8.8/ 4.10s, line-lok, bla ,bla, bla.
71 COMET/289,351w heads, 12.5 TRWs, 750DP, Liberty TL, 9"/6.00s, 11.9x @112 , bla,bla,bla.

Never shoot your mouth off, unless your brain is loaded! ....I may get older, but I'll never grow up!....If you're not laughing, you're not living!  :laughing:

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #19
Relying on a "local" for carb advice can't be as bad as having to rely on those living 900 miles from me for EFI help. There's nobody around here who deals with modified EFI cars. Other than the hood and paint, I built the car, and some things I excel at, some things just aren't my thing. Electrical diagnosing, and this engine issue. The rest I have pretty much controlled. This whole carb idea has different reasons behind it. The idea of my scooped hood actually doing what that scoop was designed for really appeals to me, the cleanliness under the hood, and once it's dialed in, the simplicity of a carb. I know a carb needs to be tuned and dialed in, but once it is, it is. On my carbed cars in my life....77,78,78 Thunderbird, three 76 Grand Prix's, 79 Cougar, 74 GMC truck, NONE of them ever needed carb work, they all started and ran great in any weather. So being without EFI is not a scary thought. And carburetors have come a long way. So, as I stated, it's research. Finding out the work involved, the wiring, the mods and what can go and what remains.

Again, this thread is research, not a debate on EFI verses carburetors. As I stated, IF I do this, it'll be next summer. Time to acquire parts and formulate a plan of attack.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #20
For the money, carbs are quicker and much less to go wrong. You give up driveability if you want max power, but a good tune can get you best of both worlds.

I learned to drive on a 1982 Mazda pick up truck. Drove it quite a bit for about 4 years. We swing in temps from -15 to 110 almost every year and have elevations that range from about 1000 above sea level to over 10,000 feet that can be done in a few hours drive time. I never once had to tune the carb. It had a choke but i rarely used it. A couple pumps of the throttle and it fired right up, once warm ran fine, and could get 30mpg out of the little inline 4.

Overall, i feel performance is way easier with a carb and as a weekend toy would keep you plenty happy.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #21
I was trying to find a link to Jason fletcher web site, carbedford. Seems to have been taken down.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #22
Vinnie , if not mentioned already , you will need to hook up a kick down lever/cable for the trans. From the carb !!!!
Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.
:birdsmily: :birdsmily: :birdsmily::birdsmily: 
  [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
:birdsmily: :birdsmily: :birdsmily::birdsmily:
1983 base model,1969 302 (originally a v6),upraded c5,currently 30,441 original miles.

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #23
Not with a t-5.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #24
Quote from: Haystack;440189
Not with a t-5.

This is true...... I forgot he was running a manual !!!!
Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.
:birdsmily: :birdsmily: :birdsmily::birdsmily: 
  [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
:birdsmily: :birdsmily: :birdsmily::birdsmily:
1983 base model,1969 302 (originally a v6),upraded c5,currently 30,441 original miles.

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #25
My opinion is strictly personal beliefs that one should not back date the technology on a car unless there are no other options. I didn't settle for the carb excuse on my 85 CFI 5.0 in 1997 and to this day still don't think its a logical swap. Spend more money to achieve less driveablity and less MPG.

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #26
If I sold the EFI equipment on my car that I have now , it would bring in enough to cover all costs and maybe a bit more. Now, like I said, I'm researching the idea. I would really like to have a factory-ish air cleaner for ram air mated to the hood in a proper Ford way. I think it would be cool. Miles per gallon isn't really the top priority, or I would have a bone stock 5.0 and AOD in it with the 2.73 gears. I am a believer that a good carb set up is very reliable. I also stated that this is not an EFI verses carb thread. It really doesn't matter which is better. I'm seeking details and infor mation on the swap. Wiring to keep the factory gauges and other non-intake parts working as they should. I drive two miles to work, two miles home. That's 90% of my driving, so in the end, I could care less if the Sort dropped a few miles per gallon. Once I get all the info I need, have it all written down, the research the parts and cost for everything, I will decide then what I want to do. SO, I'm taking in all I can on what I initially asked about.......

What parts?
 What work needs to be done?
 What parts of the harness go?
What parts of the harness stay?
How do I keep the gauges active?

I'm trying to make a nice little planned out manual for myself before I decide what route I choose to travel. I appreciate all the input. Thanks a lot.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #27
You will also need a throttle bracket and throttle cable.  I had a Lokar cable and CSI bracket on my car when it was a carbed 302 now that it is a 351 with carb it sits a touch taller so I had to get another Lokar cable as the other one was about two inches too short.  I also switched to a different bracket as I liked how they did the return springs on it as it helped clear the fogger setup versus the way I had them installed with the CSI bracket.  I did some research via Google and you can run the EFI pump with a carb setup you just need a specific regulator to do it.  I think it will also take some fitting adapters to reuse the stock fuel lines.

I'm up in Tulsa and run to Lawton on a pretty regular basis and have my injected 331 Coupe so I know a thing or two about fuel injection so there is someone closer than 900 miles.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #28
Thanks darren. Yep, you are a lot closer than 900 miles. LOL.

As far as ables and brackets and all, I haven't taken a lot of time yet to look at it all. I will, though. Looking at carbs and intakes as well. I am trying to formulate an "instruction manual" to do this job so IF I do it, I have all my info ready, parts list planned out, and ready to go. Like the exact way to keep the gauges functioning, what will be effected by the loss of the ECM, what all goes away, the proper fuel set up from front to back....etc.

I am still dedicating my outside time to getting the EFI to run right. Still have to run codes and all. Time is super limeted. But that's another thread. This is carb stuff.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Carb curiosity.....

Reply #29
Quote from: TOM Renzo;440132
OBD1 Ford systems as like Chevy and Chrysler are a bit to be desired. They are batch fire

The EEC-IV system/ecu installed in the 86-88 Cougar/Thunderbird, 86-92 Lincoln Mark VII, 86-93 Ford Mustang, and 86-91 Crown Vic/Grand Marq/Town Car is in fact SEFI.  Under CRANKING conditions only are they in a batch mode.  When running they are SEFI.

More than you ever wanted to know about that HERE

The NRUN scalr tells the PCM at what RPM the switchover is.



My opinion:  Keep the EFI.  Once you get it settled you'll be happy.  Not only that, but sometimes it can be an easier sell should you need/decide to part with the car someday.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!