Need some help please

Topic: Need some help please (Read 3523 times) previous topic - next topic

Need some help please

June 06, 2014, 10:17:12 AM

Was wondering if anyone can help me find out or tell me what this part is. And why there would be a ticking noise coming from or underneath it somewhere.. I searched the part number but i couldnt find much e1se-9f491-f4a.. Would it be possible to delete this all together? Sorry if its a noob queston but id really like to fix it myself i dont want to take it to a shop. Its kinda like a ticking sound but more like a flapping like a bag flapping real fast from the wind lol... Couple guys said its a vacuum hose but so far i cant find anything wrong and it really sounds like its coming from this or even under it maybe. Any help would be awesome seriously.. Its a 5.0 by the way

Need some help please

Reply #1 – June 06, 2014, 12:28:30 PM

It's part of the smog-pump setup, yes it can be eliminated if you live where there's no E-check.

Need some help please

Reply #2 – June 06, 2014, 12:37:01 PM

I'm not familiar with your system, but is that a hose nipple that's lost its hose on the right side of the valve (lower picture, next to the hose clamp?

Do you still have the thermactor pump and the rest of the emissions system? Are you required to keep your car emissions-compliant?

The E1SE- part number is listed as "Valve Assembly-EGR Vacuum Control", and the -9F491- comes up as "thermactor control", so this is part of your smog pump/emissions system. A lot of early emissions systems have been sped long ago, and Ford has obsoleted these valves years ago, so replacements may be difficult to find. If you need to keep the system, you may be able to remove the part and clean the valve mechanism with carb cleaner or similar. That may help with the valve "flutter". Otherwise...

Need some help please

Reply #3 – June 06, 2014, 12:59:36 PM

Yea the smog pump and everything is still there minus the ac. Is it possible to just remove all this stuff and keep the pump on the belt? I read that taking the smog pump out will ruin my cats. And the hose has been off since i got the car. Im not worried about emissions

Need some help please

Reply #4 – June 06, 2014, 01:32:47 PM

Just checked and theres no lines going to the cat so im not sure why its even on there still...

Need some help please

Reply #5 – June 06, 2014, 06:51:08 PM

From what I remember when I deleted mine I just got a shorter belt but that's been over 20 years ago.

Darren

Need some help please

Reply #6 – June 06, 2014, 07:29:22 PM

Shorter belt and remove the pump and diverters. Normally i do not do that because it does not harm anything and does reduce emissions drastically. Also i have a license to worry about. But it can be removed and it wont do a thing to the cats. have a great weekend guys

Need some help please

Reply #7 – June 06, 2014, 09:02:26 PM

Agreed but you have to admit that the emissions are bullshiznit with this setup. I removed all the smog gear on my '93 and installed 3-way converters with no other emissions gear and passed smog in Houston. I would bet money that if the OP is pollution conscious that all the smog equipment on the car could be removed and 3-way converters installed it would be better than what is currently on the car. I may be wrong but I kind of doubt it.

Darren

Need some help please

Reply #8 – June 06, 2014, 10:38:53 PM

The 3 way cat would add another chemical removal NOX. But an air pump can remove so much more HC&CO than a cat it is something i would leave alone. A properly working air injection system can remove 5-8% CO and app 400-500 PPM of HC. We have seen this numerous times while performing state emission tests. This can be easily verified by blocking off the injected air and taking readings on a running car. Most modern OBD2 emission systems include supplemental air injected air to supplement the cat and speed up it's light off time. The newer cars incorporate supplemental exhaust air injection with an electric motor and compressor in stead of a belt driven unit. Hope this is helpful. Have a great weekend guys.

Bellow is a setup i use to get some cars through an ASM 25 25 emission test required in CT for non OBD2 vehicles. This kit works real nice.

http://www.1aauto.com/2000-chevy-blazer-s10-air-pump/y-mo-c/2000-37-114

Need some help please

Reply #9 – June 15, 2014, 01:09:03 PM

I have the em. readout of my cat when I first got it,had to pass back then. Not long ago, I had it sniffed,just to see. This is with the car as is now. At idle it not even close to what it was,it would flunk. At 1200 and above rpm it's cleaner. Since this car doesn't idle much I feel I'm pretty green!!!

Need some help please

Reply #10 – June 15, 2014, 10:18:13 PM

That is the diverter valve for the air pump system. It directs the air from the air pump to either the catalytic converter or the tube connected to the back of the cylinder heads. It can be removed without any consequence to the way the car runs but the air pump should be removed along with it. You will have to install a shorter belt if the vehicle is new enough to have a serpentine belt which runs all of the accessories. If it is an earlier model with the thin belt which just runs the smog pump then just remove it. Removing the air pump will definitely prevent the cats from doing their job properly and will prevent you from passing an emissions test. I would check and make sure the check valves at the opposite ends of the hoses from the diverter valves are good. If they are leaking and allowing exhaust gases to be pushed up to the diverter valve it may cause it to make some strange noises. These check valves should still be available and are pretty cheap. These check valves are there to allow air from the pump to go through them but keep the exhaust gases from going up to the diverter valve as the heat would damage the valve and pump.

Need some help please

Reply #11 – June 16, 2014, 12:10:41 AM

It should pass fine without the smog pump. I've done it at least twice.

first time i had it lock up on me and ran a short belt. they tested it, passed me, then failed it because it was bypassed.

second time was my 87 bird on a dyno test in winter of 2012. Car always gave me codes 44 and 94, but flew through emissions so i never bothered looking into it. both the air injection tube was rotted away.before it connected to the y-pipe, and those stupid plastic peices in the hoses were all melted. guessing one.of the one way check.valves failed, letting exhaust back.through and melting the plastic peices.

I'm tempted to hollow out my cats completely and see if it passes.

Need some help please

Reply #12 – June 16, 2014, 05:35:02 AM

Passing a tailpipe test is something you need to know in the state you live in. Some are visual as well as sampling. Some are just numbers and those numbers vary state to state. Some are ASM 25-25 some are idle 15 MPH and 25 mph. Depending on the state the AIR REACTIVE SYSTEM must work. This is a roll of the dice as to weather it will pass. I have seen many a car Fail without a pump. It depends on many factors for example as to how efficient ones CAT is working and the condition of the engine. Simply put it all comes down to this. Ford installed those pumps for a reason. That reason is to make the vehicle emission compliance. Nothing works better to clean up an exhaust reading like a pump. Once again remove it and the numbers skyrocket in some cases not all. Have a good Monday Guys!

Need some help please

Reply #13 – June 16, 2014, 12:33:17 PM

Passing an emissions test would depend on whether it is just an idle test or if the car was run on a dyno and samples taken at various rpm points. I believe it would probably pass if it was just an idle test. All this does vary state to state and even within the state. Here in PA there are three different emission tests. It depends on where you live. If the tube down to the cat isn't hooked up, as he said, and it is open that may be causing the noise he is hearing.

Need some help please

Reply #14 – June 16, 2014, 07:21:07 PM

We did a roller test at 15 and 25mph on my first bird and about two years ago it changed to an idle of 1500rpm and 2500rpm test.

My own honest opinion is that it doesn't matter as long as the car runs well and is semi maintained. i have pictures of both my rotted out smog pipe going to the cats and my plastic peices in the hoses being melted completely. it was all just there for show.