Fuel Tank & Fuel Line Replacement

April 19, 2014, 08:39:12 AM

I'm new to the board and just replaced the fuel tank and pump in my '88 tbird. Since the parts chase wasn't the most straightforward, I thought I'd post what I did and part numbers for anyone else who might be interested. When I bought the car, it had a "gas leak in the back." It also had a surge at idle that drove me nuts (more on that later).

Dropped the old tank, and this is what I saw. Seriously, how long had the previous owner driven with fuel lines that were 90% restricted? That **might** be an issue

The old tank wasn't in that bad of shape, but new tanks can be had for around $100 all over the place, and replacing fuel tanks is a major PITA, so I only wanted to do it once. I thought as long as I had it down, I would replace the tank, the pump, the fuel lines, and the straps. I went ahead and upgraded to a high volume pump while I had the tank off.

Here's the parts list:
Tank: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7TW96/
Straps: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S5CG/
Fuel Pump: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFHF22/ (Note, it differs vastly from the pictures, but it will work with the 'bird)
Filler Grommet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMEUUJ4/

For the fuel lines - this sucks to focure out and it took me a couple of tries to get it right, as the connectors aren't the same on the sending unit and the chassis (really ford?). The doorman repair kits are long enough, but just barely. If you have to cut anything off the 18" line, it won't fit right. Here's what you'll need to replace both the fuel line and the return line:

Fuel Line: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIR1NY/
Press this end on to that line: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E323JO/

Return Line: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIV4P0/
Press this end on to the return line: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3021A/

I used the Kaulk Gun method to press the ends on the line: http://aurorah.proboards.com/thread/25811 Take your time, and be sure you lubricate the fitting well so that it slips right in.

When replacing the fuel line, I found it easier to put new ends on the wiring that was on the sending unit, and adapt that to the fitting than the other way around. Either way, you're crimping things to make it look factory.

When putting it all back together, lubricate the fuel grommet with some light oil. It will fight you. Take your time when tightening the tank straps as the fuel lines will want to go straight out of the sending unit, which will result in them being crushed under a seam when you tighten the tank. Pre-bend the straps to match the ones that you took off, so that you're not fighting it under the car.

If you get it all together, you'll see that the lines are just barely long enough. Slowly work the nylon into the curves that match the contour you need. You don't want to kink the hose and have to replace it, especially after getting the tank back in place. I saw the tight fit as a good thing, as I don't need all that nylon hanging in my way anyway. If all looks good, put some fuel in it and check for leaks. If you're as lucky as I was, the "idle surging" goes away, too!

Good luck-

Geoff