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Topic: Having some real bad luck, help. (Read 4689 times) previous topic - next topic

Having some real bad luck, help.

Ok so I was replacing the Orings on my injectors since one of them was leaking right
Got them all on the car and I took off the distributor cap to move the spark plug wires out of the way, I seen that it needed to be replaced since the center contact inside the cap was damaged.
I put on a good one I had laying around, got everything buttoned up and started the car
It obviously wasn't running right and was misfiring
I finally came up with the conclusion that the rotor in the dist must have been shorter than what was needed for the new cap that I put on. I put on a different rotor and it finally started up fine and sounded like all cylinders were firing correctly but now my car has a very loud knock from what I think is the head/valvetrain
Could some really have been damaged from the misfiring that happened?
I just had to step away so I could calm down, anybody ever had anything like this happen?
Really hoping it isn't something serious but I'm kind of doubting that
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #1
well !

that chunk of  "the button" went somewhere.

get your rotor button off
get the round fin thingy off that passes through the pick up module down in the dizzy,,  mark it so you you dont put it on wrong cause i think you can.
see if you got garbage down on the magetic pick up.

other than thay.. id say its spark related... its gotta be,, and im just reaching here.

all you did was change out the cap and button.

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #2
Is it possible you have two wires in the wrong firing order?
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #3
I will see if there is anything in dizzy, as of right now it sounds like all cylinders are firing and it runs fine except for that knock
I'm still not driving it around because the knock is too loud for me to think my engine is just fine.

Quote from: vinnietbird;428547
Is it possible you have two wires in the wrong firing order?

Thats what i thought was wrong as well at first but i checked and the order was correct.
After I swapped the rotor to match the new used cap it ran just fine minus the knock...

heres a vid
http://youtu.be/XOgrfc-4-Ss
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #4
well, then id say your spark plug wires need looked at,,, you may have sparated the metal clip from the conductor in the plug wire,, making spark delivery difficult or not at all.

lack of spark on a cylinder will generate a knocking noise

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #5
When it's running pull each plug wire off one at a time. The knock may go away or diminish a bit, you may find what cylinder is the issue. Possible could anything fell in the injector hole and ishiznitting on top of the piston against the head?
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #6
DO NOT OPEN CIRCUIT A TFI IGNITION SYSTEM BY REMOVING WIRES FROM A RUNNING ENGINE. You will FRY the TFI module and PIP.


OK it is a 2,3 the video you posted clearly sounds like a ROCKER arm issue. NOW if you were turning the engine over without it starting those HLA lifters bleed down. Then when you start them up they need time to pump up. That sound is classic lifter bleed down. NOW????? Look at the injectors did any of the tips fall off. If so and this is just a long shot it is inside the engine. That is the only other issue . BUT in all my years i have never seen this happen. Some say it can but i dought it. Your engine sounds like a collapsed lifter situation. Just a question there is only 2 2.3 DIZZYS for that setup. The GM STYLE and Ford and they are totally different rotors. Cap is a wash. I can not figure what you did with the DIZZY?? Either way remove the cap and make sure nothing fell down in to the dizzy body. Could have> But that engins sounds like a classic lifter bleed down. Run it to see if the lifters PUMP UP. Those 2.3 Fords are very strong!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #7
I've been doing that for years, never fried a tfi or anything. I'm sure you know. I didn't see the video till now either Does sound like top end.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #8
WRONG WAY TO DO IT. Just because something is dun does not mean it is correctly dun!!  Not to mention it could be dangerous for the guy performing thisjust saying. There is right ways and wrong ways to do things.

If you like i can take a current graph from my scope open circuiting Secondary side wiring!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #9
Quote from: TOM Renzo;428639
WRONG WAY TO DO IT. Just because something is dun does not mean it is correctly dun!!  Not to mention it could be dangerous for the guy performing thisjust saying. There is right ways and wrong ways to do things.

If you like i can take a current graph from my scope open circuiting Secondary side wiring!!

No need.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #10
Open circuiting the secondary side of an ignition system increased the current draw in the primary by 10X the normal running current. And especially the TFI system which every ford guy knows is marginal at best when working correctly. Also the risk of shock is not something to take lightly. As a TFI system will produce 60K of secondary voltage open circuited. Years back with wimpy Point systems we used to do this but not on a modern electronically controlled car. Just passing on info . No, Worry's!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #11
Wow I am stumped
I found out that cylinder #4 is not firing
I tested the spark plugs, wires, injectors, everything and it all checks out good
All injectors are getting voltage and working properly
Compression #'s : 137 , 140, 110 , 133 firing order: 1,3,4,2
But these pressure numbers were very similar to my previous compression test so I don't think this has anything to do with the prob

The only thing that comes to mind is a mechanical problem

I just don't know how this problem came up from me not even driving the car, my car has been in the driveway the whole time
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout:

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #12
Hows the timing belt? Might it have slipped a tooth? Also check the distributor for play or shaft waller. And also they have a tendency to chew drive gears. Might be somthing totally stupid just ideas

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #13
A follower fell off the cam. That noise is a rocker issue plain and simple. Pull the valve cover. That noise is classic cam or slider problems!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Having some real bad luck, help.

Reply #14
Yea that's definitely possible
I pulled the VC off but didn't see anything out of the ordinary
Perhaps a rocker arm is bent or maybe a tweaked valve Idk
Last night I pretty much ruled out everything except mechanical, it's getting air, fuel, and spark, even replaced the timing belt since it needed it and timing it on point
Still making that awful noise so I will take off the cam and see if anything is out of whack
1987 T-Bird TC: 5-Spd, 5-lug conv., CHE Rear CAs, '04 Cobra wheels and 13" Brakes, Vac Assist conv: '93 Cobra BB/MC & Wilwood PV, Gutted/Knived Intakes, T3 turbo, RFE6 Mani, Stinger 3" Exhaust & Oil Feed, 255HP Walbro, Kirban AFPR, RR Cam, Esslinger Cam gear and Round Tooth Conv., Gillis Boost Valve, Speedway Dual Valve Spring,  K&N, 130a 3g Alt conv., 140mph Speedo
Running Better Than Ever :burnout: