Which cam?

Topic: Which cam? (Read 5297 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #15 – January 14, 2014, 02:06:38 PM

All good points folks...I don't feel that my basically stock (with Ford parts, nonetheless) is in need of a custom cam...but if or when I ever put together a nice windsor with more cubes than factory, I'll go balls out with an ed curtis custom.

Seems a lot of guys use the TFS-1 cam with the combo I've got planned (just have to put it all together...waiting on warm weather, unheated shop, and my basp00get doesn't have an exterior door yadda yadda).
If I can make 275 horse, that's great, if I make 290, that's good too. But for that matter, it's all moot, it'll probably never see a dyno..I just want something that's reliable, fast, and has good stuff inside that is proven by thousands of other forum guys to work well.

And I've not even looked really at the power levels of a 5.0 with ported P's, Cobra (possibly Explorer) intake, bigger TB, BBK 1515 headers, and a full 2.5" exhaust with flowmasters. It will obviously have mass air, and has the smog pump removed and no egr.

Which cam?

Reply #16 – January 24, 2014, 12:44:15 PM

Quote from: TurboCoupe50;427241

Yep for sure...

What not being noticed is I said TRICK FLOW heads with their cam... Those cams are matched to the heads and AFAIK NO ONE is offering the same grinds(yeah I know different suppliers offer the exact cams as a one fits all)... Maybe I'm all wet here but sure seems to me if TW can design a head, they surely can supply a good cam to be used with it...

Yeah I'm probably gonna hear a custom cam will produce 10 more Hp than a Stage 1 and then I pull out a TW Stage 2 and best your cam by 10 Hp, where does it end??? I have slightly over $1000 in cam and heads combined(cam was $139), and I'm happy...

Tom, I swapped out the stage 1 for a custom grind with new pushrods for proper geometry geometry and new springs/retainers to support the added lift. Same heads, intake and shortblock. Power is better all over, especially down low. If power had been exactly the same the increase in mileage alone would have been worth it.
The stage 1 cam is a great cam at a great price. I think it fits better with more converter than either you or I have or with a manual transmission though.

Which cam?

Reply #17 – January 24, 2014, 03:00:03 PM

I've wondered how much more fun/how much power my Thunderbird could gain with a more aggressive cam or a custom cam. Problem is I really have no desire to tear the engine open to swap it out. I guess I'm too lazy and I sure as hell don't want to pay someone to do it for me.

With the cam I've got in the Thunderbird now the engine made 235 at the wheels with GT40Ps and a 65mm TB. It trapped 93 mph in the quarter. With the Edelbrock heads and a 70mm TB it's gone 98 mph in the quarter. Both times were on street tires. I still find it hard to believe that a head swap gained 50hp but both those runs were on days with similar conditions. Actually the run with Edelbrock heads was made on a warmer day (about 5* warmer). I keep wondering if the car would pick up even more with a different cam but again I'm too lazy to swap it out

Which cam?

Reply #18 – January 24, 2014, 04:13:48 PM

Quote from: V8Demon;427836

Tom, I swapped out the stage 1 for a custom grind with new pushrods for proper geometry geometry and new springs/retainers to support the added lift. Same heads, intake and shortblock. Power is better all over, especially down low. If power had been exactly the same the increase in mileage alone would have been worth it.
The stage 1 cam is a great cam at a great price. I think it fits better with more converter than either you or I have or with a manual transmission though.

That's why I'm ditching the 2600 and going with a 3500 stall in the fresh AOD behind the 331...

Which cam?

Reply #19 – January 24, 2014, 04:32:44 PM

I should mention I've got a T5, but I am going to put an AOD back in. I'd wondered if a 3500 stall would be too much. I was thinking a 3200 would be good, but if a 3500 would be better...

I've got 3.55 rear right now, would like to eventually get a 4.10 set in...but that's later on.

Which cam?

Reply #20 – January 25, 2014, 10:35:28 AM

Quote from: TurboCoupe50;427851

That's why I'm ditching the 2600 and going with a 3500 stall in the fresh AOD behind the 331...

I hear ya. I get about 2800 out of mine and with the old stage 1 I think 3500 would have been a PERFECT fit.

Quote

I should mention I've got a T5, but I am going to put an AOD back in. I'd wondered if a 3500 stall would be too much. I was thinking a 3200 would be good, but if a 3500 would be better...

You know the old saying about not fearing the gear? I think there should be another about stall speed. Almost EVERYONE wants to go lower than is needed.

THe 5r55S in my Mustang is a PERFECT example. Hell, most companies for aftermarket converters can't even list the correct stall speed from the STOCK converter.
I'm gonna buy a 2500 stall from you? Considering stock is 2800-3000 according to FORD (It's actually a nice piece - just gives up around 500 hp) I think I'll shop elsewhere.

As my car sits right now and with the couple more things I'd like to do, I fell 36-3800 would be a good fit.

Which cam?

Reply #21 – January 25, 2014, 10:48:17 AM

Quote from: V8Demon;427883

I Considering stock is 2800-3000 according to FORD (It's actually a nice piece - just gives up around 500 hp) I think I'll shop elsewhere.

WWWWWWWWHAT!!!??? Holy hell. Now how could they put that in a factory stock car and A) get acceptable city mileage and B) not have people complaining about the rubber-band feeling of the car outside of lockup? What does it engage lockup in 2nd gear onward? Heh

Which cam?

Reply #22 – January 25, 2014, 12:37:33 PM

Either way the T-5 or the AOD will give up the ghost behind a healthy 351W unless you are gonna drop some coin on them and unless you can build that AOD yourself you might as well stuff a Tremec's 600 or T-56 behind it.

Just remember 302 parts in and on a 351 equals 302 power.

Darren

Which cam?

Reply #23 – January 25, 2014, 04:31:20 PM

Quote from: ZondaC12;427886

WWWWWWWWHAT!!!??? Holy hell. Now how could they put that in a factory stock car and A) get acceptable city mileage and B) not have people complaining about the rubber-band feeling of the car outside of lockup? What does it engage lockup in 2nd gear onward? Heh

Stock redline is something like 6000 and that's all ECU limited. The internals will take a lot more. I have mine @ 6600 right now. Car really had no rubber band feeling in stock form. Variable cam timing has a bit to do with that I would imagine.

Hell, I don't have any rubber band feel in the Cougar..... In fact only time I did was when I had finished the motor the first time and thrown it back together while I still had the stock converter. I knew I was gonna need one, but had ZERO clue as to how much. Threw it together and drove it to get a half a clue.

BTW-- Trick Flows recommendations for stall speed are low too

Which cam?

Reply #24 – January 25, 2014, 06:03:57 PM

Quote from: ZondaC12;427886

WWWWWWWWHAT!!!??? Holy hell. Now how could they put that in a factory stock car and A) get acceptable city mileage and B) not have people complaining about the rubber-band feeling of the car outside of lockup? What does it engage lockup in 2nd gear onward? Heh

I've got a 2800 non-lockup PI Stallion and have no rubber band feeling from a start with low throttle.