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steering rack removal issue

Hi,

I have an 88 T-bird 5.0 LX.  I was planning on swapping the springs from an 88 turbo coupe (according to CoolCats this is a good lowering upgrade).  I had also planned to swap the steering rack to with the turbo coupe to get the 15-1 upgrade.  I got the rack out of the turbo coupe no problem but taking it out of the LX is proving difficult because the oil pan seems to be in the way.  As I pry the rack out, it runs into the oil pan before it can clear the welded sleeves.  Is there some trick to this?  I assume I'm going to have the same issue trying to get the replacement installed.  Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks in advance.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

steering rack removal issue

Reply #1 –
Just unbolt the two bolts that hold the motor mounts to the frame, one bolt per side, they run front to back and are easily accessible...., lift the engine about an inch, and you should be good to go. Just lift slowly.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

steering rack removal issue

Reply #2 –
Thanks Vinnie.  I assume you mean lift it with a jack somewhere underneath the engine.  I'll have a look to see where the lift point should be without damaging something.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

steering rack removal issue

Reply #3 –
I have done it using a piece of 2x4 under the bell housing. I have done it under the pan (rear sump) as well without touching the drain plug. Just lift carefully as not to damage the hoses or anything else. An inch should be plenty. Good luck.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

steering rack removal issue

Reply #4 –
If you have the car far enough off the ground put a 2x4 or 4x4 under the harmonic balancer after you  pull the motor mount bolts

steering rack removal issue

Reply #5 –
I use the bell housing as not to put all that weight on the end of the crankshaft, and, to leave lot's of room in front of the engine to work. I have heard of many people putting something under the balancer, but never tried it. Is it safe to do that?
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

steering rack removal issue

Reply #6 –
As far as i know. Ive done it quite a few times the funnest of those times was changing an oilpan on my old 91 f150 with an i6. Its done no damage to any of the ones ive done it to

steering rack removal issue

Reply #7 –
I'd not recommend loading the front of the crank like that. A 2x4 under the pan is more than fine to lift and hold the engine an inch or so to swap a rack. Leaving it long term..probably not too good.

I've rear that a lot of the Camaro guys have propped up their Mouse II's under the harmonic....then had to get crank sensors replaced because it damages them. Or so I've read. Applies to LT1 engines too. I'm sure Renzo will come in and argue. Or try to. This be my only post on the matter.

For what it's worth it, I've lifted MANY an engine, merely enough for headers, mounts, etc. Always used a block under the pan and a small jack, lift slow, and have someone watch things up top. Never had one issue as a result. Never lifted one by the crank snout either....that's quite a load on an important piece that is somewhat pr0ne to breakage on 5.0 engines.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

steering rack removal issue

Reply #8 –
Thanks everyone.  I put a block on my jack and carefully jacked on the pan and was able to get the rack out.  Does anyone know what the rack part number should be for a 15-1 vs 20-1?  I didn't see anything on the rack that seems to have those numbers. 

I'm now putting stuff back together and have another issue.  I purchased the KYB Exel-G shocks as recommended on CoolCats. The problem is my turbo coupe spindles (which I'm putting on my LX for the 11" disk upgrade) are actually thinner than the LX spindles where they bolt to the shock.  In other words,  my new shock bolt holes are too far apart for the spindle.  Anyone come across this before?  Should I just jam it with washers?   
I've read I can't use the LX spindles for the 11" upgrade but they look pretty similar to the turbo coupe -- is that confirmed?  Aside from the thickness at the shock, what else is different?
thanks again in advance.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

steering rack removal issue

Reply #9 –
Go to the local parts store...order a rack for an '87-'93 5.0 Mustang. '88 Thunderbird Sport (5.0) and Merc Cougar XR7 will also be the same part #.
Don't die of sticker shock when you see the price of the rack...


I got lucky, found a near new one in a salvage yard in a '90 5.0 'vert. Still had the manufacturer sticker on it. I pulled the boots back on the inner tie rods....hadn't been used too much before taking the ride to car heaven.

May as well throw in new inner/outer tie rods and align it too. Uh...do the alignment afterwards. ;)

Probably a good idea to swap the steering pump out for the quick(er) ratio...again, one from an '87-93 5.0 Stang will so. You CAN use the stocker, but if you drive the car hard, you'll have binding in the steering due to the differences.

Nothing to it...
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

steering rack removal issue

Reply #10 –
I've never had issues with a steering pump and binding, when I swapped the pump on my TC for one with a reservoir I bought one for a 79 cougar and never had any issues.

steering rack removal issue

Reply #11 –
most shocks come with a thick metal plate to be used as a spacer to take up that slack

let me know what rack you end up with and approximate cost, as I'm in the market for one on the cheap. if yours was working fine before, id love to take it off your hands.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

steering rack removal issue

Reply #12 –
Hmmm.  I ordered from Amazon and there were no spacers.  Guess it's going to be washers.    Let me install this TC rack and make sure it works and then I'll get back to you on the other rack.  thanks.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.

steering rack removal issue

Reply #13 –
When I ordered my KYB's from MM, there were no spacers with the struts. I just used thick washers on the backside.


86' T/C 4.6L DOHC
16' Chebby Cruze 1.4L Turbo
17’ Peterbilt 389 600hp 1850ftlb Trq 18spd

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“Heavy Metal Mistress”
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steering rack removal issue

Reply #14 –
hmmm.  I called the KYB factory and they said they don't make front struts for the TC -- just the other models.  I called the Monroe factory and told them I had the 71803 struts (they picture with the spacers) and the guy gave me part no. P01453 but told me they (the factory) doesn't have the spacer packages -- contact a parts dealer. 

Hey BadBird,  did you have to elongate one of the bolt holes in the strut to get it to line up?  How thick (washers) and which side is the back side?  I'm a bit nervous to use washers as these struts take a lot of stress at the spindle.
'88 Bird 5.0, TW 170s, HO cam, Scorpion rockers, Explorer intake 70mm TB/EGR, MAF conversion, 24# injectors, 8.8 3.73 disc rear end swap, console swap, leather seats, 11" front discs, 15-1 rack, TC springs all around, x-pipe, BBK headers,  welded sub-frame, unlocked digital speedo.