88 sport rebuild , need advice

Topic: 88 sport rebuild , need advice (Read 31028 times) previous topic - next topic

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #45 – July 07, 2013, 11:59:18 PM

the bellhousing is the same. many many stang.guys run junk.yard explorer motors.

it IS 50ozimbalance, like the bird/cats.

the 157 or 164 tooth flywheel is neither here nore there. they are interchangeable. its only the bell housing for the trans that matters. aod = 164 tooth, t-5 =157 tooth. its just the outer diameter of the flywheel.

my aod flywheel was 164 tooth, as are the 94-04 t-5's. there is also a slightly different offset in the ring gear, but your talking 3/8" difference. at worst you end up with a new starter.

if your running the stock aod, use a stock flywheel and everything lines up fine.

just start swapping parts and it will all drop in like its from the factory. your over thinking.things.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #46 – July 08, 2013, 12:09:38 AM

to further clarify, pre 80's cars and full sized cars commonly swapped blocks and transmissions from th e trucks. after the early 80's, things were more or less standardized.

the trucks 1980 and newer all ran 164 tooth flywheels, regardless of transmissions. I know because I'm running a 164 tooth flywheel from a f-150 right now. they were also heavier to help increase low end torque, which is why there is a 3/8" difference in starters.

since I didn't want to order a custom 164 tooth flywheel to match the v-6 trans and bell housing I'm running, I bought.the one for a manual f-150, as well as the clutch and pressure plate. I also had to run the clutch"mini" starter which I source from a 1996 f-150 with a stick. this put everything right where it needs to be.

if I had a stock fox t-5 setup, then I could have just used my stock starter, and bought stang parts, because it used a 157 tooth flywheel.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #47 – July 08, 2013, 05:56:53 AM

Correct me if i am WRONG STACKS you brought up the out of balance weight ISSUE. All 302 engines past 81 were 50 OZ if i am correct??? All i did was include flywheel tooth count. I am sorry for including it. I know everything is a drop in until you hit the KEY and you either hear the starter grinding away or just making wizer noise. I figured the auto tranny units were the same. I just transposed the tooth count. It happens sorry. I have on numerous occasions posted i am not an AUTO TRANNY GUY and do not claim to be one. It has been a long time since i have dealt with a 302 so i should have let you handle it. I just do not want Jay having any issues with miss matched parts. It HAPPENS from time to time.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #48 – July 08, 2013, 07:49:02 AM

If later we do a stand alone system,,
what role would the mass air pieces parts play...
as in will the mass air meter be required or not.

i thought the mega squirt systems reference the tps, wide band o2 and the coolant temp sensor as thier ref input signals.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #49 – July 08, 2013, 12:20:20 PM

Remember, even if some of the mass air parts are not needed they will not drop in value as they are getting harder to find not easier.

Darren

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #50 – July 08, 2013, 08:31:13 PM

darren , dont i want an AUTOMATIC transmission A9P eec?

I was wondering why a9L was suggested above,thats all,, just asking.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #51 – July 08, 2013, 10:10:20 PM

Yes. A9L is for a standard trans car.

Darren

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #52 – July 08, 2013, 11:00:17 PM

Do I need a special air tube for the maf sensor etc.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #53 – July 09, 2013, 09:25:57 AM

If you are going to run the 19 lb/hr injectors then the stock MAF will work. The mass air meters are not calibrated to the injectors in stock applications. The EEC has tables in it for the size of injector that the car came with from the factory. The EEC also has a MAF transfer function in it that directly correlates to the mass air meter. this is why when folks stab bigger injectors in a car or a different stock MAF the car runs bad.

With all that being said if you are going to run an A9P you need a stock MAF and 19 lb/hr injectors if you are not going to custom tune the EEC with a chip or a piggy back of some sort. You can run bigger injectors with an aftermarket mass air meter like a C&L or Pro-M. They work by modifying the signal from the mass air meter is being modified to work with the stock injector tables in the EEC. This works but a tune is always better.

Pretty good thread here on what MAF's orther than the stock Mustang unit that will work with the A9P:

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?32890-Explorer-MAF&

I would send thunderjet302 a PM and see if he is still comfortable with that list or start searching the internet to see what anyone else has used or knows works.

Darren

Darren

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #54 – July 09, 2013, 12:57:50 PM

Some good information popped into this thread.

What I would do with the mass air decision is pick up a factory 55mm to start. They are very cheap. You can get the car running, then mess with other sizes, which will start to make the car behave a little differently. I keep a stock unit on hand just for troubleshooting, in case I ever have another problem. The mass air body/sensor, and injectors are easy to swap out, so it's nice to have one available. I'd also just pick up an A9P EEC, (re)pin the two or three wires in the car, and just hook it up. Mass air is a lot easier to get running well than speed density (it helped make FI Mustangs easy to modify, and grow a huge aftermarket).

Sticking with a 302/306, the car should be fine with 19lb. You can change out the mass air sensor and injectors at a later time, after you verify the motor runs well. With a 342/347 (I'd skip a 327/331 like others recommend in this thread - wear isn't really an issue), you'd need to use 24lb injectors, or keep the rpm's below 4000. There's no fun in that. If the engine is going to get bored out, you already need new other parts. I'd jump straight to a 347. Instead of making 300hp with stock parts, you could be making closer to 330hp (and have a LOT more torque down low). The difference would probably be like going from 2.73 gears to 3.08 or 3.08 to 3.55.

As for balance, unless it's a stock shortblock being left alone, I'd get everything balanced by a good machine shop. Even a new stroker kit won't be as well balanced as if a shop were to balance the rotating assembly with the specific balancer and flywheel that you plan on using. Engines are supposed to spin, not wobble.The less wobble you can get, the better it runs and the longer everything will last (bearings, and/or engine block).

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #55 – July 09, 2013, 01:30:50 PM

some info is getting skipped over.
car has explorer parts on it now on the upper.. excluding heads.,, has dual exhuast as well.

pic below of the warehouse full of goodies, found a lightning in there and a 3.8 SC engine as well.

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #56 – July 09, 2013, 01:33:45 PM

here is the engine i bought, need to post the answer to the question i got on sbf as well,
these are GT heads.

Donor explorer was a total loss left rear impact, 140k miles on odometer

Need to finalize on the correct compatable header to use so it bolts right up to our existing 2 1/2'' exhaust
(im sure the answer is somewhere in here)...???

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #57 – July 09, 2013, 01:35:54 PM

a few more porn shots

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #58 – July 09, 2013, 01:38:19 PM

those exhaust headers look very restrictive,, even as bad as the mustang shorties.

so do i have the correct engine for the GT series head?
what header works best for these heads that bolt right up to our dual exhaust?

88 sport rebuild , need advice

Reply #59 – July 09, 2013, 01:40:02 PM

also, will i have to contend to the oil filter fittment?>