is this feasable

Topic: is this feasable (Read 1072 times) previous topic - next topic

is this feasable

June 30, 2013, 07:57:15 PM

son and i will be doing an oil pan swap soon,,
he does have a very minior tap in the bottom end.

I have never tried to do mains / rod bears on a 302 with the pan off yet.

question......
can i remove the crank mains and be able to finagle the rear mains out or not???

this is really the only thing we can do the the engine at this time but i wouild really like to get the rods and mains replaced while im in there.

perhaps a higher volume oil pump as well.

pls dont start the ball bustin,, i will check the journals and call the ball if i see something wrong, otherwise it will be just this simple,,,
pan out
rod and mains out and back in, then pan back in

is this feasable

Reply #1 – June 30, 2013, 09:44:59 PM

If it was just a rusty oilpan then all means...if any bottom end noise...probably should pull the motor to really check it out.

Travis

is this feasable

Reply #2 – June 30, 2013, 10:06:59 PM

I know its been done but i would think that it would be easier to pull the motor rather than to pull the pan with it in the car and then try and replace all the bearings. So I guess to answer your question it can be done but its about the same work to just pull the motor and do the work but a whole lot less frustrating. At least that it my take on it.

Darren

is this feasable

Reply #3 – June 30, 2013, 10:27:07 PM

Jay the upper main bearings can be rolled out with a roll out tool . Or a bent carter pin. But removing the engine is much better. Also if i may suggest this!!! Never use a high volume or pressure pump . It will most likely strip the DIZZY OR CAM GEAR. I have a mod to get more oil to the dizzy gears on small fords. They to have a nasty habit of stripping gears just like the 2.3.

is this feasable

Reply #4 – June 30, 2013, 11:22:24 PM

x3, just pull the engine. it will save you a lot of time.

zip tie the power steering and ac.out of the way, un hook ground and.wires. pull hood and get a plug for.trans. unbolt drive shaft and let it rip. can be done in two hours or less if your good with a wrench.

is this feasable

Reply #5 – July 01, 2013, 12:26:32 AM

I agree with Tom renzo on the HV pump...you're asking for trouble. If you've got an oil pressure issue (or lack of oil pressure being the issue...) a HV pump is at best a band aid and will cause the dist shaft to break sooner or later.

You can get hardened shafts (he he he..harder shafts) but if the engine is low on oil pressure, i'd say a replacement or a rebuild is in order.

cough cough low mile explorer engine, with an HO cam swap and aftermarket valve springs cough cough.

I'd also pull the engine and work on it on a stand. Given the way the 5.0 sits down nearly on the k member, you'll near have to pull it anyway just to get the pan off to access the bottom end. Save yourselves your hair and yank 'er on out and work standing up...makes for a calmer, easier job lol.

My .02 for ya

is this feasable

Reply #6 – July 01, 2013, 10:11:08 AM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;417793

Jay the upper main bearings can be rolled out with a roll out tool . Or a bent carter pin. But removing the engine is much better. Also if i may suggest this!!! Never use a high volume or pressure pump . It will most likely strip the DIZZY OR CAM GEAR. I have a mod to get more oil to the dizzy gears on small fords. They to have a nasty habit of stripping gears just like the 2.3.

post that mod pls,,i know what you mean but didnt realize the additonal torque on the dizzy gear,, makes sense.

guys, if we only have a weekend, there wont be enough time imho to react to anything that may go wrong and have him back to work 200 miles away monday morning.
if he can get a week off, that fixes the time issue.

i may post random questions because im actually planning two builds out at once...and collecting parts.

is this feasable

Reply #7 – July 01, 2013, 01:59:11 PM

The problem with an in-car bearing change is that there isn't a good way that I know of to measure the crank in-vehicle even with the caps off. Do you just need a set of new standard size bearings? .001 undersize? Do you need machine work? There's no good way to tell, so you take your chances and run standard and still have a loose motor, or you run -.001 and be way too tight, or worse yet, you burn them up because the crank is wrecked. I don't consider plasti-gauge to be an acceptable tool for measurement. I say pull it. It makes your pan job easier, you can pull the crank and measure/send it out, and you have a clean shot at the rear main seal at the same time.

is this feasable

Reply #8 – July 01, 2013, 11:13:56 PM

Or, put together a different engine, or put some Tbird specific parts onto an Explorer engine and when it's ready, swap them out. Of course, you're at the mercy of the past history of the engine at that point, unless you tear it down, inspect, and replace/rebuild as needed.

I'd think in a newer 5.0 from an Explorer, the crank might be in pretty good shape, by virtue of less years/miles. Just food for thought, YMMV.

My plan is this:
Explorer 5.0 engine. Tear it down, measure crank, rods, etc for tolerances. If crank/rods re good, proceed after cleaning/installing new main/rod and assembly of bottom end. Replace the Explorer cam with an HO (or TFS-1), and GT40 P heads. Explorer upper lower intake set, and probably some BBK 1515 headers to work with the P heads's plug angle. Throw on a DIY mass air conversion and an A9L eec...put on all the Tbird/Cougar engine accessories to maintain original functions and ease of engine swap.

Probably close 275 ponies...some guys even said they hit 300with a little timing and fuel pressure tweaking. Don't forget the Trick Flow valve springs to work with the higher lift cam and the GT40 heads, too.

This is my plan for my next engine...coming this fall. I may even go with some different pistons, with an eye towards some added air pressure inside next summer. My buddy is putting a Procharger setup on his Mustang....his brother works for Procharger, and I've been learning a little more about them.

Anyway, sorry to get off on a tangent, just wanted to give you guys something to consider, so that you can put together something and not be rushed to rebuild an engine in 2 days, on your backs.