Messing around with 3D printing

Topic: Messing around with 3D printing (Read 8600 times) previous topic - next topic

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #15 – May 30, 2013, 10:27:43 PM

Now we just need to find somebody with a 3D scanner! We've got one at work, but I don't want to go to Leavenworth!

Any idea on the UV resistance properties of the plastics they're using?

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #16 – June 08, 2013, 11:07:12 PM

It took meseveral tries to get FreeCAD to like the cuts, but here is an updated link to the ZIP file. It includes both the blank and T/C variants. I want to also do the power antenna variant but I won't be able to until I dig mine out of the shed (unless someone can post the differences in measurements from the T/C version).

http://www.mediafire.com/download/9bue7nyu531bfph/Blank_Antenna_Panel_v3.zip

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #17 – June 09, 2013, 11:28:14 PM

Updated link to the .zip file. It contains an "extra-wide" variant that has a wider-than-T/C cutout. The cutout starts 3mm to the left and ends 10mm to the right compared to the standard T/C cutout. I also moved one of the stops to the right by 10mm to accommodate the cutout. Anyway, the purpose of this one is to support any special modding projects.

Enjoy :D

http://www.mediafire.com/download/9bue7nyu531bfph/Blank_Antenna_Panel_v3.zip

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #18 – June 10, 2013, 11:46:39 AM

That's great!

Here's something that might be good to have; the basic style (NON TC) door handle cups. The little plastic piece that goes under the inside door handle. Those little suckers break if you blink at them.

If you need one to measure, I have a good one I'd gladly donate to the cause. If it's something with merit, PM me your land addy, and I'll get it on the way :)

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #19 – June 10, 2013, 07:54:42 PM

I have a couple of NOS sets. I actually modeled one, but I got the angles wrong and will have to start over. There's hardly a straight line on them and it makes them a bear to measure.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #20 – June 10, 2013, 09:22:16 PM

if you ever want a part made for free, all you would have to do is ad support to your cad files.

I don't have any idea how its done, but my dad talks about it a lot

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #21 – June 12, 2013, 06:54:55 PM

Updated the file and link again. It now contains all four variants:

Blank
Power antenna cutout
T/C cutout
Extra-wide cutout

Mirroring the .stl files along the X-Z plane for right-hand-drive applications is an exercise for the reader

http://www.mediafire.com/download/9bue7nyu531bfph/Blank_Antenna_Panel_v3.zip

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #22 – June 14, 2013, 09:49:56 PM

I have good news and bad news.

The good: I got my T/C panel from Shapeways today, in "black, strong and flexible". The layering is a lot less apparent than the white version, and overall it looks very good. It's just a tiny bit darker than the stock panel, but when it's mounted it's not apparent. I haven't looked at the comparison in direct sunlight, though.

The bad: there is a design flaw in my model. The screw holes are plenty strong, but where the cylinders attach to the panel face isn't strong enough. There appears to be a seam there, and when I screwed the panel in place one of the cylinders broke off. I have super glue on it at the moment and I'll try it again tomorrow, but the models need revising. I plan to start on that tonight.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #23 – June 14, 2013, 10:26:17 PM

I've posted updated models that I hope will fix the problem...

http://www.mediafire.com/download/ie4hjriu17p7m9p/Antenna_Panel_v4.zip

Changes:

- Eliminated the seam on the mounting hole cylinders (the likely cause of the failure)
- Increased the cylinder height 1mm to lessen flexing of the panel when it is screwed in place. This also increases the plastic thickness at the actual screw hole to 5mm.
- Increased the outer radius of the mounting hole cylinders from 8.5mm to 10mm. This should provide a much stronger interface to the panel face.

If this isn't strong enough, nothing is.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #24 – June 14, 2013, 11:48:06 PM

This thread is the shiznit.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #25 – June 15, 2013, 05:53:12 PM

Very Nice! I've been messing around with this in my spare time as well. Currently working on a few unobtanium interior parts for the Lincoln car world, that if successful, I'm about to start re-popping and selling.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #26 – August 07, 2013, 08:57:54 PM

I've started modeling a cupholder part based on the JDM Toyota one I have. So far I've modeled the tray and had one made at Shapeways.

This is a drop-in replacement for the existing JDM tray, with a wider cutout to accommodate the new wider Mountain Dew bottles (thanks a lot, Pepsi

)

Eventually I'll model the sleeve (adapted to our dash), cup arm, and retaining pin, but one step at a time. I'm a little concerned about how SLS nylon powder will hold up over time, and I'm open to suggestions.

For this one I'm going to try plastic primer, paint, and clearcoat once I make a trip to Lowe's later this week.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #27 – August 14, 2013, 10:02:09 PM

Black parts are ABS from the original JDM piece, white parts are 3D printed :D

The black sleeve is actually 3 pieces, and there is also a bottom cup support not shown here, but I might model the bezel next, which is basically a stock lighter panel with a cutout for the cupholder face. It's really worth modeling, because getting the cutout right on my original one was the biggest pain in the whole process. I also might model a single-piece sleeve+bezel, but I'll have to think about that. It would solve a lot of problems, though -- maybe towards the end. The sleeve itself needs to be a little different for our cars: to let the cup support clear the console lip (so it can drop down into the storage area), the tray must come out an extra 1/2". The simple solution was to cut out part of the sleeve so the tray stops can come farther out. When I model the sleeve I'll build that change in. Needless to say, this cupholder only works for column shift cars.

The metal guide pin is basically an aluminum or steel wood screw with the last 1/4" ground down to a smooth pin. I have no idea where we would acquire those, but it's a necessary part.

The white pieces need some minor finishing for smooth operation, mainly due to the manufacturing process. I had to clean out the pin guide channel a little with a precision screwdriver, and gently smooth the inner circle of the white pin holder so it spins freely (very important for smooth operation).

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #28 – August 14, 2013, 10:22:25 PM

Cool. I guess we can print some wheel skirts (for other cars) and seat belt sleeves with these things then huh? Some cool power mirror housings too. And some ground effects. And a custom dash and door panels.

Messing around with 3D printing

Reply #29 – August 15, 2013, 11:16:33 PM

Who knows what will be possible in a few years?

Next: the combo lighter/cupholder bezel...