re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Topic: re-installing factory radio without original connectors (Read 6912 times) previous topic - next topic

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

February 12, 2013, 07:07:34 PM

For some reason, the CD player I installed about 13 years ago won't turn on. I haven't looked into it much yet but I am thinking about putting the factory radio back in anyway. I mean, everything else in my car is stock, so the radio may as well be, too. Plus, I don't listen to CD's anymore. Everything I listen to is either on the radio or on the iPod.

So I am thinking about dropping one of these in so I can use the iPod: http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614/. I'm sure lots of you guys know about these already, but I had never heard of it before. It is similar to a py FM transmitter, but it plugs in line with the antenna cable, which SUPPOSEDLY improves the performance.

What I like about it is I can easily keep using my factory equilizer and factory amp. I'm not expecting miracles from it, but hopefully it will perform well enough to keep pace with a 26-year-old factory audio system.

Just curious if anybody else has any experience with a wired FM Modulator. Thanks.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #1 – February 13, 2013, 02:58:36 PM

Why not just use the cassette tape/ipod adapters that are for sale for around 5 dollars? Just my opinion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160973785978?hlp=false

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #2 – February 13, 2013, 09:56:32 PM

X2.

I used one in my crownvic for almost 2 years, and couldn't be happier. I did eventally go to a cd player, but I got one with a line in to use for my phone. Next I think I will go with a bluetooth compatable setup.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #3 – February 13, 2013, 11:00:47 PM

I've never been real impressed with the cassette adapters, and this FM modulator thing is supposed to produce better sound. I guess we'll see. I pulled the aftermarket CD player today. I had forgotten there is a 10 amp fuse on the unit. It was blown, but even after I replaced the fuse I couldn't get the radio to do anything. So I am planning to go ahead and re-install the stock unit.

I am going to have a little trouble because back in the day when I put the CD player in, I cut all the wires off the 2 connectors that go into the radio and apparently threw the connectors away. That was stupid. I can identify all the wires using the EVTM, and I have a couple connectors I pulled off another car at some point, but the wires in those connectors aren't quite the same. So I am going have to figure out which pin location on the plug should connect to each wire. Unless I am missing it, the EVTM doesn't have this information. My shop manual seems to have some information about pin location/order, but it seems to me that the diagram in the EVTM and the diagram in the shop manual aren't lining up right. I will look at it again later and if it still isn't making sense I will scan the pages and post them up for a second-opinion comparison.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #4 – February 14, 2013, 09:25:06 AM

I'm working on something like this now. If you look on the thread below you'll see a wiring diagram that someone posted. Perhaps that will help you with your project. I've tried both the cassete adapters and I researched and bought what should be one of the best fm transmitters. I'm not impressed with either of them. I'd be a little concerned with transmitter you're looking at in that it only offers 2 fm frequencys. If you're traveling this might pose a problem but I don't know how this would perform vs a standard transmitter.
I'm currently trying to find a switch with an auxiliary input so I can wire it directly inline between the equalizer and the stereo. So far any switch I've found is far too expensive and wouldn't make sense. If I find something that will work I'll post it.
Charlie

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #5 – February 14, 2013, 10:51:21 AM

Thanks Pacerized. I tried to search for similar threads before posting, but I guess I put in the wrong words to catch your thread. And I didn't browse through the audio section or I would have seen your thread that way.

I have that page (198) from the EVTM. I have attached the other diagram I am looking at, which comes from the 1987 Shop Manual.

It basically lines up. For example, both show the same wires (19, 54, 137, 484, 747) running from one of the connectors. But what is throwing me off is the second connector. The EVTM shows wires 806, 807, and 287. But the Shop Manual shows 806, 807, and 280. I can't decide if that is just a typo. It probably is, right? Any other opinions? It doesn't even matter as long as the pin location is the same, because that is all I need to know for what I am trying to do.

The other thing thowing me off about the Shop Manual is it shows two 747 wires coming off the radio, one running through a connector (which jives with the EVTM and with the wires in my car) and one running directly out of the radio (which doesn't). I'm thinking the second one should be labeled 694, which is the red wire that attaches to the stud on the back of the radio. If that is true, then the whole thing makes sense. Otherwise, I am confused.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #6 – February 14, 2013, 11:34:28 AM

So attached is a picture of the connectors I have. They are oriented the same way they are shown on the Shop Manual page attached to my previous post. The top one should be almost good to go. All I have to do is move that red wire down one slot and connect it to the O/LB (747) wire in my car.

Starting from the top, the Shop Manual says the second connector should be:

empty
BK/W (280 in the Shop Manual, 287 in the EVTM)
PK/LG (807)
empty
empty
empty
PK/LB (806)
empty

All the wires in the second connector are small, and the BK/W common wire in my car is a slightly heavier gauge, so I may have to totally rewire one of those metal connectors for that one, but after doing that and connecting the red wire in my car (not the one pictured in the connector) to the rear stud on the radio I should be good to go, right? Can anybody verify that I am reading the diagram correctly?

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #7 – February 14, 2013, 12:05:59 PM

I have my factory set up apart right now. Would it help if I posted a picture of the factory plug wires?

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #8 – February 14, 2013, 12:25:45 PM

Quote from: Pacerized;409329

I have my factory set up apart right now. Would it help if I posted a picture of the factory plug wires?

Oh man, would you mind? That is EXACTLY what I need. Thanks!

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #9 – February 14, 2013, 12:35:22 PM

Quote from: nbzimmer;409197

For some reason, the CD player I installed about 13 years ago won't turn on. I haven't looked into it much yet but I am thinking about putting the factory radio back in anyway. I mean, everything else in my car is stock, so the radio may as well be, too. Plus, I don't listen to CD's anymore. Everything I listen to is either on the radio or on the iPod.

So I am thinking about dropping one of these in so I can use the iPod: http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614/. I'm sure lots of you guys know about these already, but I had never heard of it before. It is similar to a py FM transmitter, but it plugs in line with the antenna cable, which SUPPOSEDLY improves the performance.

What I like about it is I can easily keep using my factory equilizer and factory amp. I'm not expecting miracles from it, but hopefully it will perform well enough to keep pace with a 26-year-old factory audio system.

Just curious if anybody else has any experience with a wired FM Modulator. Thanks.

Go for it. Ford markets this kit through it's dealer parts departments and accessory catalogs as "triptunes" I've installed somewhere like a dozen of them and they really do work very well. The difference between this and other modulators is that this is hardwired into the antenna and it blocks the set frequency so you don't have to compete. This will work better for you than Pacerized's mod is going to work for him. There's no reason to reinvent the wheel here. just pop it into the back of the deck, plug the antenna into the unit, wire it to power and ground with the cigar lighter and fish the remote switch/port into the console or glove box and peel and stick it to the side. tune to the set frq and rock out.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #10 – February 14, 2013, 12:57:27 PM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;409333

Go for it. Ford markets this kit through it's dealer parts departments and accessory catalogs as "triptunes" I've installed somewhere like a dozen of them and they really do work very well. The difference between this and other modulators is that this is hardwired into the antenna and it blocks the set frequency so you don't have to compete. This will work better for you than Pacerized's mod is going to work for him. There's no reason to reinvent the wheel here. just pop it into the back of the deck, plug the antenna into the unit, wire it to power and ground with the cigar lighter and fish the remote switch/port into the console or glove box and peel and stick it to the side. tune to the set frq and rock out.

Thanks. It looks like the Ford product costs about twice as much as the Scosche version I ordered, but if there is a difference in quality it probably would have been worth the extra $20. I guess we will see how this one performs.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #11 – February 14, 2013, 01:16:30 PM

There will be no difference. Where do you think Ford gets them from? It's rebranded, repackaged, sold to the dealer for around $35 and marked up so the dealer can make a little money. The more times you sell something as new, the more it inevitably costs in the end. Good find on Amazon.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #12 – February 14, 2013, 01:31:00 PM

I had a FM modulator for awhile and it was junk. I actually found a overpowered (illegal) wireless unit that worked much better. With both though, I think the major problem is that FM has a very limited frequency response. Everything sounds led compared to a direct line in. For me being in vehicles that I don't own that have no inputs, FM works fine, but it can't compete with line in any way. For things like talk shows/podcasts, FM is fine.

I think there was a thread on here of someone modifying the stock radio to have a line in.

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #13 – February 14, 2013, 02:09:28 PM

Quote from: Seek;409340

I had a FM modulator for awhile and it was junk. I actually found a overpowered (illegal) wireless unit that worked much better. With both though, I think the major problem is that FM has a very limited frequency response. Everything sounds led compared to a direct line in. For me being in vehicles that I don't own that have no inputs, FM works fine, but it can't compete with line in any way. For things like talk shows/podcasts, FM is fine.

I think there was a thread on here of someone modifying the stock radio to have a line in.

That's me but I still haven't found a switch for a reasonable price. If I can find one for $20-$30 I'm going to do it but if I have to spend over $100 I might as well just buy a new stereo. I'm waiting to here back from a professional audio guy that I use for my business who says he can get a switch at a reasonable cost. It would seem like a direct feed would give a better sound quality to me. I have the fm transmitter in my Durango, the cassette adapter in my Cougar and a new jeep with the aux. input on the stereo. The sound quality in the jeep is far superior, so I was hoping a direct line into the factory Cougar system would be as well. I should no if this is possible by the end of the week. If not, I'll be waiting to see what nbzimmer thinks of his system and may go that route. I'll post some plug pictures later today.
Charlie

re-installing factory radio without original connectors

Reply #14 – February 14, 2013, 02:58:18 PM

I'll attempt to post a picture of the eq plug below. The wiring on the stereo side of the plug matches this one in color. If you need the picture of the stereo plug let me know, I don't have the stereo out but it would just be 4 screws at this point, so no big deal.
The factory plug is considerably different the the picture you posted which I assume is the aftermarket cd plug adapted to your wiring.
The factory plug is 2 tier with 6 pin slots in both the top and bottome tiers and is color coded as follows from left to right as viewed from back of plug.
I think the orange/light blue is the power. The pink/light blue, pink/light green and black/white are speaker wires.

Top tier of plug
pink/light blue, black/white, empty slot, green, blue/black, and a black jumper wire contecting slot 2 to slot 6 on the plug which I think is the common speaker wire.
bottom tier of plug
pink/light green, empty, orange/light blue, light blue/red, white/red, purple/white.