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Topic: Somethings wrong. (Read 12870 times) previous topic - next topic

Somethings wrong.

Reply #60 –
I don't remember this early/late 86 coming up before. Your discription of link L sounds like the 87 wiring harness.
Would you mind posting your VIN so we can confirm it's an 86.
My 86 EVTM shows the 5.0 having the 2G alternator while the 3.8 still has the 1g.
I want to get us all on the same page wiring diagram wise.

PS. The diagram I posted has the internal voltage regulator.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #61 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;402631
Soft touch that is the print i pulled up on ALL DATA. A&E are in series for what reason is beyond my imagination!!! FORD and their nutty wiring???
Tom, That top row with link R and E in series should have been deleted from the diagram when they deleted the trailer tow feature.
The real link E is at the bottom of that stack of links.

Check out a 85 diagram to see what it looked like with trailer tow feature.
 

Somethings wrong.

Reply #63 –
The VIN number is on top of the dash close to the windshield on the driver's side. You have to look through the glass from the outside.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #64 –
remember guys, that c-pillar lighted tbird emblem was a 5v light,,,, that second fuse link in question may have been serving as a resistance wire and its just mis typed.  it would have been carried over a year or two .


if he has the 87harness, its very easy to verify,,,,,,the charge fuse link qty and color codes will match up.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #65 –
I'm looking at the schematic and the one you sent me looks right. My friend must be confused. One difference is the yellow wires have black fuse links not red. The one question I have is that when I put the new mini starter on, I left the small r/blue stripe wire on the key of the starter relay that goes to the ignition, I also hooked up a small wire to the starter being it already has it's own relay to the hot side of the starter relay mounted on the fender. Is that right? I think I also found at least part of the schematic for the EEC. It shows the connections, but I don't see a black/orange stripe wire on it (??). Sorry, I seem to be confusing everyone, but on this schematic it sure looks like the colors match up. I will do my own homework today and get back with you. Thanks!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #66 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402682
I'm looking at the schematic and the one you sent me looks right.
\
Are you speaking to me?

Somethings wrong.

Reply #67 –
Softtouch,
                Sorry, it took me so long to get back with you, I had some errands to run. Yes, your schematic looks right, but some colors on the fuse links are different.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #68 –
Question: If I have a yellow wire going to the EEC, shouldn't I see a yellow wire on the connector of the EEC? The only wire I see on the connector that is yellow has a green stripe. Right where the EEC is, there is a small group of wires that are taped together and are going toward the back of the car. In that bundle I have both a black/orange stripe and a yellow wire, but they do not connect to my EEC. The more I look at this harness the less it looks like either schematic. It shouldn't make a difference if the car came from Van puppies Canada should it?

Somethings wrong.

Reply #69 –
Ok 86 once again you are chasing BALLOONS. You are asking questions about the starter. Question did and or does the starter WORK???? Because i cant follow your posts at this point. Once AGAIN key the car and see what works in the car???? Test every device and let me know what does not work right down to the ASH TRAY LIGHT IF IT HAS ONE. Then tell me or should i say US what does not work. At this point you are tearing in to things that may not have any significance with your trouble. Then when you find out the circuits that do not work we can pull a print and section it down Another words isolate it!!! This is how trouble shooting is DUN!!! So go out to the car with a fully charged battery and post back what i asked. If not i am lost for words at this point???
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #70 –
Tom,
        That sounds a lot better than the way I'm doing it. I'm going to charge up my battery for a while and put the EEC back in. Then I'll get back with you. Thanks!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #71 –
What does work: Interior lights, radio, clock, headlights (low and high beam), instrument lights, turn signals, horn, windshield wipers, wiper pump, door chime, starter, trunk light, e/m, trip, trip reset, back-up lights, electric side mirrors, fuel gauge, and oil pressure gauge.

What does not work: Heater blower, defroster, amp. meter is now dead, and car won't start (although it did try).

I don't know about the temperature gauge, or the seat belt warning.

Did I miss anything? Sounds to me like my car should start.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #72 –
On the schematic I have it shows two black/orange stripe wires. One goes to the EEC, and the other one goes to the defroster. My defroster is now not working and my amp. meter is not working and my blower is not working. When I was charging up my battery, I did notice it was fairly low. I charged it up on a scale from 5-1 to 2. Tomorrow I will complete the charge and see if that was my problem with starting. Why would my fuse to my heater fry? Did my alternator spike and kill it and my amp. meter? Tomorrow, I will remove my amp. meter.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #73 –
Check that the Grey/Yellow circuit coming off the ignition switch has power when the key is on (blower), and go check that everybody is hooked up at the starter solenoid (defrost and EEC power).  If it's all hooked up at the solenoid, start checking for power getting through the fuse links there, especially the BK/O ones.  I like to use a headlight as a test lamp for this.  By the diagram, checking for power at PCM pin 1 should tell you a lot also.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #74 –
86 dont remove the ammeter. Once again you are chasing balloons. Ok it cranks right??? But wont start. Did you check for battery at the coils + side???? Also now check all the fuses at the fuse panel for voltage. Check the blower fuse #9 for battery in and out. Is it their ???? Also check for battery at the alt heavy charging leads . They are the thickest ones.  And post back. This way i can trace back the power source that feeds it. The blower battery comes through the ignition switch fuse 9 30A . As i posted several pages back did you check that. Another words check that the ignition switch is sending battery to the fuse panel. Then we can go further!!!

OK do this check for grounds on pins 40&60 of the ECM. If good check constant battery on pin 1 of the ECM. If ok then check key battery on pins 37&57. Is key battery their??? If not go to the EEC relay and check for constant battery feeding the relay. Is it their??? If so key the car on and check if the relay is energizing and transferring the battery out of the relay. IS IT DOING THIS??? If not find out why. I am thinking the EEC relay does not have battery present because of a fuse link.

Key the car on and check if battery is on the red wire feeding the injectors. And do not remove anything further untill you do some pinpoint testing. Stop chasing balloons and isolate this trouble
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!