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Topic: Somethings wrong. (Read 12893 times) previous topic - next topic

Somethings wrong.

Reply #45 –
TRUE 86 but the fuse links in series according to the print is for the rear window defroster.

Can anyone explain to me why FORD puts 2 fuse links in series???? And further mor of different current capacities??? WOW always wondered why and to this day i cant understand why??? ANYONE!!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #46 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;402615
TRUE 86 but the fuse links in series according to the print is for the rear window defroster.

Can anyone explain to me why FORD puts 2 fuse links in series???? And further mor of different current capacities??? WOW always wondered why and to this day i cant understand why??? ANYONE!!!!
If you are talking about links R and E, it looks like the tech writers were having trouble keeping up with the changes between 85 and 86

85 with trailer tow feature has link R feeding link E and two other links S and T.
Without trailer tow feature there is just link E.

86 they deleted trailer tow feature.
The EVTM shows link R feeding link E with links S and T deleted.
It also shows link E by itself  feeding the rear defroster.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #47 –
In the Haynes manual it has two schematics for 1986. One for 1986 and earlier and one for 1986 and later. My car has the three fuse links attached to the one I have that blew. My friend and I traced it to the "Electronic Engine Control Module". It had no voltage on "accessories" or when cracking over. All I did was change starters to a mini charger, would that in any way create a spike to my EEC? I don't want to find out I have a bad EEC, replace it only to have it happen again. It was taking a longer and longer to start towards the end and the last time it ran, it ran great for about a hour (total time) then is started to idle rougher and rougher. That's when I turned it off and it smoked. I am going to pull the EEC out and look at it for any obvious problems before I buy another on. What I'm wondering is did the old girl just give up after 26 years of service, or was there a electrical spike that took her out? Thanks!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #48 –
I'm about Tom's age (55) and if I knew what I was doing, I would have done it the easier way. I learned a lot and I know it's all clean and functional, so it was worth it. I can't take anything for granted on a 26 year old car. Thanks! for the "Atta Boy", I'm glad you guy's understand. I cleaned the NSS up and it went back in like a dream. Took me about 2 hours to get the messy thing out and about 5 minutes to get it back in and working.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #49 –
WOW! Does this sound right?? I just called auto zone and they have one for under $100.00 depending on which one I need. I know it re-manufactured but still, back in the old days, these were EXPENSIVE!! So, my next question is does someone make an upgrade aftermarket model? Maybe programmable or whatever they do with an EEC.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #50 –
Can you point out on this diagram the wire/link that smoked?

Somethings wrong.

Reply #51 –
That is the other schematic (1986 and earlier), mine is the 1986 and later schematic. It is fuse link "L" (20 gauge blue). It is a black/ orange stripe wire. Unless someone has a special connection with ford, I doubt that anyone will have a schematic for the EEC. Hope that helps.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #52 –
Hope this is less fuzzy. Are you saying my diagram is for the earyl 86?

Somethings wrong.

Reply #53 –
What is the VIN number of your car?

Somethings wrong.

Reply #54 –
Soft touch that is the print i pulled up on ALL DATA. A&E are in series for what reason is beyond my imagination!!! FORD and their nutty wiring???
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #55 –
86 you have to stop and do some trouble shooting before throwing parts at this issue. You are chasing BALLOONS. You jump all over the place and that is a NO NO. Here is what i would do. Key up the car and check voltages at key points. And operate accessories and see which ones dont work. That will direct you in to the proper fuses and links that feed them. Take your time and check points with a conventional test light. Not a circuit safe one. NOTE do not back probe any electronic circuits with this type of test light.  Example the ECM The injector banks and the ignition switch. Clearly you blew a link and that means a hefty short of grounding of a component or wiring. Slow down and think before proceeding. First thing to do is after you find out what battery feed caused the link to blow. Once this is accomplished you need to eliminate circuits associated with this link. If not you will chase BALLOONS. And just might FRY A NEW ECM??? If in fact the ECM is not properly grounded ETC. It might seek a ground through that link and fry the new ECM. So slow down and research which circuits are dead and what they feed. Hope this helps.

Note check all battery feeds and grounds to the ECM. And make sure you put a heavy load on the grounds for testing. A resistive ground is a NO NO!!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #56 –
When we checked the fuse link that blew, we did a continuity check on the black/orange stripe wire that goes directly to the EEC and it beeped. The other side does connect to a lot more wires, but most of them have fuse links also. That may not matter being they are larger than 20 gauge. We did check for voltages while cranking and found nothing. We checked the other connections and did not find a short (??). Why would the car run for so long before the fuse blew?

Somethings wrong.

Reply #57 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402633
When we checked the fuse link that blew, we did a continuity check on the black/orange stripe wire that goes directly to the EEC and it beeped. The other side does connect to a lot more wires, but most of them have fuse links also. That may not matter being they are larger than 20 gauge. We did check for voltages while cranking and found nothing. We checked the other connections and did not find a short (??). Why would the car run for so long before the fuse blew?
Fuse link L does go directly to the EEC. It is the keep alive voltage for the EEC.
BUT when the key is on and the EEC power relay is picked it goes lots of places. Several solenoids, the fuel injectors, the A/C WOT cutout relay, the fuel pump relay.
As Tom says, some trouble shooting is needed.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #58 –
I've trying to sent the link, but I'm not having any luck. I believe it is page #53 on 86_tbird's EVTM.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #59 –
softtouch,
              Yes, your schematic is early 1986 which is charging system with external voltage regulator. The 1986 or later is internal voltage regulator. Thanks!