Somethings wrong. Reply #30 – November 14, 2012, 07:26:10 PM I went as far as to take the fuse links out and check them and they are good. I took the neutral switch out and checked it and it and the harness is also good. Tomorrow I will put it back in after I clean it up. I did check my fuse box and every one of my fuses looked good. I was out side cranking the engine yesterday for some time but it did not fire up. The thing that got me was it didn't even try to start, no backfire or anything. One issue I did notice was when I took my #5 plug out it didn't fire, when I took my #6 plug out it looked like it would only fire about once every 3rd turn. My plugs are new, my distributor is new and it ran fine for about an hour before I saw the puff of smoke under the hood. I will look for the orange link on the car and see what I can find out. Thanks! Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #31 – November 14, 2012, 08:19:14 PM OK time to get serious!!! Get out your test lamp and test for battery on the + side of the coil ( Red Light Green) with the ignition keyed on!!! DOES IT LIGHT???? If not you either have a bad fuse link or a bad ignition switch. Check spark at the center wire to ground with a gap of app 1/4 inch while cranking of course!!! Or with a plug or spark tester. If you have spark their forget this post!!! Also check for battery at the injectors. The hot side has a red wire. Key the car and check for Battery. If good use a NOID light to check pulses. Crank the engine and look for the blinks. Are they their. Yes No. If yes you are good if no go to the POWER UP RELAY OR EEC REALAY WHATEVER YOU LIKE TO CALL IT. Then check that. Good luck!!! Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #32 – November 14, 2012, 09:21:18 PM whats bugging me is that fact your not telling us that you are smelling fuel real bad!!!!-turn key on=do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple second=if yes-good-turn key off= do you hear a click after a couple seconds?=if yes-good-find your computer test connector, ground the tan/light green wire to the body of the car, turn key on=does the fuel pump run constantly?=if yes-good-as mentioned= back probe any easy to get to fuel injector connector with a test light and probe the red wire=if light blinks=good-repeat above test on another random injector-repeat above test on another random injectorHere are a few extras you can locate in my diy link i went ahead and extracted..............-----------------------No spark, TFI CONN check*******(our count will be from the bottom up as the conn is in its normal mounted position for this test)***********disconnect "s" terminal of starter relaydisconnect the TFI connthe pos meter lead will be inserted in the below terminals with the ground cliped to dissy basethe ign switch will be rotated to obtain voltage readingsvoltage readings **must be** at least 90% battery voltageits obvious now why we disconnected the slip on boot red wire from starter relay : )terminal circuit ID ign sw position2 to ign coil (-) terminal RUN3 run circuit RUN and START4 start circuit START------------------------Coil Checkmeter set to ohms, car off, undo plug wire and input connmeasure from small pin to small pin and expect .3 to 1.0 ohms***things to remember when using your digital meter. when you turn on you meter and set it to ohms, your meter may have a reading without touching anything yet. Remember to subtact your UNCALIBRATED meter reading from your coil reading above. A properly calibrated meter should be all zero's upon selecting ohms. Since this is almost a direct short we are reading here,, you meter being off will only complicate your troubleshooting.*** measure from on small pin to the plug wire post and expect 8000 to 11000 ohms.1987shop manual calls for these ..6500-11500 is a good coilless than 6500 or greater than 11500 is badFUNCTIONAL CHECKremove the electrical connection from the coil. remove the coil wire from the distributor and insert a spark plug in itground out the spark plug threads to the one of the strut bolts (wire tie it down).run a jumper wire from the battery positve to the coil where the red wire was hooked.run a jumper from the battery ground and tap the other end to a strut tower bolt.just tap the ground wire to ground a few times and you will see spark happen on the plug.you might need to gap the plug a little narrower than normal to get a consistant spark.the coil may skip a spark here and there but its because of the charge your putting on it.as you tap the ground jumper and you see spark, you have confirmed the coil operates.***it would be best to do this test as soon as you stop your car incase its a heat related type problem.--------------------------stator checkremove coil spark plug wire and ground itremove sprout connground neg meter lead to dizzy baseconnect pos meter leat to TFI side of sprout connbump engine over to obtain voltage readingrepeat several timesfor a digital meter, allow display to stabalize between testsdoes voltage average out to be at least 90% battery voltage? = stator gooddoes voltage average out to be less than 90% battery voltage? = stator bad-------------------------TFI MODULE TESTIts possible the tfi is bad and allow fuel to injectors. For 20 seconds a bad tfi will allow fuel injectors to pulse. after that they will not pulse if the tfi is bad.with the key off, there should be no voltage at any wires on the TFI connector. Prob with stick pin.with the key on,, there will be power on the 4th and 5th wire going from top down.remove the small red wire from starter solenoid on the fender well to prevent starting.while the key is held to the start positionpower is found on the wires 3,4 and 5 counting from top down.if no power is found at this point,, its a wiring problem.place the key in the run position and remove coil plug wiretap into the 5th wire down on the TFI with a stick pin/jumpe wireground out the 5th wire just quickly enough to see spark, dont hold ground and damage a good TFI.If no spark is found on the grounded 5th wire, check for 12v at the input of the coil. if power is found,, then test or swap the coil.Hold your TFI module in your hand just as it were mounted in your Dizzy. There will three pins on the top pointing up. The large 6 pin conn will be to your right.the three pins on the top count from left to right *D1 D2 D3*the six pin conn count top down H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 (the 87 shop manual has the count starting from the bottom up, rangerstation.com com tech section counts them from top down. use the top down method for this procedure)the metal base is called "base" now that the parts of the TFI are identified,, trouble shoot in ohms by the chart belowD1 to H1 12.8K D1 to H2 17.4K D1 to H3 1000 D1 to H4 11.5K D1 to H5 4.2K D1 to H6 0.0K D2 to H1 1.2K D2 to H2 5.8K D2 to H3 12.6K D2 to H4 100 D2 to H5 15.8K D2 to H6 11.6K D3 to H1 100 D3 to H2 4.7K D3 to H3 13.7K D3 to H4 1200 D3 to H5 16.9K D3 to H6 12.7K D1 to D2 11.5K D1 to D3 12.6K D2 to D3 1100 D1 to BASE 0.0K D2 to BASE 12K D3 to BASE 13.1K Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #33 – November 14, 2012, 09:56:15 PM Your exactly right, the plugs were wet, (got fuel). So, the injector's are doing their thing. I've never seen intermittent spark before. WOW! A lot of good information! Looks like I'm gonna learn a lot about this harness (good thing). I will start with Tom's list and if I don't find the problem, I will start on jcassity's list. I'm going to try to talk my buddy into helping me out again, electrical is always much easier with two people. Thanks!! Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #34 – November 15, 2012, 07:42:01 AM 86 it only takes a couple of things for an engine to run, SPARK AT THE RIGHT TIME AND OF PROPER VOLTAGE.COMPRESSION NORMALLY ABOVE 140 LBSAND FUEL> OF THE PROPER AMOUNT!!!Seems like you have a spark issue!!! Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #35 – November 15, 2012, 02:28:55 PM I'm outside taking all the plastic and tape off the harness in front of the fire wall. I decided to double check my neutral switch before I put it back in and when I set it up with alligator clips and checked it for continuity, I found that it was intermittent. When I pushed the plunger about half way in it would beep, a little further and it would stop, then a little further and it would beep. So, I'm going to replace it. I just went outside and found the fried link!! The wire is black with orange stripe going into the large harness that goes up toward the fire wall . That's also where I saw the smoke come out. I'm waiting for the schematic to download so I can see where it goes. Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #36 – November 15, 2012, 02:57:07 PM From what I can tell it looks like fuse link "F" 20 ga. goes to connector #C141 and then goes to the engine compartment lamp. The other end goes to fuse links r,s,l,m, and e. The orange and black then goes to fuse links a,b, and c. Looks like a lot to look at. It also goes to the alternator like Tom said. Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #37 – November 15, 2012, 08:55:35 PM 86 that fuse link only feeds the under hood lamp. The battery comes from the other links paired. If in fact that link is the one it does not feed anything other than the lampBLUE 141 F 20G Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #38 – November 15, 2012, 09:02:05 PM Quote from: 86cougar;402575I'm outside taking all the plastic and tape off the harness in front of the fire wall. I decided to double check my neutral switch before I put it back in and when I set it up with alligator clips and checked it for continuity, I found that it was intermittent. When I pushed the plunger about half way in it would beep, a little further and it would stop, then a little further and it would beep. So, I'm going to replace it. I just went outside and found the fried link!! The wire is black with orange stripe going into the large harness that goes up toward the fire wall . That's also where I saw the smoke come out. I'm waiting for the schematic to download so I can see where it goes.That switch is good !!!!! Remember the car will start in Neutral as well as Park. So if i read you correctly the switch is working PERFECTLY. Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #39 – November 16, 2012, 01:41:25 AM dont have a stick car but your description of the plunger being intermittant sounds right the way you describe it ,,here is a decent fuse link thread when i fixed my sons car, read up when you get a moment.i found and fixed it pretty quick, thread just continued a couple more pages though but there is a lesson i learned here..............do not use a random evtm for fuse link design verification. thanks to Trinom, you have the EVTM per my diy link below.I hope to scan in the 88evtm i got for my son as well... that would be very useful... and that was the year car in the below thread.I found a small boat load of fuse links in the wire loom under the battery tray... one of those blew in my case.In yours, just use common sense and splice them professionally ~solder is best~. The factory connections were cad welded splices ,, just fyisee this thread.......http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?34232-88-5.0-bird-no-start Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #40 – November 16, 2012, 06:29:01 AM Jay I thought he had an AUTO???? Not a 5 SPEEDER. If in fact he has an auto the NSS Is working perfectly. I am confused which tranny does he have!!!!! If in fact an auto. He checked the NSS OK. Remember the switch has continuity in 2 places PARK AND NEUTRAL.Also the TC print is different than his car. The print you are talking about is for a COUPE. Those 2 fuse links in series blows my mind. I have no clue why FORD did this??? But his car cranks so that black link would be good if wired like this. But the print i am looking at of his vehicle (1986 MERC ) is different. Thanks!! Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #41 – November 16, 2012, 08:57:51 AM your right if its an aod. i dont know exactly why i do it but when talking 5speed, i call it a neutral safety switch. when talking AOD, i call it a "range selector switch"i hope he takes the time to unplug the ignition switch connector, or at least look at the yellow wires going into it, if they are brown on the end,,,,,,,,,, easy and not so expensive solution. Id rather that than a dizzy with an out of the box failure or bad stator/tfi. Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #42 – November 16, 2012, 08:59:32 AM Yes, I have a 1986 Cougar with an AOD transmission and 5.0 engine. I did notice the schematic was for a different engine and year. The fuse link that blew does have another fuse link attached that is the same and it did not blow. Thanks for letting me know that my neutral switch is still good, I will put back in this morning. Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #43 – November 16, 2012, 11:48:44 AM I will give you +10 points for just removing/replacing a NSS on an AOD.Think I'd rather pull the oil pan.Props to you, brave sir. Quote Selected
Somethings wrong. Reply #44 – November 16, 2012, 12:20:45 PM When you get old like me!!!!! You test them before REMOVING THEM !!!!!!! Just me i am silly like that????? Quote Selected
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