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Topic: Somethings wrong. (Read 12881 times) previous topic - next topic

Somethings wrong.

Reply #15 –
Either the links are good or bad on this one Just saying ??????
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #16 –
your misunderstanding the fuse links.

the black sealed block you see is splice point.
i disagree ~slightly~ that they are not a high failure item.

People dont realize that the fuse links are solid conductors,, not stranded flex.
they are not meant to be moved around a lot or bent up to dress in and such. 

when you find a bad fuse link by way of your continuity test, just cut off the whole wire section even if that section consists of one or two fuse links that are good.
you dont have a choice in the matter so do it right.

finding fuse links is easy..just go to lowes, home depot or an electrical supply house and ask for the proper guage wire in **SOL** meaning solid,, not ***STR meaning stranded.
You then want to ask for 90degC rated wire or even higher temp rating if available.
the easy way to tell stranded wire from flex is that flex bends easy, stranded does not. 
I honestly dont see any reason **not** to use flex in this case as typically flex has a higher current carrying capaicty than its equivilant STR wire.
STR wire is more calibrated though in that its predictable ampacity rating / tolerance is more in line with the original application so its your choice.

you also have the choice then to pick your color.


next you find a crimp lug from the same electrical supply house with a ***LONG BARREL
cut off the tang of the lug (the part the bolt goes through),,,, or find a barrel splice big enough to hold your incoming wire and your out going fuse links.

next, find some rubber hose that you can ultimatly slid up over your barrel splice.  you want to have this new 1'' or so section of rubber line slipped up on your yellow wire first then do your barrel splice.

next crimp your conductors then slide the rubber hose section over the barrel splice then insulate with an additional layer of rubber tape or good quality 3m vinal.

all done.

or......you can mail it to me and i will fix you right up.  304 772 3411.


ps,,,,dont foget to add "No-ox-id" or anti corrosion compund to the conductors prior to inserting into your barrel splice.

basic terms here,, cut out the splices and resplice in new stuff as required.
 

Somethings wrong.

Reply #17 –
you have an 86evtm in my diy link,, per the upload done by Trinom.
there's all the wiring diagrams you need

Somethings wrong.

Reply #18 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402247
On my schematic it looks like the red/ light blue wire goes to my neutral switch, and I know being my shifter is all out of whack it is not working right. I need to go see what happened to my shift linkage. I don't have a "click" between shifts, but I can't see how that would create a short.

im thinkin your stuff just decided to blow.,,could be any reason such as low battery voltage when you powered something up ect.
if voltage is low, the device that is being powered doesnt care,, it will inturn draw more current if said current is available.

watts is watts,, you cant change that part of ohms law.
the only thing you can change is voltage, current or resistivity.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #19 –
Quote from: 86cougar;402247
On my schematic it looks like the red/ light blue wire goes to my neutral switch, and I know being my shifter is all out of whack it is not working right. I need to go see what happened to my shift linkage. I don't have a "click" between shifts, but I can't see how that would create a short.

 
im thinkin your stuff just decided to blow.,,could be any reason such as low battery voltage when you powered something up ect.
if voltage is low, the device that is being powered doesnt care,, it will inturn draw more current if said current is available.

watts is watts,, you cant change that part of ohms law.
the only thing you can change is voltage, current or resistivity.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #20 –
I just don't get it. When I had the fuse links on the car, I tested them and only one out of three showed continuity. When I took the two bad ones out and took them apart the wire was still good. They are stranded wire and the black boxes said 16 gauge. My friend and I were discussing the smoke that I saw and neither one of us could find anything that looked burnt or melted. We did check everything for voltage with the accessories turned on and off, but nothing. I think my only hope is to get the transmission set up to where the neutral switch is functioning properly, then see if we can get it to do it again (accessory on) with someone under the hood to watch for smoke. Problem is, it took about 15 minutes for it to occur the first time and about an hour the second time. Jcassity, I appreciate your help and offer. Once I figure this mystery out, I will follow your instructions and make some nice fuse links. Thanks!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #22 –
if you had no continuity across any fuse link and you feel like the conductor is not broken anywhere, then the only remaining place the circuit is broke would be in the larger chunk of rubber where the splice is located (ie-where you see the stencieling for "fuse Link")

carefull on your perception of what happens to the yellow wires as they depart the fuse links and head up towards the firewall and into the car.
one goes to the ign switch and that one turns into two wires via another fuse link in the sterring column bonding to two separate pins on the ign switch itself.

i think the other yellow wire heads up through the wire loop and into the fuse panel.

just thought i would mention that.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #23 –
Well one of the easiest ways to tell a fuse link is bad is to grab it and pull on it. If it stretches out the link is bad. Normally i dont use continuity to test them. As normally they are hot all the time with battery voltage direct from the source the  (BATTERY). A quick voltage test will confirm continuity. Simple question what is not working in the car??? Fuse links feed heavy circuits like alt cab ignition switch ETC. If the links are open something clearly is not working. What is it. Posting that will make shooting the issue much easier. Also fuse links in my experience are stranded. Some older ones looked solid but i think they were some sort of material that looked like solder. I use regular wire as links. and normally reduce the size by 2 wire sizes for protection. Or you can use a MAXI FUSE HOLDER with the desired size fuse. This way the fuse can easily be changed in the event of a short!!

I pulled a print on the ignition switch and found the ORANGE LINK. As Cassity points out it feeds the ignition switch. You might just want to check your ignition switch for burning or a melted plug. That link is a 16 gauge and you can turn on your ignition switch and feel it and see if it gets HOT. This can be dun with any fuse link. If it gets worm or hot you either have to much load on that circuit or the link is failing. A quick check with an AMMETER will decide if that is true. You can also wire in an AMMETER to the individual fuse links and check them for current draw. Then compare it to the AMPACITY OF THE LINK!!

:hick::mullet::burnout:
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #24 –
The link I attached to my last post was almost exactly what happened to me. It appears that the neutral when not in the full closed or open position will cause problems for some reason (maybe deteriorating). I haven't had any problem with my ignition switch and I was sitting in the car both times I saw smoke under the hood. If the ignition switch would have acted up I'm sure I would have seen or heard it. Being that the transmission linkage needs adjusting and the fact that in the connector the red/light blue wire (neutral switch) is included, I am hoping the problem will go away when I adjust the transmission linkage and TV cable. The first time this happened, a ground wire that went from the negative battery post to the body (about 8" long) sizzled and smoked. From the body it went to the same connector as these fuse links are gathered. So, it's all the same issue and happened just like the link I attached. To be honest, like I said before, it really doesn't make sense unless I need to replace my neutral switch do to it going bad.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #25 –
86 i hate to tell you this but their is no battery at the NSS other than the reverse lights. The NSS cranking portion is only powered up when the key is in the CRANK POSITION!!!!!

The reverse lights battery  come off a fuse in the fuse panel #5 @15Amps. If it was grounded the fuse would have blown. If you melted your bonding strap from the battery to the frame you have  an issue of bonding the engine to the battery. That is the only way the thin bonding wire would fry. Seems like you do not have your grounds in order. Many a mechanic will overlook this and it is very important. The smoke might have came from a bad ground bonding issue. Make sure the engine is properly grounded along with the body.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #26 –
Tom,
      What is NNS? To be honest, I haven't even had a chance to check out my back-up lights. I'm more concerned about getting my car started without causing a fire. I figured out the problem with my shift linkage and now it's all right. I also adjusted my TV cable like the video said to do. So, now I'm at the point where I just need to try to start my car. My friend will come over tomorrow so he can be watching the engine compartment with a volt meter in hand while I'm in the car cranking it over. The wire that fried the first time was not a fuse link, the second time I never got to see where the smoke came from and like I said nothing looked burnt. When I took the links out they looked fine.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #27 –
NSS= Neutral safety switch!
I had a feeling the links were good. It takes a lot to blow them. They are the last chain in the system of protection. Other than the alt feed ETC. Better check the battery at the alt and check your grounds. If you smoked a bonding strap grounding is an issue on your car. Did you fix the grounding issue??? Just a thought!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Somethings wrong.

Reply #28 –
That's just it, I never had a problem until the neutral switch got out of adjustment. I have two grounding straps on my engine, one on the back of the driver's side head and another on the crank case. The first wire that smoked I replaced. If I were to take a guess, I would say the neutral switch is about to go. I'm going to change it out just to be safe.

Somethings wrong.

Reply #29 –
Fuse links!  It is amazing how something so small and simple can at times cause such headaches (at least for some of us, myself included).
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