Intake manifold

Topic: Intake manifold (Read 4845 times) previous topic - next topic

Intake manifold

Reply #30 – October 19, 2012, 09:25:47 PM

S88tb,
Ok, I think I've gotten about every RTV suggested to me now. I think the only thing left is welding the head and manifold together (lol). Really, I like it when I get all these different opinions with reasons for it backing it up. Truthfully every thing I have used has just washed away. When TFYK explained the differences of RTV, I did wonder about the gray. I need something that's going to stay where I put it. Maybe TFYK will chime in and give his thought's on your suggestion. When he said that it would take a prey bar to get it off, I thought that sounds good to me. So far, for what I'm dealing with, (pitting) I like your suggestion. Oh! I unplugged (grease) another port (heat tube?) that is on the back, top side of the passenger head (right over the freeze plug). I don't even see it listed in my manual. Next??

Intake manifold

Reply #31 – October 19, 2012, 10:37:23 PM

The gasket should conform enough to deal with some small pitting, but if your heads are that rotten throw them away and get some different ones. Have you had them to the machine shop for inspection, cleaning and resurfacing? It costs less than you might think and there's nothing as nice as clean parts and nice surfaces.
Your 86 SO motor probably won't take E7's or GT40's without flycut pistons, but there are tons of good stockers out there if things are that bad. You can use grey if you want, but it's not like you're running a continuous seal with it, you're just sealing the corners. This is not an application where you need what grey has to offer. And the bolts will keep the intake where you put it. That's not RTV's job. The ports on the back of the heads are for air injection I think. They don't affect the way it runs.
Sick, your buddy is right you should only ever have to clean the gasket surface with a razor blade. Anything more harsh risks disrupting the sealing surface, especially with aluminum. If it's ever so bad you feel like grabbing a power tool, reach for some chemical gasket remover and then go back to the razor blade. Cast iron is fairly forgiving, but don't risk shooting yourself in the foot.

Intake manifold

Reply #32 – October 20, 2012, 11:03:10 AM

TFYK,
Thanks again! The pitting really is not that bad. About 1/8" around the coolant ports. I'm replacing the head gaskets also with FEL-PRO just to be safe. I've only taken the passenger side head off for now. The head looks good, no cracks. I spent yesterday cleaning it up and I should be finished with it today and I can paint it. For as old as it is there really is very little build up in the head. Other than oil saturated, it's pretty clean. So, what I've been told is I should wipe it off with acetone?

Intake manifold

Reply #33 – October 20, 2012, 11:04:44 AM

or brake cleaner

Intake manifold

Reply #34 – October 20, 2012, 07:49:03 PM

It does take a good feel and eye and the right wheel if using a whizz wheel(everybody seems to call it something different). The plastic wheels are specifically for aluminum and work like magic, hardly abrasive at all...I've seen a lot of people gouge aluminum with a razor blade...I don't have time for all that and it's never compromised a gasket surface for me yet...it's not idiot-proof though and I don't recommend it for novices with a heavy hand and an 80-grit sanding disc...lol.

86cougar, good luck and get'er sealed up!

-Don

Intake manifold

Reply #35 – October 20, 2012, 10:41:13 PM

The 3M Roloc wheels that I use are made out of spun Aluminum Oxide, thus are softer than either steel, iron or aluminum. You might also note that I specified taking your time and using low speed. These pads are specifically designed to prep surfaces without gouging. Even on the much softer aluminum, as long as you keep the disc moving, you shouldn't have any issues.

Intake manifold

Reply #36 – October 20, 2012, 11:16:44 PM

Crazy88,
I'm glad you joined us! I just got through cleaning up one head and no matter what I try to clean it up with it is saturated in oil. I have some Roloc wheels, I also have some aluminum oxide disc for my orbital sander from 180-600 grit. I imagine the same could be said for it, light touch and keep it moving.

Intake manifold

Reply #37 – October 21, 2012, 12:18:41 AM

What do you mean saturated with oil? Can you post pics? As for the Aluminum oxide discs for your orbital sander, I would avoid something that is designed to be used for sanding... but the prinl of keeping the tool moving is right on the money.

Intake manifold

Reply #38 – October 21, 2012, 09:41:30 AM

I'm still working on getting pictures. The head is a dark brown where all the gaskets go. Would a scotch brite pad help? I had some carb. cleaner handy so I tried that and it didn't faze it. I need to get me some more brake cleaner and try that. The head still feels like it has a film on it.

Intake manifold

Reply #39 – October 21, 2012, 06:25:10 PM

I bought some more brake cleaner and it sure made a big difference compared to the carb. cleaner.

Intake manifold

Reply #40 – November 07, 2012, 06:54:08 PM

I just wanted to let you guys know that I cleaned up the heads and intake manifold till it shined. I started the car up yesterday and it ran great for about an hour. Good oil pressure, no smoke out the exhaust. idled smooth, and revved up nice. I checked the oil this morning and I saw NO coolant! Now I need to find my electrical problem. "Thanks!" from me to all of you who helped me!

Intake manifold

Reply #41 – November 08, 2012, 07:25:47 AM

Quote from: 86cougar;402162

I just wanted to let you guys know that I cleaned up the heads and intake manifold till it shined. I started the car up yesterday and it ran great for about an hour. Good oil pressure, no smoke out the exhaust. idled smooth, and revved up nice. I checked the oil this morning and I saw NO coolant! Now I need to find my electrical problem. "Thanks!" from me to all of you who helped me!

Congratulations!

Intake manifold

Reply #42 – November 08, 2012, 09:51:48 AM

Quote from: TheFoeYouKnow;400786

THERE IS ONLY 1 USE FOR RTV IN A HEADGASKET JOB AND YOU DON'T USE BLUE. Blue is not oil resistant, it will swell and leak. Use black, in a 1/4"x 3/4" bead at the corners where the intake front and back seals meet the head, place the seals down, and then do it again over top of the end seals. EVERYPLACE ELSE IS DRY. Using RTV where it doesn't belong does not prevent leaks, it creates them. It you removed the timing cover, use a small blob at the corner where the oil pan meets the block before you put the cover back on. NO PLACE ELSE. We have an engine rebuilder here in town whose engines come in to OUR shop packed full of orange RTV. We can't make them stop, their poor customers are paying for the same work twice because those retards don't know how to use RTV.

So that I am very clear, see this pic:

First off according to GE the color means NOTHING. They are all 100% silicone. Call them if you need verification. And we never use the end gaskets to install a manifold. We use a bead of silicone across the front and rear and just a moderate amount. Those rail gaskets leak CASE CLOSED. We do use a modified GRAY Silicone base sealant that is recommended by IH. It has a Ford part number for their DIESELS which are IH any way. If a gasket wont seal your parts you need to either replace the part or have it SURFACED. Just Me could be WRONG!!!

Here it is we buy it by the case load. By the way SILICONE has an expiration DATE!!! BETTER CHECK IT!!!!!

Intake manifold

Reply #43 – November 08, 2012, 12:18:07 PM

Tom,
One thing I noticed was that I was only putting RTV on the top of the end gaskets. This time I put some on both top and bottom at the valley corners. The oil looks good and I'm not getting any smoke out the exhaust now. Also, the carb. cleaner was not doing half the job the brake cleaner did. That made a big difference. I took the heads off and put them on my bench and cleaned them up as well, then put on new head gaskets. Taking out the thermactor bump, I took some valve grinding and cleaned up the valves a little, new gaskets, cleaned the fuel injectors, smoothed out the ports on the intake and head, but it sure seemed to make a big difference in the pressure coming out the exhaust. I also have air being pumped into the exhaust that I didn't have before because the heads were plugged. Then I put a filter right after my charcoal canister like you suggested. Thanks! for all your help!!

Intake manifold

Reply #44 – November 08, 2012, 01:00:59 PM

No problem. We see a lot of those canisters broken and charcoal sucked in to the engine!!! NEVER USE THE FRONT OR REAR GASKETS. Use a continuous bead of silicone. BLUE IF YOU LIKE!!!

THERE IS ONLY 1 USE FOR RTV IN A HEADGASKET JOB AND YOU DON'T USE BLUE. Blue is not oil resistant, NOT TRUE!!!

86 here is the specks on BLUE PERMATEX. Totally fine for oil and the OLD WIVES TAILS KEEP COMING!!!!!

Permatex® Ultra Blue® Multipurpose RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
OEM specified. Designed specially for high-torque and high vibration
applications, like those common in import engines, this premium RTV
gasket maker exceeds manufacturers’ performance requirements. Sensorsafe,
low odor, and noncorrosive. Maximum vibration resistance, with
outstanding resistance to oils, cooling and shop fluids. Guaranteed not
to leak. Temperature range -65?F to 500?F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.