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Topic: Headlights, instrument cluster lights, and radio does not work. (Read 4408 times) previous topic - next topic

Headlights, instrument cluster lights, and radio does not work.

Reply #15 –
@softtouch 
I disagree with your assertion that the 60A alternator is somehow adequate.  My first replacement alternator was a stocker, a 2nd gen unit. I ran out of available output current easily.  First you may say that I have electrical problems then, but you would be wrong.  I spent a lot of time working out electrical problems as soon as I bought the car and afterwards I could draw more than the alternator's output. The charging system tech the car came with is simply inadequate. To prove this point, I was able to use only electrical accessories that came on the car to achieve that 155A max load test result with my latest 3g alternator.  That means that the car can draw 155 amps all by itself.  Hows a 60 amp unit supposed to support that.

Headlights, instrument cluster lights, and radio does not work.

Reply #16 –
my 20th has a stocker alternator and with all things on that can be turned on including leaving trunk, hood and doors open with turnsignals flashing and brake lights illuminated, i draw 54amps.

the stock alternator is "sufficient" but i would not engineer it so close to current limit.  the 3g is a good upgrade with the right wiring to complement it.

i agree with all the points being made, the idea that the alternator is so close to current limit over time though drasitcially effects the electrical connections due to high current draw and heat deterioration.  im not saying anything you all dont already know, just sayin, softtouch is right, the alt worked for many of us all these years and eventually things start to break down.

Headlights, instrument cluster lights, and radio does not work.

Reply #17 –
This is how I do full load test: blower at max, defrost on, AC on, flash to pass, brakes, 4 way flashers and hold window switches in up position. Additionally I have an electric fan (installed AFTER 3G upgrade) that is wired to a thermoswitch, but I also have a bypass switch for the relay, so the fan is on (my fan is regulated so draw is about 12 amps). All together over 150 amps.  Also I installed a Mustang GT/Police alternator pulley (has a 1 way over-running clutch) to prevent belt squeak on hard upshifts. It sounds really cool when the engine stops and the alternator keeps spinning few a few seconds.
 

Headlights, instrument cluster lights, and radio does not work.

Reply #18 –
gotta love how things are engineered "min specs"..... your right though, stock is cuttin it close but..... thats why we need good mods to get the hell of that ignition and headlamp switch as a begining to a 3g upgrade.  im not runnin 3g yet, kinda afraid to mod the 20th to that level of a visual change.