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Topic: 1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender (Read 7136 times) previous topic - next topic

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Does anyone know where to get a hold of a fuel sender for a 1983 thunderbird, or will one out of a 1984 ford thunderbird work (would they have the same resistance)?  The only difference is the pin setup, 1984 has a four pin oval connector, 1983 has a round 3 pin setup and a separate single pin for the fuel sender.  Any information on this matter would be appreciated.

Alex

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #1 –
if this helps any, I took a tank from an 88 senders and wiring pigtails and installed it in my 83 TC and everything works fine. so if you can get one from an 84 get the plug and about a foot or so of the wiring and put it together.

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #2 –
When you replaced all of the components, did you remove the exterior fuel pump as well, and did you use the sending unit from a 1988 turbo coupe?

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #3 –
Don't have any documentation for 83.
For 84 through 88 the sender resistance is 8 to 12 ohms full and 60 to 86 ohms empty for the buttstuffog gauge.
Odds are pretty good they are the same.

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #4 –
Do you recall how the wiring went,, and if you removed the exterior fuel pump?

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #5 –
I dont recall mine having an exterior pump with it being a TC I dont think it had one.  but if yours has the exterior pump I would remove it if using the newer tank and sender, as far as the wiring everything was cut and splice easy as pie.

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #6 –
I am guessing that the larger fuel tank did not give you any problems either?  The 1983 is an 18 gallon tank and an 88 is a 22 gallon if I recall correctly.  I am really thinking of using the newer tank in mine if it is a simple bolt in.

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #8 –
If that is the worst of it I will have to give it a try.

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #9 –
I was wondering what resistance values our senders had at full and empty positions.  I saw your post Softtouch.  Thanks for the info!
William

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #10 –
For those going to a newer gas tank, just be aware that the size of the fuel lines is different (5/16 and 1/4 barbs for older tanks and 3/8 and 5/16 barbs for newer tanks).  I did a quick patch with some repair lines from Auto Zone, but I will be replacing the lines in the near future.

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #11 –
There are several different sized tanks for our cars, and also a change in resistance for the fuel level senders. BE SURE you get the correct sender for your year/gauge/engine!

1983-86: 75 Ohms empty, 10 Ohms full
1987-88: 16 Ohms empty, 158 Ohms full

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #12 –
83-88 Thunderbird sender specks!!

 buttstuffOG GAUGES  60---86 ohms at empty stop and 8---12 ohms at full stop.

Electronic DASH is 10-160 OHMS

:hick::hick:
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #13 –
anytime this topic is brought up, the more info the better.................... 4year old thread below

Fuel sending unit (buttstuffog and digital cluster)
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?22137-fuel-sending-unit


and from my diy link below..........

==============================================
Fuel sending unit info

Conventional "buttstuffog cluster"
87 Evtm page 127 or 129 shows
Empty - resistance - 60 to 86 ohms
Full - resistance - 8 to 12 ohms

Fully Electronic cluster
87 shop manual 33-05-23 troubleshooting step TJ6 shows
Empty- resistance-9-12ohms
Full-high resistance - 154-160ohms




88 turbo was able to verify his fuel guage was working properly. Just unplug the gray two wire connector "C491" under the package shelf accessable in the trunk. The two wires are yellow/white and a black. Insert a 10 ohm resistor in tehplug crossing the yellow/white and black wire. Make sure you have jumpered the fuel guage side of the wiring harness with this 10ohm resistor. Turn on your key and the needle should peg showing a full tank. This test was performed on a thunderbird turbo version. I wouldnt think it would be different for 3.8 or 5.0 engines but one never knows.

lay on your back under the tank
look to the right
find a two wire harness
one wire is yellow / white
the other is likely black.
this should be the sender harness

grab harness and follow its path up
it should be going up and finally under your package shelf in the trunk
package shelf-in trunk up near speakers



get in trunk
look for a connector with yellow white wire and a black
unhook connector
one end goes to your dash guage
the other goes to the sender

disconnect sender connector
connect red meter lead to the yellow white
connect black meter lead directly to the metal tank***
do not deviate from the above two steps or reading may be wrong
set meter to resistance and read
jot down that number you get
add 5gal of gas
read sender
jot down that number

if there is a change then the sender is assumed to be good.

To test the guage, insert a paper clip in the connector (C491)
This connector is the other end you disconnected leading to the guage
turn on key
gas needle will peg if its good
gas needle will peg if its a conventional cluster
gas needle will go to empty if its a digital cluster sender

go to my diy link below for details.
go to my electrical tech sticky "1987 evtm" page 129 for wiring diagram.
post your results

You can define what sender you have based on your readings as well as determin if it works.

I have often thought that if one puts a digital cluster sender in a conventional dash car, the leads on the guage can be flipped there to compensate for the tank circuit,,,,,,,,,,(you getting this daminc?)

1983 Thunderbird fuel level sender

Reply #14 –
Last week, I found a vineyard that had two T Birds with buttstuffog clusters.  I dropped both of their fuel tanks and removed their fuel senders.  I used a Fluke meter to check them.  One sender was garbage, the other one showed 10 ohms in the full position and around 80 ohms in the empty position.  When I slowly swung its arm from empty to full and back again, the Fluke showed a nice, smooth change in resistance, so I knew it was a keeper.  I brought it home and installed it.  I'm proud to say that my car now has an potable fuel gauge for the first time since I bought it.  :)
William