Skip to main content
Topic: EGR Valve & Air Pump (Read 2278 times) previous topic - next topic

EGR Valve & Air Pump

So I've swapped the factory exhaust manifolds for some shorty headman headers and would I would like to ditch the EGR valve all-together. Is this possible? I'd like to cap the inlet at the block (below the header on the back of the engine on the drivers side) and take the air pump out as well. Can I do this and if so, what kind of serpentine belt do I need to pick up -- since the air pump will now be omitted from the system. Has anybody done this and what are the affects?

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #1
are you talking about the EGR tube that runs to the back of the heads? i've only messed with these once.. but i took them off, cut the tube to where there's only 1/2" or so left sticking out of the little 'block' that bolts to the head. i then crushed the end (so it's closed), welded it and reinstalled on the head. i think the holes are threaded on some heads, but i'm not even 75% sure on that.. the way i did it was temporary but held strong for 4-5 months.. at that point, i changed heads, but i'm sure it would have held together fine
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #2
That's what I'm talking about. What you did successfully has me excited and I'll see if I can come up with a more permanent fix. How much of the accompanying hoses did you take off the car? Did you take take the air pump off as well? Without the EGR valve I see the air pump as dead weight but I don't know if I need it for the serpentine belt -- i.e., is there a serpentine belt for 302 engine that has all the other accessories (air conditioning) but no air pump?

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #3
Okay, I just found this by googeling what I was looking for - sorry I can't get the picture to paste, but the link is also below:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/508030-serpentine-belt-5-0l-minus-smog-pump.html

This is a standard 6-rib belt 84.5" long belt. It can be found at NAPA as a belt with the last 3 part numbers being ...845. Surely many other places too.
All credit goes to Jim_Williamson, the info and the pic. When he showed me this I slapped my head and said: "Why the hell didn't I think of that!". It couldn't be more simple and it works.

I guess I'll give this a shot unless somebody has something else to post.

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #4
that's basically it.. you pop off the pump, throw it in the s pile and get a shorter belt.. the 'smog pump elimination pulley' is a big hoax.. it's not needed for mustangs/birds/cougars but it's something they get simple people to buy when they can't figure out what belt to get.. for future shorter belt problems, there's an easy method to figuring out what you need. just take your old belt, simply cut it, wrap it around all the pulleys as it normally would (keep a marker or chalk in hand or within reach) and mark the belt where the end overlaps the other end.. pull it off and measure it. in this case, you will probably end up with a number around 85-1/2" or so.. deduct 1" from that number and you have the belt length you need.. that's my approach to the 'what belt do i need' fiasco lol
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #5
here is another solution that myself and several friends have used for plugging the EGR ports in the head
1. unbolt the tube from the heads
2. cut the tubes off even with the part that bolts to the head
3. clean the parts that bolt to the head really good
4. flip them over, swap them side-side, and bolt them back on with some high temp silicone

worked on my old 88 Sport, my buddys 87, my brothers mustang, and 2 other mustangs. quick and easy... better yet FREE if you already have silicone
Currently Birdless but never Foxless

86 Mustang GT

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #6
never even thought of that.. LOL
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver


EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #8
Quote from: Dougy_Fresh;373741
here is another solution that myself and several friends have used for plugging the EGR ports in the head
1. unbolt the tube from the heads
2. cut the tubes off even with the part that bolts to the head
3. clean the parts that bolt to the head really good
4. flip them over, swap them side-side, and bolt them back on with some high temp silicone

worked on my old 88 Sport, my buddys 87, my brothers mustang, and 2 other mustangs. quick and easy... better yet FREE if you already have silicone

This is what I always have done, works great.
95 Ranger Splash 2.3
88 Tbird Sport :ies::ies:
5.0 SO, stainless shorty headers, w/ Magnaflow lers. KYB struts, KYB shocks. 5lug conversion from sn95 Mustang, subframe connectors, drilled and slotted rotors, 03 Mach 1 wheels. sequential taillights.140 speedo

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #9
Quote from: mcb82gt;373760
If you want to plug them with the bolts, here is one source.  I believe all the holes are threaded.

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators/products/thermactor-smog-plugs


they are threaded, but the threads will DEFINATELY be packed full of carbon and be dang near impossible to clean out with the engine in the car. it took me about 30 minutes a head with brake cleaner and a pick set to clean out the last ones i actually put plugs in
Currently Birdless but never Foxless

86 Mustang GT

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #10
I used  snapped off spark plugs on my old e7's.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #11
Thanks for your help guys. I have another issue though. I've gone as low as 81 1/8" belt and still its too long. I've also noticed the gap between the bottom of the tensioner and wheel below it is almost non existent. Where the pic from the link in an earlier reply from a mustang forum shows there being at least 1 1/2" inches. The tensioner in this pic is also at about a 120 degree angle where mine is almost directly vertical or about 90 degrees. I'm not sure if that's all the difference and I just need to go with a shorter belt that will put the tensioner at the position and provide the additional space I need but I don't think that will work. Any ideas or solutions?

EGR Valve & Air Pump

Reply #12
Finally got it. After, no joke, 7 trips to the local auto shop, picking up three belts at a time, I finally got it; 87 5/8" belt.