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Topic: Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished (Read 7445 times) previous topic - next topic

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #15 –
Just ordered Steeda's double hook aluminum quadrant and adjustable clutch cable.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #16 –
I have the Steeda unit double hook and adjustable clutch cable on my Coupe and the Bird with zero issues.  Had the cable on the Mustang for 8 years as a daily driver and only replaced it a couple of years ago as the outer casing was rubbing on the stock K-memeber.  Solved the problem by replacing the K-member with a tubular one and installed a new cable.  I did not shim the quadrants and they make zero noise as I like my pedal to be at the top so there is a little preload on the cable.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #17 –
Quote from: Aerocoupe;373317
I have the Steeda unit double hook and adjustable clutch cable on my Coupe and the Bird with zero issues.  Had the cable on the Mustang for 8 years as a daily driver and only replaced it a couple of years ago as the outer casing was rubbing on the stock K-memeber.  Solved the problem by replacing the K-member with a tubular one and installed a new cable.  I did not shim the quadrants and they make zero noise as I like my pedal to be at the top so there is a little preload on the cable.

Darren


Darren, good to hear positive feedback from someone else who has had success with this combo.  What "hook" did you use on your quadrant?  I am not worried about the cable wearing out or breaking anytime soon as I don't drive the car all that much.  Eventually I will probably get a spare to keep in the trunk just in case.

I ordered the quadrant and cable from Summitt racing on Wednesday night and came home from work Thursday to find it on my back porch.  Talk about quick shipping!

I am dreading it, but will probably start on things next week sometime.  I absolutely hate working under the dash of a car, but removing the front seat should help things along.  Everyone told me the pedal swap was the worst part of the T-5 swap and I didn't really think it was all that bad...but then again I had the mindset going into it that it was going to be horrible.  lol...I'm thinking changing out the quadrant can't be nearly as bad as the pedal swap.
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #18 –
It has been over 10 years since I installed both so I really don't remember on the Bird but I want to say the second hook was not an option due to cable length issues when I replaced the one on the Mustang.  I do remember using an air type sawsall (Craftsman unit with about a 2-3" long blade) to aid in removing the stock plastic quadrant.  I went through the clutch cable hole from the engine compartment and just hacked it off as it is much larger than the aluminum piece.  Once I did this and quit fighting the stock unit the install went pretty quick.  I did not drop the column or pedals but I did remove the driver seat.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #19 –
Wow,You didn't use a factory cable! at least your going to carry a spare.lol. You will know how to adjust it when you hook it up,the cable will only  reach one hook.Give it very little play.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #20 –
Also wrap a little electrical tape around the trans end of the cable it frustrating when you get the cable in the quadrant hook just to have it slip back out when you crawl under the car to move the cable rearranging the the clutch fork
87 TC
HO Swap, T5 Swap, Mach Springs, CHE Upper and Lower control arms, Mach Chin spoiler, soon to be Procharged.

:evilgrin: Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD you want to hit it but are scared of the consequences. :evilgrin:

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #21 –
Quote from: Dan B.;373062
What do you mean by "too low".  I'm pretty sure my pedal box came from a 4 banger car.

 
It won't start disgengaging the clutch until the pedal is on the floor. The main difference on the 4 cylinder clutch pedal is the square hole the pedal uses to mount to the pedal box is clocked in a different position that makes the clutch pedal sit almost the same height from the floor as the brake pedal. Which is fine for 4 cylinders, but V8 cars need a longer throw on the clutch to disengage it.

The good news is that changing the clutch pedal is easy; it just takes a ratcheting wrench to remove the nut that holds the clutch pedal on.

4 cylinder pedals


V8 pedals
Matt
1984 Thunderbird - 89 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600 cfm 4bbl, Mustang headers, Jegs o/r H pipe, Dynomax lers, Mustang AOD and shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, 3G alternator, Mustang front and rear sway bars, KYB SN-95 front struts and shocks, and 11" front brakes.

1988 Mustang GT - GT40 heads, Explorer intake, 70mm throttle body, 70mm MAF, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 deluxe handle, aluminum clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, o/r h pipe, Dynomax lers, 3G alternator, aluminum radiator, and 3.27 gears.
 
1986 Cougar 5.0, 1989 Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 1980 Mercury Zephyr 4 door (sold)

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #22 –
The same could probably be accomplished with the 4cyl pedal by applying heat to it with an acetylene torch and then bending it upwards a tad. (removed from the car of couse, lol)
'88 'bird, 10.9:1 306 w/TFS top end, forged rods/pistons, T-5 swap & bunch of other stuff, 1-family owned, had it since ‘98, 5.0tbrd88 on Instagram and YouTube

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #23 –
My Coupe was a 4 cylinder car and is now a 5.0.  Never changed the pedals and the clutch engages at the top of the pedal.  I would not think that the distance to fully engage a diaphram style clutch would be any different between a 4 cylinder and a 5.0 car as there is no difference between the input shafts on the T-5 in the cars with the exception of the pilot bearing ID on the input shaft.  To me this means the bell housings are roughtly the same depth.  I just cannot see Ford making two different pedal assemblies for the Mustangs when they could change the clutch fork pivot ball location to change the engagement distance.  I am pretty sure the TC pedals are fine when changing to a V-8 in those cars as well.  It all seems pretty strange to me but you have obviously found a differnce and have the proof.  Never would have figured there was a difference it what I am trying to say.

Darren

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp
 

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #24 –
I never would have either until I had the two pedals off and side by side. I pulled the pedal box out of a 4 cylinder Mustang at the junkyard. I had heard several times that the pedals for 4 cylinder and V8 were different, and that it was possibly causing my low clutch pedal, but I didn't know exactly what the difference was until I compared the pedals side by side. I wish I would've thought to take a pic while they were both off haha. The only reason I can think they're different is the bell crank on 4 cylinder bellhousings. You're right about the TC pedals; they're the same as V8 pedals, maybe because the TC was more performance oriented. I suspect Turbo Mustangs will work also, but I can't say for sure because I haven't seen a set in person yet.
Matt
1984 Thunderbird - 89 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and 600 cfm 4bbl, Mustang headers, Jegs o/r H pipe, Dynomax lers, Mustang AOD and shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, 3G alternator, Mustang front and rear sway bars, KYB SN-95 front struts and shocks, and 11" front brakes.

1988 Mustang GT - GT40 heads, Explorer intake, 70mm throttle body, 70mm MAF, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 deluxe handle, aluminum clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, o/r h pipe, Dynomax lers, 3G alternator, aluminum radiator, and 3.27 gears.
 
1986 Cougar 5.0, 1989 Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 1980 Mercury Zephyr 4 door (sold)

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #25 –
The
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #26 –
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I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #27 –
[qu
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #28 –
I have to keep mine adjusted with about a 1/4 " free play to work right. I even took the mat out to help.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Steeda Clutch quadrant and adjustable cable swap finished

Reply #29 –
Quote from: TOM Renzo;373498
The V8 ball is on the pass side...


If you're talking about the trans end of the clutch cable, the 5.0 T5 fork and cable end are on the driver's side...
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)