T5 or built C4?

Topic: T5 or built C4? (Read 6160 times) previous topic - next topic

T5 or built C4?

Reply #15 – August 10, 2011, 02:56:24 AM

I forgot to mention that my aod will recieve all the proper valvebody/clutch upgrades before I ever install it. Now hopefully I can find a good used converter in bowling green this october at the nmra finals.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #16 – August 10, 2011, 06:24:20 AM

700R4 Pro Street 1988 & Up
Part Number: 700PS

Transmission is for Pro Street/Strip use. Smooth part throttle shifts, firm WOT shifts. Handles about 650-675 FWHP with 10" or smaller torque converter. Transmission is custom built to match your engine, torque converter, & your driving conditions. One year warranty. Transmission is "dyno tested".
Price: $1,985.00

I used the PG as an example that any tranny can be made strong. I was not suggesting using one on the street. If an auto is your thing FINE i personally run 6 SPEEDERS in my cars . In my BLOWN Chevy BB 572 I run a 400 Turbo. My Camaro is the only car i own other my normal drivers that has an AUTO TRANNY. Once again a stock AOD is limited as most stock trannys are. The T5 is also weak thats a given. I just voiced some info on the subject thats all. Sorry for Triggering your DEFENSE MECHANISMS on my posts. Basically an AOD has to have internal mods to last behind an engine that has GUTS. Its not my mission in life to make it sound like i am a SNOOTY RICH GUY. All i am doing is voicing an opinion. If installing a clutch pedal is brain surgery for you RUN AN AUTO. Have a nice day

Sport 302 i do not post to annoy you please dont take my posts so seriously. Different strokes for different folks. Their are people on this planet that think Toyotas are CARS. I for one dont. Thats life have a good day 302.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #17 – August 10, 2011, 09:19:16 AM

My '76 Grand Prix had a 455 and TH400. I couldn't kill that tranny.

Anyway....I had a few AOD's in my Birds, Even from the Mark VII..... and I actually prefer the T-5. My last AOD had a shift kit and was great, but once I installed the T-5, no looking back. My T-5 was re-built in Oklahoma City for extreme duty. Otherwise, I probably would've killed it by now.

The pedal assembly swap for the T-5 was no big deal. Took about an hour and a half taking my time and talking a lot while I was working. I pulled the driver seat and the column to speed the process and gain a lot of needed work space. The actual tranny swap took 4 hours.

In the end, it's all about what the owner of the car wants. Some prefer an auto, some prefer to row the gears manually. I just do what i want for the Sport for myself. It's all about me.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #18 – August 10, 2011, 10:19:41 AM

FYI for those who dont know.. the overdrive ratio is the same on the AOD and T5

T5 or built C4?

Reply #19 – August 10, 2011, 12:45:34 PM

OD ratio for the AOD

.67

OD ratio for the T5

.63
.68
.73
.78
.79
.80
.81
.85

Not all T5 trannys have the same OD ratios. And according to BW none have a ratio of .67 like the AOD

T5 or built C4?

Reply #20 – August 10, 2011, 12:50:52 PM

My '76 Grand Prix had a 455 and TH400. I couldn't kill that tranny.

I am going out on a limb her to say the two strongest trannys in 3 speed configuration STOCK would be a C6 And a 400 Turbo.

Looking at an OD automatic for fords i would say the AOD is the strongest. And if an auto is your thing for fords in OD configuration it would definitely be the AOD.

Vinny you had a 455 GREAT MOTOR. NUNZI used to build some of the fastest Pontiacs around.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #21 – August 10, 2011, 12:57:27 PM

Default

My '76 Grand Prix had a 455 and TH400. I couldn't kill that tranny.

Reminds me of the old days with NUNZI. Talk about fast Pontiacs!!!!!!!!!!!!.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #22 – August 10, 2011, 07:32:51 PM

I have a built AOD (A+ billet servo, 2" OD band, epoxy mody, automatic or manual shifting, beefeed up clutches, 2800 non lock up converter yada yada) and the thing is FUN. It snaps off shifts faster than I could ever hope to do in a T5. Was it expensive? Yes. Is it overkill for my combo? Yes. Will I kill the AOD if I went with a 331 or 347 in the future? No.

Here's the thing: a stock AOD or T5 is weak. If you want a reliable transmission behind a modified engine it's going to cost $$.

Oh and the Mark VII AOD is longer than the Mustang/T-bird AOD. To run it you'll need to have your driveshaft shortened.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #23 – August 10, 2011, 07:51:04 PM

Quote from: thunderjet302;364932

I have a built AOD (A+ billet servo, 2" OD band, epoxy mody, automatic or manual shifting, beefeed up clutches, 2800 non lock up converter yada yada) and the thing is FUN. It snaps off shifts faster than I could ever hope to do in a T5. Was it expensive? Yes. Is it overkill for my combo? Yes. Will I kill the AOD if I went with a 331 or 347 in the future? No.

Here's the thing: a stock AOD or T5 is weak. If you want a reliable transmission behind a modified engine it's going to cost $$.

Oh and the Mark VII AOD is longer than the Mustang/T-bird AOD. To run it you'll need to have your driveshaft shortened.

Thats what i was saying. A good Slush BOX costs in the neighborhood of 2 LARGE. Making any auto strong costs BUCKS. Thanks for the response. I appreciate it.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #24 – August 10, 2011, 08:18:52 PM

You have to spend some bucks on the T5 or AOD but I think it's worth it. Now when you talk Pontiac thats my thing. It's all I ever raced or drove up till I bumped my head and went ford. Lol. The last one I had was a 76 GP SJ. The good part was it only cost me $500 to have the almost indestructible turbo 400 buit for it. Nunzi is great, So is Jim Hand.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #25 – August 10, 2011, 08:19:11 PM

The Grand Prix I had also had a trans Am shaker hood scoop as well. The hood was from a Can Am as was the scoop assembly (shared with the T/A). I loved that car. Had every option available at the time. That Pontiac put out crazy amounts of torque.

I had a Dodge with a 440 and a 727 Torqueflite. That was a wicked strong tranny as well. Brutal car.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #26 – August 10, 2011, 08:33:53 PM

I've had GTO's and Firebirds but my favorite were always the Grand Prix. I had a 71 that was very cool, alot of 76 and 77's. I had a 77 with a 40 over 428, 400 trans, 323 gears that was mt DD. I used the air cond everyday. On street tires with a quadrajet it would run high 12's to low 13's.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #27 – August 12, 2011, 02:16:42 AM

Quote from: thunderjet302;364932

Oh and the Mark VII AOD is longer than the Mustang/T-bird AOD. To run it you'll need to have your driveshaft shortened.

OH, I was under impression I could swap tailshafts. maybe I'm wrong.

T5 or built C4?

Reply #28 – August 12, 2011, 02:54:00 AM

Ah I am wrong. All of the aod/e/4r70w tailshafts are swappable, but the mark vii output shaft is the critical piece @ 1" longer. I can swap the tailshaft with my cougar's stock tail, but then my stock driveshaft slipyoke *might* bottom out on the mark vii output shaft when the suspension is fully compressed.

Seems like I'll be getting my driveshaft shortened after all...

T5 or built C4?

Reply #29 – August 12, 2011, 06:23:01 AM

To determine the "effective" first-gear-ratio improvement derived from using the wide ratio gear-set in a given application, simply multiply your rear axle ratio by 1.183 to obtain the equivalent standard gear-set axle ratio. In other words, a 3.27-1 axle ratio with a wide ratio gear-set will provide the equivalent of a 3.87-1 axle ratio with a standard ratio gear-set in first gear while providing identical ratios (and resultant cruise RPM’s) in third and only slightly different overdrive ratios. Essentially, the wide ratio kit makes your vehicle act as if it has a lower (higher numerically) axle ratio for maximum acceleration without sacrificing fuel mileage and increasing engine wear as a rear end gear swap would do. For most mild street vehicles, the wide ratio gear-set works best with a 3.27 or 3.55-1 rear axle ratio. Your transmission is already a wide ratio and electronically controlled. So is that what you want to do???? Run an E-AOD

OK 87 merc now you want a wide ratio GEAR BOX THATS ELECTRONIC. I do not have a clue what you are trying to do at this point. Do you want an AOD close ratio NON ELECTRONIC or an AOD-W Electronic unit with the longer TAIL SHAFT. With the wide ratio you will drop more RPM through the gears but gain First gear RATIO. Your posts are FASCINATING to be honest. Do you intend to use the E series AOD or just the AOD??????????????