Alternator wires? Reply #45 – August 05, 2011, 12:23:47 AM Quote from: nbzimmer;364630Well thanks for the input, but I wasn't really responding to the original poster. Also, I don't think you read what I said, because I didn't say I was reading across the battery. My test light is in series between the negative cable and the negative post. my error, sorry bout that Quote Selected
Alternator wires? Reply #46 – August 05, 2011, 02:00:47 PM Quote from: softtouch;364646I don't understand this. That's a quick draw to not light the light, unless the battery didn't have much of a charge to begin with. The bat was charged and load tested at 100% Has the alternator ever worked since the 3G upgrade?What type of current overload protection do you have between the battery and the alternator?The stock 2.3 has a green 14 gage fuse link. The alt worked I did the swap last summer. I took it to a re-builder to separate the case to bead blast and clear coat (it wasn't pretty)I used a amp wafer fuse between the bat and alt.Can you post a link to the 3G upgrade instructions you used? I cant find a link with a trunk mount batt but I used the 3g stickyWow first time replying with quotes will have to work on that? Quote Selected
Alternator wires? Reply #47 – August 08, 2011, 09:45:35 PM Quote from: softtouch;364645First make sure no lights are on. Doors and trunk are closed. Take the bulb out of the under the hood light.The EVTM shows two smaller wires on the solenoid terminal with the battery cable.They both go to three fuse links.Take the fuses out to see if one turns the light out.What color are the fuse links on the wire that has the problem?Well now I am showing my lack of electrical knowledge. I had wondered if the hood light might make a difference, but since it wasn't lighting up when I put the test light in series, I didn't worry about it. But sure enough, when I took the hood bulb out, the test light didn't light up anymore. So I guess my problem isn't related to a drain on the battery.Thanks for all the help, and thanks to "thewestie" for letting me jump in on his thread. I thought maybe we had the same problem, but I guess not. Now back to the drawing board. Quote Selected
Alternator wires? Reply #49 – August 09, 2011, 06:12:54 AM Just a thought here. WHAT TYPE OF TEST LIGHT ARE YOU USING?? I had a Gm Diesel with a glow plug code in the ECM and had one of my apprentices check out the glow plugs with a test light. Thats how you test them. You clip one end of the test light on battery and back probe the Glow plug with the wire removed. If the test light lights the glow plug is normally good. Joe came to me and said all the glow plugs were GOOD. Impossible i said we have a code in the ecm. So joe did a Glow plug test again and the test light lit on every one of them. Well as the old dog i am i smiled at joe and said you are 100% correct that test light tested those Glow plugs OK. But wait!! Here is what i did !! I grabbed my old FASHIONED BULB type test light and had Joe do the test again. WELL WHAT DO YOU KNOW!! Joe Found a BAD Glow plug on number one cylinder. Baffled by why his test light didn't pick up the bad glow plug he asked me WHY. Well he had one of those sensor safe ones that he bought from the SNAP ON GUY. He paid a BLOODY fortune for it and it does have its PLACE in trouble shooting. But not for walk away draws or testing things like Glow plugs, Moral is make sure your test light is an old one with a conventional bulb. Or better yet use a bulb and socket with like an 1156. This will give you a true reading on a DRAW. Now the problem with the DIESEL was removing the OLD GLOW PLUG!!! RATS Now i had to show that apprentice how to do that without breaking it OFF. What a way to start a MONDAY. Thanks!!Using a test light that is designed as sensor safe will light up with a draw with a low regulator draw of a couple of Milli amps. Regulators normally draw a couple of milliamps all the time depending how you wire it. This is normal and can have you CHASING BALLOONS. Quote Selected
Alternator wires? Reply #50 – August 09, 2011, 07:13:30 AM you said you had the doors off,in the door hinge area , either force both buttons in the "in" position or remove the wire going to both.just another idea for this high of a draw.also, reconfirm, your starter relay configuration....on one side you should just have the battery cableon the other large stud you should have all your small wiring with the test light in series with the negative post and negative cableand......all small wires off one side your starter relay...You should have no draw.touch one small wire at a time to the empty side of your starter relay and tell us which wire makes your test light come back on. Quote Selected
Alternator wires? Reply #51 – August 09, 2011, 08:36:30 PM Ill see if I can do that tomorrow afternoon I'm actually getting stuff painted and lined up to go back on the car Quote Selected
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