Turbo Problems

Topic: Turbo Problems (Read 6520 times) previous topic - next topic

Turbo Problems

July 29, 2011, 01:11:33 AM

I'm new here, so I would like to start by saying hello. I have been leaching off most of these forums for a while just reading but I can't seem to find a solution and I need to learn more and what better way than people on forums. So here is the deal.

I have a 87 Thunderbird TC 2.3 Turbo on top of a BW T5 5 speed manual. It seems like I don't have an exhaust leak pre-turbo, I checked the WG and it seems to be functioning properly but I can't get my turbo to spool over 6 pounds with my MBC's and it only boosts to 15 pounds@5000rpm with the WG vacuum line unplugged. With it unplugged the turbo should be screaming maxed out at 4000rpms. It still has the factory IHI turbo with internal WG. The only mods to the car is a MBC and a 3" down pipe, 3"high flow cat, 3" to dual 2.5" Y pipe and a pair of Jones Full boar turbo tube lers. It worked fine @ 15 pounds with no exhaust and just the stock 2.25 downpipe. I checked all of my vacuum lines, no leaks. No intake leaks. There is a very slight valve cover leak and my valves need to be tightened down a little, but only because they tick, nothing to bad.

So with a BC on it's capped at 6 pounds... no BC it can boost just extremely slow. Please, any insight would help. I'm at my wits end.

Turbo Problems

Reply #1 – July 29, 2011, 08:39:07 AM

If it's not over-boosting with the WGA vacuum line disconnected, then your wastegate isn't functioning properly. It's possibly not closing all the way.

Also, the valves are not adjustable on the 2.3 (at least with the stock hydraulic HLAs), so it's unlikely you're hearing valvetrain noise. Most likely you're hearing the injectors. If it *is* valvetrain noise, you have other issues.

Turbo Problems

Reply #2 – July 29, 2011, 09:12:41 AM

It's either a wastegate issue, or a large boost leak.

Turbo Problems

Reply #3 – July 29, 2011, 03:50:23 PM

OK the waste gate does not work by Vacuum. It works with BOOST. The more boost going to the diaphragm the lower the engines BOOST. So if you disconnect the hose on the Diaphragm and you have low boost you either have a BAD turbo a bad waste gate or a big LEAK. Check to make sure the WG diaphragm mounting bolts are TIGHT. I have seen many loose and restrict the boost levels of the turbo. Just a shot in the dark. Also check the spring tension in the diaphragm. It should be very hard to move. I have seen a couple with broken springs Good luck

Turbo Problems

Reply #4 – July 29, 2011, 05:46:41 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;364258

OK the waste gate does not work by Vacuum. It works with BOOST.

Yes, we know this. If it makes you feel better. I'll call it the boost reference hose that runs to the WGA.

Turbo Problems

Reply #5 – July 29, 2011, 06:42:03 PM

If it's not over-boosting with the WGA vacuum line disconnected, then your wastegate isn't functioning properly.

I'll call it the boost reference hose that runs to the WGA.

Call it whatever you want it works on BOOST NOT VACUUM thats all i was saying.

Lets call the line the charge air side to the wastegate actuator HOSE. Thats its OFFICIAL NAME, This makes me FEEL BETTER.

Just curious was my post WRONG ????

By the way i use your products and i like them very much. No hard feelings i hope.

Turbo Problems

Reply #6 – July 29, 2011, 09:34:40 PM

Thanks for the feed back guys, I'll go over all of these tomorrow. I had the turbo off not to long ago and the shaft had no play and the turbines spun like they should. I looked over the housing and it didn't have any cracks. I didn't really look at the WG that thoroughly though so I will definitely check it out tomorrow a few hours after I get home from work. My guess would be the WG is stuck open or the actuator could be bad. I'm also going to replace the vast majority of my Vacuum/boost hoses.

On to the tick. If you are familiar with the tick that Isuzu troopers make after around 60k miles, that's what it sounds like. I know you can't "adjust" them, per say, but I'm pretty sure they have a specific torque to be tightened to and I'm hoping they're loose. I'm going to replace the entire intake gasket sets so I might as well take a look at the valves. How would I go about checking my injectors? I plan to do compression tests as well. I have only had the car for about a year and it's my daily driver, so working on it is extremely limited. I have a lot of work to do on it, so any tips and not well known but common issues would be fantastic. Thanks again for all the replies guys.

Turbo Problems

Reply #7 – July 29, 2011, 09:55:29 PM

The HLA'S are shimable not adjustable and they do not get TORQUED.

Turbo Problems

Reply #8 – July 29, 2011, 11:53:11 PM

Mischeif, you need to check that tick out as soon as you can. The stock Ford slider cam has a really nasty reputation of lobes going flat on them. You do not want to let it go, as it will start throwing metal into the motor as the lobes get worse. Ask me how I know. If you've got significant milage on your motor, inspect the cam and followers. If they've gone bad, and you're short on dollars (who isn't right now?) pick up a cheap ranger roller cam and followers and swap them in.
The little 2.3 Ford with a stock slider cam isn't very tolerant of bad valvetrain setup/tolerances.

Turbo Problems

Reply #9 – July 30, 2011, 08:41:00 AM

The ranger roller conversion is on the list of things to do. I guess it just got a priority boost. Thanks for the info.
I'll keep that in mind Tom, I didn't know that.... obviously. I'm still reletively new to these motors and just learning as I go. I have been a fan of fox bodies for a very long time.

Turbo Problems

Reply #10 – July 30, 2011, 10:50:42 AM

An update. The tick starts about 5 seconds of idling after the car is started. A family friend who also happens to be a mechanic said it sounds like a lifter. I'm going to make a vid of it today and throw it on Youtube. I'll post a link later today.

Turbo Problems

Reply #11 – July 30, 2011, 01:32:38 PM

NO problem just wanted to clear that up. Once you pull the valve cover you will see how it works. Sliders are BAD. Even years ago when the oils had loads of ZINC they went FLAT. Its important to use ONLY a ROLLER cam in a 2.3 PERIOD. Personally i would not use a Ranger Roller CAM. They are smaller than a stock cam and its power band is not very GOOD. Other than being cheap to buy i would not use one. Save up for a better cam like a 1.9 BO PORT ETC. Basically since i have been building 2.3 motors since they came out in the PINTO in 1974 they have been eating cams. And the early motors burnt pistons like CRAZY. Good Luck

Turbo Problems

Reply #12 – July 30, 2011, 04:13:19 PM

Is the ranger roller a good performance cam? Not really. It is an ecnomical choice for replacing a worn slider cam? Yes. Have people made decent power with one? Yes. Do people still use slider cams in their 2.3's? Yes. Can a quality slider cam survive when the valve train is properly set up? Yes.
My next cam will be a reground ranger roller, as I can't justify laying out $350-$400 for a cam for my daily driver/work car.

Turbo Problems

Reply #13 – July 31, 2011, 06:23:42 PM

Here, you can hear my nasty ping here.
I'm going to do the ranger cam swap for now, but this will eventually become a project toy. I truly love this car and want to restore it. If you care to give a listen and let me know, the exhaust sounds great, I'll put a vid up of the exhaust shortly.

Turbo Problems

Reply #14 – July 31, 2011, 06:46:00 PM

The exhaust. You can still hear the tick, but considering that it's a stock engine it sounds pretty good. It kills me that my turbo isn't spooling up though. Perhaps this will also help some one tell me what's wrong? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZiCdWKitHI